I plan to be checking out a 1911 and was looking for pointers on what to check as far as original parts.
Is there any common areas to highlight its a parts car etc.
What shape diff, guards etc
What model carburetor?
Any advice appreciated
i would suggest first going to the MTFCA home page and then go to the encyclopedia sections referring to the 1911 year. it will give you some basic information on details of the car. serial number of the car your looking at will be very helpful in dating the car. good luck.
You won't remember everything. Take Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia and the MTFCI Judging (Restoration) Guidelines with you.
Make sure it has the correct clamshell rear end, six or twelve rivet variety! Many of these early cars have later rear ends because the clamshell rear ends were prone to breakage. If this car doesn't have the correct rear end, plan on laying out 4 long yards of green cash - IF you can find one. It took us two years of searching.
Of course, the correct engine serial number is always nice. A 1920's engine in an early brass car should drastically affect the car's value. Those are the two main expensive components that bit us in the tutu with our 1911 project.
Oh, yes: is the speedometer correct and complete, including the cable and gears at the front wheel? Big bucks if that's missing or the wrong one.
The 1911 production year had some major changes; 6 rivet to 12 rivet rear end, open valve to close valve motor, and the first engine pan with a removable inspection plate. A true 7 rivet engine pan is hard to find, and just because it has 7 rivets on the ears doesn't mean it's original; it's fairly common for people to take an early narrow nose pan and add rivets to it to 'look' like a 7 rivet.... if there are round brazing holes in the pan ears that's an indicator of this.
Some of the hardest parts to find are the late 1911 parts made by the secondary suppliers for the year, because they were only used for a few months. The 1911 JB Coil Box is an example; that was one of the hardest parts for me to find for my late '11. Other than the engine that coil box with 5 coils, then restoring them, made it one of the most expensive parts of the car.
Due to of all of the changes it's hard to tell if you have the 'correct' parts without the build sheet. You can have a lot of correct '11 parts, then find out from your build sheet they're not correct.
By all means, get the serial number, then buy a copy of the build sheet. It will be worth the $20 investment. Then you will have a better idea of what the cars had on it when left the factory.
Be sure to look for a body number (and maker - initial) on the front seat riser and on the bottom side of the back doors.
: ^ )
Thanks guys thats a great help.
I can't get access to it yet so I will prepare in the meantime and take a heap of photos for reference later.
So besides the rear end, engine, under engine, speedo drive etc is there any other vital areas i should take a photo of?
The car does has a speedo and a clock?
I was told the cylinder head has 4 screws fitted on the drivers side above the head gasket?
Just remember digital photo's don't cost anything and you can never take enough of them.
The 4 screws on the head could/might be for priming cups.