Is there supposed to be a washer under the nut that holds the rear wheel onto the axle ?
There is no mention of a washer in any of the catalogs, nor in the manual. But I just want to be sure.
No that was a Model A thing. It compressed the seal at the end of the hub. Model T and A's only need 100-120 FT torque on the nut. I take them to about 90 then to the next slot. Some people say 205 but that was later for the V8 axles.
Be wary of washers in that location because unless they're made of something very hard they tend to compress when the axle nut is tightened. Then next time you check the nut it seems a bit loose.
Not desirable in terms of wearing the hub and axle taper, and eventual breakage of something.
No washer is intended. Washers get added when the tapered hub bore and/or the axle taper wears, allowing the hub to go on too far and causing you to run out of threads before the nut seats against the hub.
Jerry's comment raises an interesting question:
When I took the rear wheels off this car there were axle shims on both axles. Same hubs and axles going back together now, but I'm not sure how to know if the axle shims are necessary. I can run the nuts down and not run out of threads, but is there some other indication that the shims are going to be required ? Nothing seems to be touching between wheels & brakes.
Ideally if the rear end is in good shape and nothing rubs, you don't need them.
You don't want the hub to go on so far that it makes firm contact with the seal cap. That will just wear off the cap and the hub will still not be tight on the taper. I just had this happen. Hub was loose, brake drum full of grease. I think I will measure the depth of the hub and mark the axle so I will know for sure how far it slides on. Use shims if needed to keep hub off the seal.
Some times, if you install Rocky Mountain Brakes and keep the parking brake, you will have a drum inside a drum. But the hub is still in the same place on the axle. In that case, your parking brake drum might hit the bolts inside the backing plate, or the outer seal. Or it might be too close to the edges of the brake shoes. You would then either need longer axles or shims.
OK, got it. Thanks for the replies.
I did temporarily install the wheels without keys, spin the wheels some while adjusting external brakes, then remove the wheels. Didn't see any rub marks on the outer seals or the hub. I don't have any inside brakes, so no problem hitting the hub nuts.
Be sure and tighten the hubs, many are not tight enough causing the key and shaft to ware, On mine I have to use the shims (two on each side) and I also use a high quality washer to take up for ware, axles are easy to replace, but the hubs are much more expensive. The nut and cotter key is a good indicator of ware.