could someone post a picture of all the tools you need to restore a coil box with the modern plastic kit I have not received mine yet and I don,t want miss anything will there be instructions thanks bernie
Yes, instructions come with it. You'll want a small screwdriver, little wrenches or nut drivers for the terminal nuts, and solder and a soldering gun or iron. Wire strippers are handy, but a pocket knife will work. It's pretty simple.
IF you are getting the Fun Projects kit for the firewall mounted steel coilbox, you can follow the link to the instructions without waiting for your kit to arrive. The Fun Projects website has the instructions for their other kits as well.
I did mine a while ago. Like most things in life, don't be in a rush and mind the details and you'll be fine. They make a really nice kit.
You may want to get a long handled riveter rather than using the typical handheld one - unless you are sized like TV wrestler. The long handled tool makes setting the stainless rivets so easy.
You will also need a pop rivet gun for the power strip in the bottom of the box.
I had use for a Tenon saw when I did mine. There is a slot in the bottom of the backboard which goes over the folded-up lip the base plate. On trial fitting, the backboard would not go down over the lip far enough for the mounting screw holes to line up with the holes in the metal box.
The tenon saw was used to trim just a little off the inside leg on the new back panel so it could allow the panel to sit deeper in the metal box.
Others have not reported this same problem.
Allan from down under.
I have 4 coil boxes to rebuild, and I need a new soldering gun or iron, I have an old weller gun that never did work right. any suggestions on a good soldering gun or iron. Thanks Tim
I have rebuilt many coil boxes using the FunProjects wood replacement kit.
It work best to test fit the two piece assembly to the coilbox metal to ensure the coilbox metal is not bent or twisted out of shape. Repair the metal first not during final assembly, especially if painted. Obviously do this before any metal preparation for paint work is done.
To avoid trouble, get a bar of soap or block of paraffin and coat all the threads of each screw before screwing them into the material forming the holes with the steel screws AND before final installation of the brass screws. The wood replacement material is very dense and too much pressure on the small screws can result in breaking them off. At that point recovery is very difficult. Don't ask me how I know this.
I too have had the trouble Allan describes, but found that by relieving the back panel lip with a rat tail file so the screws that hold the two wood replacement pieces together will allow you to push the rear piece down over the lip by placing a block of wood on the top and tap it with a mallet to push the rear piece down over the lip and the screws into the relief made in the metal bottom lip.
I think I've asked this question before but my mind is slipping. I'm doing a 26 box and it has a small brace bar in the center. I know I can pry the tab up and take it out but how have people been putting them in? After I powder coat do you hammer it flat and touch it up with some paint. If you hammer it do you use a dolly on the back while hammering? Just want to see what others have done.
Also read the instruction carefully. Following the sequence of the steps is important to getting good final outcome.
hi thanks for the answers this is what makes the forum great now I know what to watch for thanks a lot bernie
The only thing I wish they could do is use a different material for that pop rivet.
John Regan explains the use of the stainless steel pop rivet this thread:
He writes: "Sorry guys but I hate things that rust so I won't include rivets that will eventually rust. The size of the rivet was chosen by Ford and a smaller diameter rivet will swim in the hole and not line things up correctly. On the plus side you should never have to do it again. I didn't just want to make things hard for you but ordinary soft steel rivets will rust eventually and then you have problems. My motto is "do it once - do it right". So long as the internal portion of the rivet is below the surface of the coil box liner wall and the rivet is tight you should be OK."
And later in the thread he also writes: "Using copper rivets against steel parts results in galvonic (dissimilar metal) corrosion but I also didn't want you to be able to solder to the rivet as is done originally which always causes intermittent bottom strip connection later on. Ford actually soldered the wire to one of the rivets and they are always loose and cause many of the coil box intermittent issues. Stainless is strong and never an issue once installed."
Yes Brian, that was the post I started.
Bernie, you still didn't say what year coil box your fixing up, but take the time to fit everything to the best of your ability. A long handle heavy duty pop rivet gun was almost a necessity for the stainless rivets, I bought one at Harbor Freight for around $30 I believe. A file to dress any corners of the plastic..... although you should make sure the box metal is as good and square as you can make it first.
It's a super great kit for both versions, I can tell you the 26/7 style I did from the above post sits outside 24/7 on my doodlebug since we did that post and I have had zero issues with the Patterson coils or Regan Fun Projects kit.
hi it is a 1925 roadster iam doing I forgot say that but have others to do later older and newer thanks for asking bernie
Bernie, I put that kit in my 14 and if I can do it, anybody can. Just go slow and follow the directions.
Bernie, I forgot to mention, use a solution of white vinegar and saturate it with as much salt as you can dissolve in it. Then drop in your original terminal strips. It will clean them up real nice. I usually just touch them up on a wire wheel after that.
This solution is good for cleaning alot of items, but works exceptionally well on copper / brass. Best part is it's totally safe.
About that center bar: you can make it too tight and it'll make pulling the coils a real pain. When re installing put all the coils in and back them up with a very thin spacer like credit card thickness across all 4. Slip it in behind the coils opposite the terminal side and bend your bar's tab over with it in place. Obviously remove it when done.
I've a coil box and one of John's kits that I forgot I ordered! I thought I'd put them together for the "someday" when I build l build a speedster from the parts I have. The box needs that center bar. are they available?