I can't for the life of me find the thread,if I started 1 in 2018 for my project so here goes again. :0
Anyhow,I got stumped a while back on tailgate latches. It finally came to me the other day how to do it so yesterday I drew a sketch so i wouldn't forget and today i made them. works good actually. The idea is to lift both latches at the same time to open, then just give the tailgate a lift and "clic" it latches it's self. I still have some tweeking but it works 98 % of the time already.
Got some more hardware holes drilled today to.
Latches don't look bad to be made from a brace from a old fuel oil drum stand.Bolts will be cut to length when i get ready to do final assembly.
A unique way to do it, looking forward to seeing the final results of your project.
I have seen a couple early trucks done that way. I think it is one of the best "easiest" ways to build. Yours looks perfect! (Except for the bolts you haven't cut off yet.)
Here's what I did. You can close the tailgate by pushing it closed
Looking good. Looks like you're headed down the right road. Be sure you strip off any plating before you paint the hardware.
Hal,i like your setup as well. neat and easy~
Simple and effective. :-)
Mack, I made all of the metal stuff from stock purchased at Ace Hardware. The latch is what we used on the farm when I was a kid. Here's a broader view. I assembled the car from excess parts I had laying around...have enough for another. The picture was taken before painting and varnishing. I made the box out of Birch. I like your latch too. Ingenuity is the name of the game.
Hal- love your tailgate latch setup. I'm doing that on my next box.
Hal,may I see more of your windshield mounting setup?
I'll have to take some pictures Monday. I used angle iron after making the firewall to the width of the windshield.
Without going on a long rant,creativity and ingenuity are as worthy of preservation as our T's.
I looked at the list of hardware that came with the plans and decided I would make the hardware.It is NOT a savings of alot of cash in the big scheme of things. About 125 would have bought the hardware.To me it is the challenge of making it.
I bought some windshield brackets,and after looking at some other T's and getting some help here as well,I am just reconsidering how I want to mount the windshield. Look at some different setups and maby come up with something that won't distract from the T but would be different and foremost,sturdy. I am concerned about hauling the T on my open trailer with so little windshield support as I see on some cars.
If I knew this speedster was going to turn out as it did I would have taken more time to make it prettier. My windshield setup will withstand a good bit of pressure. I'll take a bunch of pics Monday and maybe U can pick up an idea or two from what I did. I also use an open trailer. Cheers.
That's really looking good Mack, I couldn't find your other post either . It showed your rear fenders, hacking them into shape. I did the same thing on my project, 35 dollar pair of fenders from a swap meet . Bed hardware looks really nice, I'm making everything I can too. Mine is probably made from a hundred different T's, nothing wrong with bitsa cars! JD
Nope,nothing wrong with a bitsa car at all. It is no different than making payments on 1 except the repo man don't show up to get it if you miss a payment. It just sits and waits till you work on it or buy more parts.
In regards to the project,I had made the hand rails,grab rails,whatever you call them for the sides of the seat back in November. thought I was done.
I cut the seat plywood exactly to the size in the plans. Well I put the seat in and tried to fit in the rails. Basically part of them was going to rub a spot into my seat cushion. So I am having to rework their design a bit.I am also going to move some brackets that support the seat back to the inside of the bed from inside of the seat-tank area for the same reason. i will be threading the holes in the grab rail brackets so i can do without nuts that might rub the cushion as well.
In redesigning the grab rails I am also going working on a design to make their height adjustable as I may want a arm prop as I drive.
(Message edited by tdump on February 26, 2018)
Hey Mack! I agree with you about bitsa Ts. The more of them put back onto the road to be seen and enjoyed, the better. I also like your comparison to the time payment plan!
Your truck is looking really good.
Mack & Hal - I have a similar tailgate latch on my '23 roadster/pickup and also on the tailgate on the little matching trailer. Mine works great, except that on two separate occasions, someone, unknown to me, just had to try out one of the tailgate latches to see how it worked, and inadvertently "yanked" on the latch too hard, and bent it so far that it (as an engineer would say) exceeded the "modulas of elasticity" !!! (....love that kinda' talk,....) In other words, some big duffas bent it so far that it would not spring back to it's original position to hold the tailgate closed. Therefore, on both separate occasions, I had to take the latch off and straighten it. After the second time, I made a little "hook" by bending a little short piece of the same size strap iron 90 deg, and installed it near the working end of the latch so as to limit the distance it could be bent to allow opening the tailgate. Now, some "gorilla" walking by the car (or trailer) who just can't resist yanking on the latch to see how it works, won't be able to bend it too far so as to damage it! Trust me guys,.....it'll happen, sooner or later,..... FWIW,..... harold
Well,no more dreading the cost of kerosene light side mounting brackets.
I had been pondering how to make them for a while now and when i stumbled over a big steel ball the other day,it all came together.
So today with 2 pieces of flat plate,a torch,a hammer,a big steel ball,plasma cutter and drill press and grinder,I have side mount light brackets.
