Friction in drivetrain

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Friction in drivetrain
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 11:40 am:

After setting up for a few years, I am ready to start my 26 sedan equipped with a Texas T Sure Stop brake kit. The driveline has so much drag to it that when my cousin and I pulled it with another vehicle, the engine turned over even with the plugs in. I was careful to make sure that the E brake lever was straight up in the neutral position. Could the brake calipers be sticking against the rotors due to lack of recent use?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 11:51 am:

If the brakes were sticking the engine would not turn over and the rear wheels would not rotate and just drag. With the clutch in neutral there is still drag in the disk esp with cold oil, so the engine will turn over. The T engine is so low in compression anyway that just having the plugs in will not prevent it's rotation.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Mills_Cherry Hill NJ on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 12:13 pm:

Terry,

Id suspect gooey trans plates first based on what you describe. I see it often enough in cars Ive been asked to bring out of deep storage.

My usual course of action it to determine with stick back can I lock the drums or at least cause very severe drag. Proving that, I put the rear axle up on jack stands, chock the fronts good and then I put the stick full forward and find a way to get the car to run. Let it get limber for a bit.

Then pull the stick back slowly until it tries to stall and throw it forward to gain renewed momentum. Do that a few times until it almost works. Then I get aggressive. I let it build rev and yank the stick to full back. It may stall a few times but perserverance usually wins and it sure beats the heck out of pulling the engine and finding just cleaning plates was all that was needed.

Once everything is free and I can turn the rear wheels with almost no drag and stick vertical, drain the oil, make up a slosh with ATF and then drain that. New fresh oil, drop it off the jack stands and it then more often than not behaves as it should.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 03:50 pm:

Either drag in clutch disks (most likely) or low or reverse bands too tight. You can try adjusting for free neutral (even then it is not completely free, but should not turn the engine when pushed or towed).

When you have the car jacked up and the brake off, you will find that one wheel will turn freely forward as the other one turns freely backward. If you jack up just one wheel you will be turning the driveshaft.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 06:51 pm:

Before trying to move the car, I had left the brake lever all the way forward for several days to try to force as much as much oil as possible from between the clutch plates. That didn't seem to work. I guess when I try again, I'll have to raise the back; set jack stands under the rear axle; and have a good, strong battery handy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 07:13 pm:

Put the leaver all the way forward, scotch the front wheels, raise both rear wheels and put jack stands under the rear end. Start the car, let it warm up and play with the leaver until the motor stays running and the rear wheels stop turning. You got to have fair rear brakes or find neutral and use the transmission break. Try very hard not to get dead or injured in the process.


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