Please explain the differences between the Fun Projects pinion bearing assemblies for the later cars... as in adjustable vs non-adjustable.
Also, is it advisable to get the new driveshaft? Mine has a shattered pinion race and the race is loose on the shaft.
Simple if the race is loose on the shaft, it's worn and the Fun Project pinion assembles will be too loose on the shaft. But take a measurement and contact them to see if it will work. Also chances are the upper bushing area is worn at the other end any way. Unless you have a lathe and stock to make your own, it might need to be cleaned up and new bushing made. This area is often overlooked when people put together a rear end.
Between the two units, I would go with the non-adjustable, it is simple to install and setup. If you are going to build things real tight and want to micro adjust the pinion depth, use the other. The paper gaskets are used if need to set depth on original and the non-adjustable.
So, since the race is loose, are you recommending a new shaft? I used the non- adjustable bearing setup on my other rear and like the way it worked out, but my shaft was fine on that one.
Another question: Any tips on getting the pinion gear off? I have a puller on it, wired shut. Keeping it on that rounded surface of the back side of the gear is challenging. I got it as tight as I could and put a little heat to the gear with a propane torch and whacked the puller bolt with a hammer. No luck yet. I'd like to get it off to get a measurement of that shaft.
I agree with everything that Mark posted. Just wanted to add that a good Ford driveshaft will present a very tight press fit with a new sleeve. If the sleeve is loose then your driveshaft is not going to work with the Fun Projects bearing but it also won't work with any of the bearings without the driveshaft being built up and ground true. Very likely cost you more than Fun Projects gets for the shaft. They are made to factory drawing on file at Fun Projects, Inc. Good used driveshafts are out there but you need to watch for wear on the pinion end of the driveshaft since you need that lower bearing to be a press fit on the shaft same as you would need the sleeve to be a press fit there when running the original Ford setup.
Thanks John. I have no problem with the $130 for a new shaft. Thank you for making these items available to us!
To clear up what I was saying about the upper bushing. Most often the area the bushing rides on is worn under sized leaving the flat area larger. Just installing a new bushing you will have too much slop because you still would have to ream to stock size to allow the flat area to go thru. If you have that area cleaned up and a new bushing off the shelf is driven in it will be somewhat crushed at the top so even if it looks to fit, that is only the top and will wear down and be a poor fit. If the other end is/was good you can have the upper part turned and polished but you would have to have a new undersized bushing made.
Thanks Mark. Am I correct that when using the Fun Projects pinion bearing set ( I'm getting the non-adjustable) that the face of the upper bushing (at the u-joint) needs to be relieved so as to let the thrust be controlled by the bearings rather than by that bushing face?
While a few might disagree, you still have to face the bushing and pin the U-joint. Pinning keeps the U-joint in the correct orientation in the ball and prevents wear to the hole in the output shaft and flat area on the new driveshaft. This is one area that I feel very strongly about after reading and thinking on the subject. Even the Model A, the U-joint is attached to the rear of the output shaft, they just switched the pinned ends.
Mark is correct the ujoint pin is important and I wish the original man who started the rumor about not pinning the ujoint would not have done that. Dave's question was about whether you need to carefully face off the upper bushing to control the end-play of the driveshaft using the back end of the ujoint against the bushing face and the answer is you need only get the face clear of the rear of the ujoint since there is zero end-play with the driveshaft position locked by the preload of the bearing at the pinion end of the driveshaft. I tell folks not to remove all of the face since it acts as a "stop" when driving in the bushing so you know when you have it installed deep enough. No precision sizing of the bushing face is needed.
Thank you John. This info is timely, RE the facing.