building a rear end with floating hubs. i read a heated post from the past on locking the hubs in the axle tube or letting it float with a screw not bottomed out in the groove. i made the hubs so no
mfg instructions to go by. what is the general practice? thanks philip
The general practice is to argue.
I've never seen a failure from locking them solid- everything is steel in there so it all moves together with temperature variation. On the other hand, if you break an axle, how far do you think you are going to coast before you stop?
Unless you're doing a Joey Chitwood and are up on two wheels, the weight of the car is going to keep the spud in place until you stop.
It really comes down to a belt and suspenders issue if you stop and think about it a little.
If you lock them solid, you might have to replace the bearings after about 20 years.
I'm sure there are other opinions out there.
My "factory" floating hubs are not locked. There is a bolt using the grease hole in the axle to act as a stop to keep the assembly from moving out. The bolt enters a groove machined in the hub body. It's not tight but the hub can't get by.
I believe that if you were to lock them solid with a bolt through the grease hole, you could possibly distort the o rings and cause an oil leak.
Some additional thoughts about locking the hub or not. You need to read through the post till the end. Enjoy
Just a thought regarding Joe's locknut design- yes it provides a 100% retainable assembly while the downside is the amount of axial real estate it consumes. A similar solution taking much less space would be to replace the locknut with a spiralock ring. This would still take some room , but much less than the lock nut.
Although I donít believe the sleeve would rotate within the diff housing I have set it up that the locking bolt goes through the sleeve in a drilled hole that is a couple of sizes larger than the bolt diameter.
The bolt in conjunction with the o rings and weight of the vehicle now acts as a ďanti rotation deviceĒ as well as not allowing the sleeve to move outwards in the event you break a axle.
Over kill for sure as I donít believe the sleeve has moved even the slightest amount.
having the hole slightly larger also assists with installation and gives the axle a slight amount of endfloat
Just my may of doing it which has been very successful
Alan in Western Australia
That makes sense Alan and is likely the best idea
I've heard yet. I also designed my hub so that the bearing is held on the stub shaft. Philip