How to lower a model frame to build a speedster??

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: How to lower a model frame to build a speedster??
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 01:02 pm:

Last Sunday I showed the car that followed me home during the night.

Today I study the way it was lowered at the front. What I found didn't make me happy.
I am looking for information about how it should be done right and make it safe. The way it is now is surely not safe and need to be redone.
A few photos in attachment.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 01:36 pm:

I'm sure someone with more knowledge and experience will answer, but, what in particular do you not like about this?

I think it looks okay, personally. It still lets the frame flex and roll like it wants to, but it looks like everything is properly constrained.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem S.E. Michigan on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 01:52 pm:

In general it's probably not a bad design, but the components look very thin and very weak. Is that what has you concerned Andre?

Depending on how much drop you want, the easiest way is to buy a dropped axle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 01:57 pm:

What's weird is how the front spring got pushed forward 2" and it doesn't look like anything else was changed. Unless the wishbone was lengthened (or mounted to that under-pan crossmember, but it doesn't look like it) that should really mess up your caster angle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Don A on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 01:58 pm:

As Jerry said the easiest way is to use a dropped axle. You get an additional 1-inch drop with '26/'27 spindles and another 1-inch drop with the '26/'27 front spring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 03:09 pm:

And reverse the eyes on the front spring for another inch or so


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 03:11 pm:

Interesting cross member by the wishbone ball


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 04:53 pm:

There are a few thing that do not make me happy.
- The way the sub frame, to lower the car, is build.
- The cross member is build in two parts out of 1.5mm steel plate.
- The sub frame members don't follow the top of the frame.
- I don't know how the wishbone was mounted. If it was on the cross member under the engine what about stability.

I can't change the concept (Not My car) but need to make it sure and safe and have no experience with lowering a model T

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees _____Tax Capital, NY on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 05:50 pm:

Andre, I lowered mine in a similar fashion:



Here is how I did mine. 3/16" thick wall, 2" square tubing. I used two pieces 2" long and welded them to the front rails as extensions. Then I used a 23" long piece, and i cut out one side (I cut the side out with the welded seam). That gave me a c-channel that I then welded to the extensions. This should prove to be very strong. You could add fishplates to all the joints if your a little more paranoid, but there really shouldn't be any reason to.

As far as the radius rod, I plan on splitting it and adding frame mounts on each side.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrett on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 05:58 pm:

Chad, I'm planning to lower my speedster too and would appreciate some close-up photos of the way you lowered the front and rear cross members. I want to keep it as simple as possible. I plan to split the front radius rods like you mentioned, but don't want to have to tamper with (cut) the driveshaft and torque tube length. Open to your suggestions and photos.
Thanks,
Mike in Texas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 07:23 pm:

Andre ,Just my opinion, I think the metal that modified "crossmember" is made from is to thin. I would remove all that and go with a different system,or at least build it out of stouter material.
A dropped axle,26 spindles,and maby reverse eyes on the springs will give you that same amount of drop and be safer.
I can't see how the radiator mounts with that metal that is attached to the sides of the chassis.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees _____Tax Capital, NY on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 08:24 pm:

Mike, I PM'd you.

But suffice to say, I did shorten my wheelbase by 5 1/2". It can be done by not doing that however. I have to get more photos as I do not have them already.


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