Last Sunday I showed the car that followed me home during the night.
Today I study the way it was lowered at the front. What I found didn't make me happy.
I am looking for information about how it should be done right and make it safe. The way it is now is surely not safe and need to be redone.
A few photos in attachment.
I'm sure someone with more knowledge and experience will answer, but, what in particular do you not like about this?
I think it looks okay, personally. It still lets the frame flex and roll like it wants to, but it looks like everything is properly constrained.
In general it's probably not a bad design, but the components look very thin and very weak. Is that what has you concerned Andre?
Depending on how much drop you want, the easiest way is to buy a dropped axle.
What's weird is how the front spring got pushed forward 2" and it doesn't look like anything else was changed. Unless the wishbone was lengthened (or mounted to that under-pan crossmember, but it doesn't look like it) that should really mess up your caster angle.
As Jerry said the easiest way is to use a dropped axle. You get an additional 1-inch drop with '26/'27 spindles and another 1-inch drop with the '26/'27 front spring.
And reverse the eyes on the front spring for another inch or so
Interesting cross member by the wishbone ball
There are a few thing that do not make me happy.
- The way the sub frame, to lower the car, is build.
- The cross member is build in two parts out of 1.5mm steel plate.
- The sub frame members don't follow the top of the frame.
- I don't know how the wishbone was mounted. If it was on the cross member under the engine what about stability.
I can't change the concept (Not My car) but need to make it sure and safe and have no experience with lowering a model T
Andre, I lowered mine in a similar fashion:
Here is how I did mine. 3/16" thick wall, 2" square tubing. I used two pieces 2" long and welded them to the front rails as extensions. Then I used a 23" long piece, and i cut out one side (I cut the side out with the welded seam). That gave me a c-channel that I then welded to the extensions. This should prove to be very strong. You could add fishplates to all the joints if your a little more paranoid, but there really shouldn't be any reason to.
As far as the radius rod, I plan on splitting it and adding frame mounts on each side.
Chad, I'm planning to lower my speedster too and would appreciate some close-up photos of the way you lowered the front and rear cross members. I want to keep it as simple as possible. I plan to split the front radius rods like you mentioned, but don't want to have to tamper with (cut) the driveshaft and torque tube length. Open to your suggestions and photos.
Mike in Texas
Andre ,Just my opinion, I think the metal that modified "crossmember" is made from is to thin. I would remove all that and go with a different system,or at least build it out of stouter material.
A dropped axle,26 spindles,and maby reverse eyes on the springs will give you that same amount of drop and be safer.
I can't see how the radiator mounts with that metal that is attached to the sides of the chassis.
Mike, I PM'd you.
But suffice to say, I did shorten my wheelbase by 5 1/2". It can be done by not doing that however. I have to get more photos as I do not have them already.