Hesitant to bring this topic up because Ive already completed this work and hoping I havent damaged anything. Recently bought a beautiful 1916 touring for next to nothing and after changing water, oil, and fuel it started and ran strong after 2 cranks. Drove it and then saw that the high gear wouldnt engage. A week later my buddy and I pulled the engine to remove the clutch and found that the previous "tinkerer" replaced the flanged 1916 brake disc bushing with a later unflanged bushing. They did not install the required 3 washers to get a neutral and a high gear. Thats all fixed (hopefully) but when going to put the oil pan bolts back in it was discovered most were stripped. Theory is that since someone had used lock washers instead of cotter pins, the threads vibrated to death over time. I then go to find a replacement set for a car without a starter and ended up having snyders piece a set together. (30) 1.25" 3/8-24 and then appropriate amount of 1" 3/8-24 blind bolts. The 1.25 came with the hole drilled but when i went to install i had to use all my might to tighten them to expose the cotter pin hole past the nut. opened up the hole just a bit on a drill press and was only using a socket wrench to tighten. I know they didnt have torque values back then but have i damaged the pan/block interface? Im extremely new to Model Ts and even auto work. Also it seemed that on the transmission cover the cotter pin holes were too high so although tight, the cotter pins in some cases clear the castle nut
If you have lock washers, then cotter pins isn't really needed for the pan bolts. I kind of doubt the lock washers caused the stripped threads. If you use cotter pins, then maybe you can't use any washer - maybe that's why the hole isn't showing through the slots in the nut?
I doubt that you caused any permanent damage. Next time, if you feel that you are having to over-torque the nut to get the hole line up, just remove the nut and grind just a bit off the back of the nut so that the hole lines up at a reasonable torque.
Likewise, if the cotter pin sits above the nut castellations, either get a shorter drilled bolt, or put a plain washer under the nut so that the cotter pin will sit in the castellations.
Kyle- given you added in the three thrust washers in the transmission, did you check the end thrust after you installed and tightened the clutch hub into place? Hopefully this was done and you had about .015" end play.
For a driver car I only use lock washers and original bolts/nuts. One thing I have found, even after getting things nice and snug things have a habit of seating in and the bolts need to be tighten up some after the car has been run a while. This would be a pain to do if cotter pins are used. Could have something to do with the gasket material used today for the pan gasket. I do use the wire and cotter pins where the u-joint cap attaches. Don't forget to wire the radius rod studs.
Oh, any bolt that goes into the interior of the engine like the front cover, don't use cotter pins and add a little sealer to the threads. Same with the inspection cover on the pan, no lock washers. Reason is, the slit is a good place for oil to migrate out of the engine.
Roger- Im not using lock washers anymore. Just cotter pins. They were on the car when i bought it but and replacing with what it would have had originaly since the old are stripped
Dan- Yes, measured it with a indicator on a mag base and it measure nominal in tolerance