I guess I'll be the one to start this thread, since I just spent HOURS polishing these lamps! Someone had put on some kind of lacquer to preserve the brass, but man, was it difficult to get off! But I think the results were worth it!
I am envious. What a nice job.
Put on the new seat covers.
Made by a seamstress friend from two old wool army blankets.
Thanks for the compliments! My aching fingers and hands appreciate it. I also refinished my original JB coil box and put all new posts on. I actually finished this job in January but I didn't get a chance to put it on last months post.
Took my T for a ride
Bill, if you have any other lamps that are coated try acetone. I have the same lamps and found it impossible to get to all the nooks and crannies so I bought a few few quarts of acetone and soaked the lamps in them. Works great on lacquer but takes a bit longer on other types of coatings that are baked on. Keep the acetone in a well sealed glass container and it can be used over and over again.
Val, will the acetone mess up the coating on the reflector? I still have the tail lamp to do and if that makes life easier, then I'm all for it!
And how long do you let them soak?
nothing as hard but I did repaint the 4 wheels for my T pickup project and painted the underside of the chassis and such.Found a loose item on the steering and tightened it. Cleaned,sanded and painted windsheild frames today. I will try to figure out the turn signal wiring and such tommorow and saterday. Then it will be sand and paint the fenders and splash aprons. Then finish the body. I want to finish alot of this in Febuary. IF I don't get bogged down in more lawnmower work. This last job was supposed to be a simple service on the hydro's but the engine locked down and I had to swap out engines.
I put my side, lifter covers back on. I went and talked to my local upholsterer , again, about installing our seat backs and top.
Then I worked on my '55 Studebaker truck some.
Took the Roadster out for a six mile run up the creek to heat the motor up after putting the head back on so I can do a re-torque. This is the motor I put the thread repair on. It was cold so the road was good crunchy ice. Only a few snow squalls.
I got my new seat springs, custom made, from Snyder's yesterday and put them on the wooden seat frame for my 1910 T. I had a full set of originals from the rear seat, so I sent one to Snyder's for a pattern and they did a great job duplicating a set for the front seat.
Bill, will those springs be tied to each other, either with twine or metal clips?
Yes, I have a local guy who does upholstery and he can tie them all together. Did you do the one in your photo? If so, how complicated (it sure looks complicated!) was it?
No, that's just a pic I grabbed off the web.
Here are a couple of sites with instructions:
A friend of mine, Jeff Kern, aka the lurker, asked if I could post these photos of him driving his 1927 "Electricians" 2 door in the snow today. If you're curious about where that name comes from, you need to ask him!
We attended a swap meet and found a matching set of YOM 1920 Colorado plates for our center door. Really excited about finding a matched set as I believe this was the first year Colorado required two plates on vehicles and supplied embossed stamped plate to go with the cut and welded number plate.
Original Condition. Going to keep them that way. I'll seal them somehow to prevent rust.
Drove it to work yesterday. Seems that it’s always ready to go somewhere.
Getting ready to pull the engine on the 1913
It's going to get a new counter balanced crankshaft, new alum pistons and one of Chafins camshafts plus who knows what else.
Getting a new firewall too.
My engine developed a main knock so I am ripping it apart. Just started taking the engine out of the car today. I think it is going to need a pour and bore.
Yesterday (Sat) put a Simmons together and test ran on the 25. Ran ok but the idle was poop. I was reading something this AM (Sun) and thought DUH! I forgot to put a plug in the heater connection hole. LOL So I took it off and tapped for 10-32 screw. Put back on, ran a lot better. fixed the head lights, I had found the proper bulbs on Ebay, they are the correct number and have the filaments in the correct orientation. Now all I have to do is get it legal to drive, it has insurance.
I brought all my top sockets over from the freezing barn, sorted out what parts I'll have to mix to make the full set, and got started removing old rivets.
Fitted the radiator from my Fordor on my pick-up.
It's been a tough month here. In between illness and bad weather I did manage today to get my top bows finished and fitted. Now to reread all the posts about putting a top on.
Since my spark and throttle rods looked like spaghetti I thought I would rebuild the steering column on my '25and I found this and I am cursing the PO that did this and asking myself why?
at first I thought it was J.B.Weld until I started grinding on it yep it is brazed ugh! now what am I supposed to do with this? Seems like this car is giving me a lot of paper weights!
Moved my 25 to the shop for Winter Inspection.
Visited the Runabout in storage yesterday. It is the oldest car there among the 100+ others. Looked sad in primer and surfaced rust front fender. Plan to paint her and put the interior and top on later this year.
BTW of the others cars in storage only a handful of pre 1950's, mostly 60's and newer and 30% being foreign.
Sent a front wheel to Mr. Stutzman for rebuild.
