Hi all. A week or so ago I posted a problem I had with pushing the lever forward to engage high gear. It actually pushed back with a springy feel at the time and I had to force it ... and I still had slipping. I could see that it was the brake rod that was giving it that springy feel at the time. I also questioned the clutch adjustment.
I brushed the contact and lever areas of the parking brake rods, sprayed them with lubricant and worked the brakes back and forth until they had the proper travel. It was dried salt that was gumming up the works. Itís been really cold with snow on the streets and very salty out on the roads for the past week so it kept me from giving the T a trial drive. For the past three days the temperature has risen and we had rain so now all the snow and salt has washed away.
Today it was sunny and 20 degrees and the roads are dry and clean so I drove the T for the first time since that problem. Everything working fine. Drove it for about an hour and a half around downtown Rochester and the commercial ďstrip.Ē Went to the hardware store and bought one of those collapsing garden hoses and a long wand fitting with the rose end for washing the underside of the the T in the future when there might be any residual salt under there. It can get on your car even when the roads are clear and dry this time of the year.
Thanks for the follow-up, glad it was something simple.
Road salt: the primary reason my T remains in the garage on jack stands from Late October until Later April. Also the fact that its an open car and its darn cold up here.
Right ... we donít get sub zero temperatures here in a Rochester, but itís still a mighty chilly drive in an open car in the single digits. It was in the twenties today and quite pleasant. Should be in the forties and fifties for the next few days so it will seem like spring. This is why I donít put mine up for the winter. You never know when you can shoehorn some driving time between really cold weather.
Use that salt-away stuff. Salt will make your car rust away so very quickly.
Mark, Your salt problem was what I was trying to get across in a previous post. If salt was gumming up the works on your few pieces of linkage, just think what itís doing in places you canít see or flush out. Believe me one rain will not get rid of all the salt. You will still have salt dust and if you hit a wet spot on the road you will get salt in your car. It takes a few really all day downpours to flush the salt away.Driving in the city makes it Even worse. Being in the auto body repair business I have spent my adult life seeing and repairing salt damage, I know what it does. Even if you hose it every time you take it out you won't get it all. Case in point you mentioned before that you hosed it after driving in the salt, yet you still ended up with a salt related problem. I am somewhat surprised that you work in a museum and you would be this careless with your T. Their are thousands of survivors out there, maybe the loss of another doesn't really matter.
Wow Dan ... youíre pretty rough on me for taking a couple of drives when I shouldnít have. I learned my lesson. The problem that I had actually happened a few days after driving when there was snow on the streets and more salt than I realized. I had not yet tried to wash the car at the time of the problem, but did so when I saw what was happening. Since seeing cause and effect I wonít do that again. Back when I lived in rural Pennsylvania I was spoiled that I had a place to drive that wasnít well plowed and not salted and enjoyed driving in the winter. Moving to a city has given me some challenges.
Of course I do care about my T but I also want an occasional winter drive when itís possible and safe for both car and driver. Every time you drive an antique car you take risks like owning and living with any antique. I have the car for driving, not showing or being placed on exhibit indoors. But Iíll weigh the winter risks more carefully in the future based on this experience. Itís a real pain to wash, remove rear wheels and relubricate everything underneath. The hose and wand I bought by the way was something I had actually wanted for occasional cleaning in better weather. We had a lot of rain for the past two days and roads were dry, so I felt I it was safe to test drive the car to confirm the adjustments I made. Thanks for posting your concerns.
Mark, I didn't mean to get rough on you. I was trying to get my point across as I have talked about this many times. The average person doesn't have a clue to the extent of damage that salt does on a car. I see many people out driving their old cars as soon as the roads are dry.They don't realize the damage their doing. On the newer cars that go faster you can actually see a cloud of white dust as their going by. The body on a T is especially vulnerable, because the salt will get between the wooden sills and the body, and there is no way to flush that out. A friend of mine who knows better has the attitude it will be okay in his lifetime so he doesn't care. That's not working out as his rear fenders are rusting out at the running boards
The salt in NY is horrible. I have three cars that prove the damage it does. One time I had to take a motorcycle to a local dealer for an appraisal. I had it on an open trailer, six miles each way on roads that were mostly decent and it still got corrosion damage from where it was splashed in spots. The green colored salt the municipalities have been using is even worse yet. It's not safe until a good spring downpour washes it off the roads.
Mark, you and Andrew should connect, He bought the coupe that was owned by the same guy that owned your car and knows the unusual story about both cars.
Andrew, how are you coming on the coupe? Have you been driving it yet?
The towns & cities use calcium chloride to soak down the salt once loaded on the trucks. The purposes behind this are; it keeps the salt from continuing to bounce once it hits the road and it enhances the snow melting ability of the salt. The calcium chloride also enhances the corrosion ability of the salt too! The stuff like burns and irritates your skin if you get it on you. Imagine what itís doing to our cars......
Considering how well my T is rusting where my wet clothes touched it after I went to the beach I'd say any salt is too much salt.
If Henry Fords Soybean car bodies had been put into production it would have helped with the salt problem. I would think aluminum bodies like the new ford trucks have would fare even worse than steel with salt, I live over fifty miles from the coast and have seen salt damage and corrosion on the side of a aluminum radio antenna facing the gulf 400 feet in the air.
Ford has been using aluminum hoods for years. My 06 F150 has no corrosion issues, even where there has been a chip to the bare aluminum for the past five years. I'm sure it has to do with what ever the mix of the aluminum is.
As a side note last summer my wife bought a new F150. Ford offers three sixes and one V8. The highest Horsepower is the twin turbo V six with 10 speed transmission. That's the one she got. The truck is a rocket, it's faster than my 04 F250 with a V10 and pulls my 20 ft enclosed trailer better. You can't believe how fast this truck is. Now I hope Ellen doesn't read this but there has been a few hopped up trucks that have been very surprised by this truck, you just touch it and it's gone.
Thanks Dan. I had hit a dead end on the provenance of my Ď23 runabout, but knew it was part of a pair including a coupe for sale at a used car lot at some point. Would love to know more. So, Iíll contact Andrew ....
Keeping the salt off this '97 F150 on a trip by trip basis is why it still looks like new. Which incidentally I now have for sale! PM me if ur interested.
Tried posting pic from phone but it ain't there! ;)