I am working on a "new to me" 1914 Touring. I want it to be safe, reliable, and true to 1914. A solid driver, not a fine point car.
The wheels are in pretty bad shape, so I have removed the hubs and would like to have a new set made (likely Stutzman). Possibly with a fresh set of rims too.
The front hubs are a mix match. Driver side has roller bearing on the outside, and ball bearing on the inside. The passenger side is ball bearing inner and outer. The threads for the hub caps are longer on the driver side. The race for the ball bearings are still on the spindles (which will get new bushings too). I have read some of the posts on the pros and cons of roller bearings and the procedure to swap them if needed.
Lots of pictures here:
If I go ahead with new wheels, there are a few options to consider for the hubs- use the mixed hubs as is, swap to roller bearing and use existing hubs, match the set with the correct 14 hubs, all new hubs($$). Any recommendations on best approach?
I have run original ball bearings since about 1975 with no problems. Your front hub with a lot of threads for the hubcap is the correct style for a 1914. The other hub is later. I also think that most cars came with a speedometer gear ring on the right side. A nice early hub is getting hard to come by. Lots are worn or cracked.
I don't believe front hubs came in left and right versions. All had the speedometer gear ring and the three holes for gear mounting screws. When I had new front wheels made for my 1915 I cheated and used 1917-1918 hubs, for two reasons. They still have the speedometer gear ring and holes, and they are "beefier" so I could make bearing removal notches in them and use Timken bearings. As Verne says, some people still use the ball bearings and have no trouble with them. But some of the parts for those are becoming increasingly difficult to find, so I decided to go with Timkens.
I like the idea of the 1917-18 hubs.
Only the very late '14s would have provisions for the speedometer gear.
I like to have the roller bearings in all my cars. That way if I happen to have a wheel or tire issue, I can swap an entire wheel assembly from another car to get from point A to point B. Fortunately for you, your earlier hub already has the roller bearing on the outside. Be sure to carefully inspect all the hubs for cracks.
You can turn down the outside of the later front wheel hub to mimic the 1914 hub. Leave the threaded area along, then turn down the difference so the hubs match. There will be no threads there, the hub will just screw on farther so the wheel will look right.
: ^ )
Those are excellent close up photos but what is the piece of wood and what is the "roller"in the notch ?
Lowell, the wood shows how high the back side of the cup will be. The bar shows where a punch will fit in the notch to knock out the cup.