When I drive my speedster with anything more than about half a tank of gas, on hard left turns the gas runs to the right and then a nice mist of gas sprays from the vent in the cap. I got tired of this, so I took my gas tank off and moved the fill hole from the side to the center. A little bondo, some paint, and it looks like it was made this way.
Seth, that was a lot of effort. We had the same problem on Ricky (our 14 Speedster) so I soldered a 1” length of fine bore tube inside the cap to cover the hole. No complaints since I did it.
Installed Lang's 6 volt turn signal kit on my 1923 Fordor. It took me awhile because I had to take my time and reread the instructions numerous times but I finally finished the job and they work fine.
Tony it was a lot harder and took a lot longer than I ever though it possibly could. I have a gas gauge cap, so there's no way to really "seal" the cap from a little gas coming out. And if I did I think I'd starve the carbs because of the vacuum that would get created. think it should be fine now though, should be able to drive like a wild man now without any gas coming through the cap.
Not much, just been driving Betsy when the weather and roads allow.
Waiting on a pedal draft deflector from Bob Bergstadt so that I can finish up the front floorboards on my 1925 Touring body. Larry Smith was kind enough to sell me four of the semi-tubular rivets that attach the pedal trim and draft deflector to the boards.
It seems like forever I've been working on a new wheel. When I did a couple of rear wheels a few years ago they were pretty straightforward and went together with no trouble. This front wheel was a different can of worms.
The hub leaned cockeyed and there was no way to straighten it.
So I made these to keep it straight.
This is supposed to be a driver, not a clown car, so I had to press the spokes out and start over.
I waxed the hub to help the spokes slip into place.
The spokes got the candle wax treatment too.
This time the wheel went together much straighter.
I found that the front hub protruded down into the press so far that I needed to set the wheel up on 2 x 4 blocks to make room for it.
Today I made a guide for drilling the holes.
It does a pretty good job of getting the holes straight.
Steve, you are an artist. Your patience and commitment to taking these pictures as you go just amazes me. Haha when I'm messing with mine, taking pictures is the last thing on my mind. I just want to fix it and make it do what I want it to. I wish I could take pics as I go like you do but I think it would make me crazy, and I'd get a fraction of what I wanted done.
With my gas tank finished, I got it back in the car and fired her up. Well. After some fussing and then realizing it's a good 60 degrees colder than the last time she ran, I opened the needles on the twin U&Js up about 1/8th of a turn, and THEN! She fired right up. She needs a bath and me to go through and check all of the nuts and bolts and oil and grease everything, but then she will be ready to ride.
Hmmm, Steve, I just pressed my front wheel and didn't have any of those particular problems you had...I used a 6 inch ShopSmith sanding disc (without the sand paper on it), it was the same hole diameter as the threaded shaft...and the disc part was flat and large enough to cover the rear of the front hub. On the other end I had a couple of 3 inch fender washers and the nut. Then pressed it just like I did for the rears and it pressed real nice and came out fine. Don't have to worry about centering, if you press it evenly...the spokes center themselves. Although I used carnuba wax and not candle wax...too much paraffin in candle wax...but carnuba is thin enough to be absorbed into the grain of the wood and still give you a nice thin lubricant to press with...spokes trued themselves up and slide in real nice.
My jig for drilling the holes for the hub bolts isn't as elaborate as yours either...it's an old spoke with a hole in it and a relief cut in to fit over the lip on the rear of the hub. Just clamp it there and drill. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Finished wheel back on the car
When I do the other side I'll post my method...it's crude, but it works...and best of all it's quick.
I was down to 1 ceiling light in the garage that I rent and had to take a break from the T to help the landlord. There are 6 light fixtures (should be 8), each holding 2 eight foot bulbs and I was down to 1 bulb working in the humid weather. That is why a lot of my photos are grainy. So, landlord and I are splitting the cost of LED bulbs, they are providing 2 more fixtures, wiring and I am converting the boxes by removing the ballasts. The rewiring instructions are dangerous in that the diagram shows connecting the black (hot) to the plunger end where you would first insert the eight foot bulb, all the while the other end is exposed. Some people change one bulb while the other bulb is lit (light switch on) which is a hazard if you were to accidentally touch the other end of the bulb that you are installing. I feel like contacting the National Electric Code people about single post eight foot LED bulbs conversions.
(Message edited by Varmint on February 09, 2018)
I've been converting my Mom's rental store to these (at $18 each, cheaper than replacing ballasts) and I hadn't thought of the hot lead on the sprung end. Thanks for the tip. Don't forget the conversion stickers that advise others to NOT put florescent bulbs in.
Installed and reamed brass bushings in spindles for the new T I am building.
Neat fixture. Do you have a dimension the drill guide is offset? Or what is the bolt circle diameter? Thanks in advance.
