Ok trying figure witch drag link i should use
So need little help
With the front wheels going straight where should the pitman arm be thinking it should be straight inline with the column?
Every part is hodge podge of years
Should be, otherwise you will not have full lock going either way.
Yes, with the front wheels pointed straight ahead? The pitman arm should be pointed straight down. But remember, any changes in the geometry of the front end. lowering of chassis, changing angles of steering column, etc, will also affect that, and may require some compensation.
Bob, the advice given covers all years, but may not be entirely accurate on early cars with no stop in the steering gearcase. The limiting factor with these is the actual degree to which the spindle can turn on the kingpin before it contacts the axle. This works on either lock, so it doesn't matter if the pitman arm is vertical when the wheels are pointing straight ahead.
At least, that's what I found when building my speedster, even with its dropped axle.
Allan from down under.
Allan, that would be a problem, if the pitman arm is not centered to an even amount of turns for each lock, then there's a risk of the pitman going over centre.
You are correct Frank. It was not a problem on my speedster due to other limitations of the double wishbone and dropped axle set-up, but I can see it being a problem on a standard set-up. This is one of the reasons for the limiting groove introduced in the later gearcases.
Allan from down under.
I also have this problem of mixed parts in a speedster. My drag link is too short. Does anyone have a safe method of correcting the drag link length? I was going to remove the ends completely and replace the rod with new and correct length piece.
David, it not correct looking, but you could cut the ends off and slip them into a piece of 1/8" wall DOM tubing and weld the ends in.
This makes a very strong steering and drag link. It's great to do on snowmobile conversions and doodlebugs also to beef the steering up. I have done it before myself, but I do not remember off hand what size the tubing I used was.
Just an option that may work for you for that custom application.
That sounds good Chad. And no Iím not worried if it looks perfectly correct. If you still have my email shoot me a pic of what you ended up doing.
David, and anyone else interested in this mod. See the link below, and scroll down to my Oct 10 post from 2014 for the details.
Dave, if you need more info, email me. crazydart400 AT yahoo.com
Dave, I had the same issue drag link to short. I cut it and welded a piece in the rod under the oil pan. Drawn a scribe line on drag link from end to end so you can orient the two ends later. Cut the rod add that right length solid rod in the middle, clamp the parts in the V of an angle and welded back together. V all parts on the ends first before you weld.
I had a junk rod welded a piece to it held it in a vise and beat it with a hammer for a test. The rod bent the weld did not give up.
Dave, after your done welding smooth with a grinder, hit it with a hammer a bunch of times,paint it and you can't see that you worked on the drag link.
Awesome Chad! Thanks thatís perfect and easy!
Dave, I am pretty sure when I did the steering link that I bolted both yokes to the steering arms before I tacked them in place to the tube. Just to maintain some straightness. But I don't remember and there are several ways you really could do it.
The draglink is more of just get the length right as the socket ends ride on the balls so not as important on the straightness of the ends. Just make sure you clock them right though before final welding.
I feel comfortable with your way. And yes will likely get it all set up and marked out so both ball sockets are in good position before welding. Also when you need to build that front end of your gow job and need the spindle reamer let me know. I have only used my once and you can borrow it if needed. Also I have the split bushing driver and reamer guide.
I would rather use two drag links to make a short one longer. That way there is only one welded join and the metal is not dis-similar as it most certainly would be if adding in some rod of unknown origin.
I would make the join at one end of the rod rather than in the middle.
We lengthen tie rods the same way when making them longer to set the steering up to the Ackerman principle. These do get a length of rod in the tie rod rube so the cut ends are aligned and the join has added strength.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Since the drag link is not parallel to the ground, I believe the pitman arm should be at a right angle ( 90 degrees) to the drag link when the car is going straight ahead. This allows the same amount of rotation of the steering wheel to the right and left.
As the ball of the pitman arm is usually higher above the ground than the ball on the tie rod, the drag link slopes upward to the steering column. thus the pitman arm ball will be slightly toward the outside of the car when the wheels are straight ahead.
I expect to get a lot of "other opinions" on this!!