Has anyone come up with a method to seal the inside of the riveted area on the pre-15 differential cases? I suppose that this has been discussed, but I could not find it. This diff was put together in the 60's or 70's and interestingly had a bronze shim on the thrust side, but babbit on the other. Anything to save a buck, I suppose, and looking at the rest of this car, there were lots of bucks saved!
I completely disassembled our '14 riveted rear axle assembly due to leakage - "hospital" cleaned all parts involved - generous amount of sealer on the internal & external flanges - can't recall what I used, it was a number of years ago - I used button head allen bolts with Loktited nuts inside then filled the allen heads with silicone after assembly & prior to painting - hard to tell unless you stick your face down on them and it's still "bone dry" !
here's one solution
Applying sealant may help, but it does not address the real problem, there is movement between the axle tubes and the differential housing. The true solution is to take the rivets out, clean everything, apply lots of sealant between the tubes and housing, and install new rivets. The years of movement will have reduced the diameter of the old rivets and will have opened up the rivet holes. Only new rivets can fill the holes properly and only disassembly and thorough cleaning will get the new sealant where it needs to go.
Too bad the link above doesn't tell/show the whole process that Bill's project went through. He did just as I describe.
Well, I removed the rivets on my ‘14’s axle housings; cleaned the mating surfaces very, very thoroughly and made # 8 bolt heads (hex) look like rivet heads using an electric hand drill and bench grinder. Slathered some RTV sealant on the mating surfaces and installed the #8 “rivets” , washers and nuts and tightened the snot out of them. 12 Years so far and no leaks...
Kurt, when I do the job, the castings are removed from the tubes and the whole lot is hot tanked to get rid of all grease. When re-assembling, I use a Loktite, red flange sealant around the rivet circle and around the lands on the casting. The sealant is non-hardening, so retains its sealing ability rather than cracking. The diff in my 1912 van still does not leak after 27 years and 20000 miles.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
How do you make sure everything is aligned correctly during the re-riveting process?
I completely disassemble, clean and then flux. Then rivet and then solder. I believe this how Ford did it. No problems
I have a copy of the American Machinist magazine with a number of articles about auto construction from 1913-1915.
One of the pictures and the description clearly shows the Ford axle tubes being straightened before assembly. They're held in a simple horizontal fixture with a long lever, and given the old "heave ho" until they meet spec. About as simple as you can get!
I'll bet that was one worker who was always pooped at the end of his shift....
I meant "axle halves", not tubes. Sorry!
Correction on my post above......was thinking of another process, unrelated to Fords.
The machine for truing axle tubes was similar to a large lathe with a faceplate attached. The differential housing half was bolted to the faceplate with the axle tube passing through a large, U shaped device with a handwheel on top. The axle tube was rotated and the handwheel tightened, bringing the tube down until it was running true.
Sorry about my first post...hope it didn't cause anyone any heartburn!
That guy was either really tired, or was the one cat no one dared pick a bar fight with...
Or maybe it was henry's way of dealing with those "incorrigible" employees... I remember reading they would move employees around to find a suitable position for them... "You've been reassigned to the Rear Axle housing straightening department, your new boss is Brutus, he's waiting for you..."