Pushtruck. 30 miles south of Hershey.
On LED tubes for fluoro lights, my son converted original fluoro fittings for me to take LED tubes. At the last swap meet I attended, a vendor was peddling tubes which were a direct swap, no mods needed. Don't ask me how it is done, but it sure beats the other method.
Allan from down under.
Rebuild a Heinze coil box a few coils and painted a few spokes to rebuild the wheels of my 1926 touring. I will mount Rocky brakes on it later.
Working on the body framing for the T-Go Speedster
Welded on fenders a while today.The conversion of roadster fenders to depot hack style is going to work.I just started with 2 rough fenders.
But it will work.There will be much more welding ,sanding and filling,this is just the rough start
I have worked a good bit on the project this week. The passenger side splash apron has ALOT of dings in it but since it flexes so much I was afraid to put filler in it. If a better 1 ever comes along I might swap it out.But with the wood pickup bed on it and the luggage rack I have had for 20 years finally on the running board,the dings will be "hid" from view so to speak.
The sheet metal is now black, the wiring for the rear turn signals and the brake light is routed and ready. I have the headlights off now and will put them back on with brackets under them for the front signals.The wiring for the brake light and turn signals is still a bird nest in front of the dash but wont take long to fix.I have a brake light switch that works on the brake pedal shaft out of the Snyders book.Yes, there is a solenoid for the starter.It is attached to 2 of the steering column bolts.It can be removed and things put back stock with no lasting damage to the T.
That is exhaust header wrap on the exhaust pipe to reduce heat rising up into the body and such and it seems to help with "noise" somewhat.it made a difference,don't know exactly how.
The tool box is painted with a hammer finish black.I wish it was "blacker" I would strongly consider painting the sheet metal with hammer finish paint to hide dings and defects.
I have not worked on the wood body for a while now.I have been working to finish up the running gear.
I want all the wires run,all the painting done,when the body goes on and i finish the floorboards,I want the rest to be ready.
Trying to figure out where to mount the horn without taking a head bolt loose.It will probably wind up under the left fender.It will have a relay as I don't trust the horn button to handle the current.
Wayne, I didn't measure the offset. I just made the fixture to fit the hub. A piece of half inch pipe drilled out to 5/8" goes on the all thread. A piece of quarter inch drilled out to 23/64" went on a 23/64" bit stuck in one of the holes. Then I clamped on the cross piece, made sure everything was square, and welded it. After the holes are drilled 23/64" I run a 3/8" bit through them.
Cold rainy day so body work sounded like a great Idea. Right front fender on my 1927 Touring rotted away from the running board.
Made new piece and cut jagged, rotted edge back
Welded new piece to fender. Now have to remove the fender to do the body work and paint.
That is a very interesting motor in your speedster project. It looks like a model A or later bell housing and transmission, and a billet CNC'd head and oil pan. Did you make all of that?
Mike, beautiful job. You certainly are a man of many talents.
Nice job on the fender. Bill
Thanks guys, positive encouragement always helps when you are attending the school of hard knocks; Learn by doing.
That is the T-Go OHC head and a Frontenac Pan and Flywheel Housing I picked up quite a few years ago. I bought the patterns and rights to them in 2011. Hopefully I'll finally have the rocker arm head engine running late this month or next.
the photo is the A/T torque tube. I made a two piece drive shaft so I can swap between the OHC with the A transmission and the rocker arm head with a T tranny. Just swap the tube and front shaft.
Looks like nice work Marc. I'd like to see more pictures as the progress continues.
I media blasted some parts for my speedster project.
I finished my new wheel and made a web page about it.
I drove my 1923 Touring to the Kansas City Automotive Museum where it will be on display thru February for Ford Model T month.
am preparing items for Chickasha Swapmeet , re-babbitted 25 ball caps and will bore to dimensions that are typical of normal wear conditions ...also will finish another run of front cover locators and main and rod bearing molds and am gathering misc. spares including various model T and model A distributors ...see you all at Chickasha ...always an optimist...gene french
Gene, I gather the ball caps on the left are how they look after pouring. Why so much material?
the ball caps on the left are the poured Babbitt before machining ...the way I made the core and gate on the mold it is difficult to see where the level of Babbitt is at until nearly overflowing ...this is about 3/8" more than needed ...usually stop about 1/8" past the end of the steel bearing raceway ...the vent is difficult to look thru and would be much like looking into a gun barrel during the pouring operation ...the picture on the right is a simple faceplate fixture to hold and position the ballcap for machining ...always an optimist...gene french
Finally finished putting the leather upholstery from Classtique on my two seat bottoms; now it's on to the rear axle!
I spent some time rebuilding my steering column. New frame bracket bushing and felt, new control levers, control rods, and tensioner springs, plus a fresh coat of paint. Thanks to another member, I found a nickled gear case and cover. The only thing left is to adjust the timer linkage since all the slop is gone and touch up the acorn nut on the steering wheel.
(Message edited by Jrspada4 on February 15, 2018)
Ah poop! RE my Poormans RAJO adapter plate. Should have used the 7/16 bolts (used the 1/2 13) to mount the head so I could position it to clear the push rod holes and just found this AM, the rocker arms are the early pre 28 ones. All is not lost, just another engineering project to think thru.
Can you Heli-Coil them back down to 7/16?
Pulled the rear wheels on my '13, to begin a rear axle overhaul, got my "period correct" chain hoist rigged on the "swing set". We'll see how far I can get this weekend!
first I replaced this
I think the teeth are a schosh-mite beyond filing
then since I wasn't having any luck finding top irons I thought I would see how this would work
not as good as I hoped but I think it will work
Rich - your "swingset" photo was just what I needed... my parking area is all gravel, so a cherry picker with those little caster wheels won't work... heck of an idea, thanks!!!
Finally finished the dash on my 1910 T! Now I just have to put the rest of the car back together!
Wow, that's automotive jewelry!
Thanks, Mark. I love the look of the brass on the red dash, but I don't love the polishing part!
Bill Elliot, That is such beautiful work it makes me want to build one. How inspiring to see the pictures. I guess I should go out and polish my own but it is more fun to see what you have accomplished.
Thanks, Richard! I didn't really want to rebuild another car. When I bought this 1910, I thought it was more or less complete. That's not how it turned out so regardless of what was, now that I'm starting to see some results, I'm happy to be doing it one more time! I can't wait to have her on the road again. Anyone can pay a small bankroll and have a museum quality car ready for the road, but there's pride in doing it yourself, as most on this forum can agree.
I acquired a pedal slot draft deflector from Larry Smith for my 1925 touring body. It is a one year only feature that is narrower than the "improved car" deflector sold by the vendors, see the side-by-side picture below. The deflector is attached to the bottom of the forward-most front floor board with four semi-tubular rivets.
Winter project Over the last 2 months I have spent 250.00 dollars and acquired 3 tail lamps and a side lamp,now the fun begins I hope to get 2 good tail lamps and the side lamp is not bad I will clean it up. I will either have some nice lamps or I will be shopping for more. Cheers Colin
took a rusty throttle/spark Quadrant sandblasted re-filed the notches I think it is good enough for a driver now.
I sent a front wheel off to Mr. Stutzman for rebuilding about a week ago. -That's not real interesting compared to what the rest of you guys are doing, but it's allz I gotz. -I plan to stain and varnish it. -That'll be three down and one to go.
I did some more work on my adapter plate. I followed the plans and everything was layed out correctly the only change I made was going with 1/2-13 mounting holes for the head. I think this was a wrong move, the plans called for 7/16". 1st the threads in the holes are way sloppy, could have been the tap used. At this point it's going to be a fight to get the push rods fitted and lined up with the rocker arms, the Chevrolet head is covering about 1/2 the hole in the adapter for the push rods. If I keep the 1/2" I am going to install heli-coils if I go with the 7/16 it will have to be something like the quick serts but would allow the head to be moved over for better alignment. If I go with the 1/2" I will have to do some grinding and use 2 piece push rods. I am not going to do anything to the block that can't be put back with out a lot of work, so it has to say as is.
I got a set of Dunn type diamond crank counter weights that I ws going to use on the 21 but after reading up on them;
At best they are a very poor fit. They look like copies of copies. There is not much diamond in the area where is should be. (They are the diamond style) They do not look that old, have no name just a number that is hard to read. Has anyone redesigned and made them for the market at the proper weight for when (is that just about everyone!) aluminum pistons are used? Each of the 4 counter weights are approx 3Lb and 11-13 oz. Which after reading above, should be more in the suggested 2 to 2 1/2 pound range.
I have been doing some work on my '25 gow job, I disassembled the front axle I had sitting behind the garage. The axle was decent, but everything else attached was very rough.
I think I can salvage the leaf spring, but it has a couple leafs that are really rough. It was a 8 leaf spring, so not sure what it came off of. the second leaf from the top broke upon disassembly, but that my not be a big deal. Just trying to decide if I want to really use it and spend money getting it blasted or relegate it to doodlebug material.
The perches had to come out as the were not pointed right and were seized in. One is salvageable, the other ,again, might be at best doodlebug material, so add two of those to the list also.
The shackles are pure junk, but I think I might have a decent set.
Also attempting to straighten my Model A wheels I am using, I have been working on one, and it is not going that great. I have about .160" wobble in it, it seems to be bent in a couple spots. I have been trying to shrink the spokes by heating and quenching, but it seems to actually stretch them slightly.