I held the plate steel with a pair of vise grips, had the torch lightly clamped in a second vice,the ball was in the big vice. I heated a large area of the steel plate red and then pounded on it with the hammer. I used a drill bit to counter sink 2 holes in the bracket for the little round things to go into to prevent the light from spinning. Yep,still need to cut the bolts off.
They are slightly different from each other as it is hard to hand make something using a paint can to trace out a radius and such as that.But they are similar enough the naked eye aint going to know the difference.
My dad ask me why I was using a cannon ball for a anvil.I didn't know it was a cannon ball. So I guess I will photo it sometime and ask somewhere here on the net if it is a cannon ball or not.
Any how, when I am done, the windshield braces will be bolted to a bracket attached to the bolts holding the side light brackets on.Instead of to the floor.I am afraid as big as I am the rods going all the way down will get in the way.
IF this idea does not pan out,I can always go with plan B which would be rods to the floor.
Good on ya', Mack!
Thanks for sharing ,nice job!!
Light and strong just like Henry would like.
That lamp bracket looks really nice.
Mmmm, very nice lookin' lamp too. :-)
That is actually the worst of the 3 I have that are painted at all.I have several but some are rough. The other 2 are in better shape but the burner in this 1 is like new.
I might look at the led conversion and if I go that route I will paint up some of the other 1's I have that the burners are not good in.
Well here is what I came up with for a windshield brace.It is 1 inch by 1/8th I think metal.Fuel oil tank x bracing in it's former life
It seems to be steady. Opinions? As I said above I thought I would try something like this instead of a rod to the floor.
Also you can see the finished grab rail,arm rest I made instead of the round bar 1.A padded armrest will be attached to the flat top of the railing.
I got the bolts all cut off to length.
I have still got to play with the tailgate latches a bit and figure out light mounting on the rear.
But it has come along way from a bunch of boards and metal.
Since each piece of metal is made to fit each spot,I will be removing each piece separate,and will stamp a mark on a portion that will be covered when assembled with a letter stamp and hammer.This way all the pieces will go back exactly as they are.
Mack, I am not sure if they were used often or if you are trying to be original but the style of carriage bolt you are using for the side lights (and I assume other places) is what was used on most of my TT truck's assembly.
Anyways, its looking great, and you are sure making me glad that someone else made my brackets 93 years ago, that's a lot of work!
It sure is looking good!!
1 of the fellows in the local club i am in gave me about 140 of those bolts and yep,all the bolts are like those in the light mount.They have a anchor on the top, like a boat anchor.I guess it must be part of a brand name or something.
Making the brackets has been a challenge but in the end I am glad i did it. My next projects will be easier.
If I live long enough,I might build another TT and I have all the hardware for it.Copied some of it making this hardware on the back.
Looking good, Mack C, Look-ing GOOD!
Ok this is the best I could figure out for light placement.
It bugs me the turn signal is chrome a bit,rather it was black or polished out to brass but it was nos when i got it.so I don't want to ruin it.
The tail light,I am having trouble understanding something on it but you can see where it will mount.The little Monarch stop light is cute. I have a brake light switch on the starter bendix cover to operate the light.
I need to understand more about these taillights.
The 1 on the left I had on the T and had used a hose clamp to hold everything in the housing and it worked. the other 1,is missing the connector for the wires.
Is the rusty steel around the brass socket broke off of another taillight housing or what?
well I ordered a connector I hope will fit the right taillight and will go from there on it.
Last night and today I took everything off the body and I got the metal work all painted and the first coat of spar varnish on a few loose boards.
Looks great. Can't wait to see it with wheels under it
Mack, the black tail light with the missing bulb holder gives you a head start on making a matched pair of lights with side windows pointing in each direction. Just weld/solder/close up the hole you have and drill another opposite that and fit the bulb holder in that.
Allan from down under.
Mack, Here are closer looks at the windshields that I promised a few weeks ago. The brace for the red one goes to the floor. On the white one I used angle iron up the firewall with holes to match the mounting holes on the windshield. Your rig looks great...ain't it fun??
Mack, I have been following your progress all along and I am very impressed. One thing that I will suggest is using that Stop light that you have mounted on the lower left rear as a third brake light mounted in the center of the rear window. I have one just like that and I am going to mount it in the rear window on our '25 coupe. Great job on your project!! Dave
LOL, I don't think he's planning on a rear window in his open express However, point taken
Uh,rear window is uh,oops,I forgot to put that in there!
First coat of Grey Seal Kurfees Guardswood spar varnish has been applied. It is clear gloss.But,it was bought for a project of my dads and it was just sitting,so he said use it.Saved 60 bucks and there will be enough left for his project even after this is done.
Dropped off the windshield frames yesterday.Hal Davis had given me some original glass for a sample and the company that did his had the measurements on a paper.So I took that,a original glass and frame assembled so the fellow could see what it should look like and the bare painted frames and brass strip. I will know what it looks like when i git it back.Some folks tell me the brass can't be used with new glass, he says it can, I told him to mount it so if it breaks,it is on his dime!
Looking great Mack! Im with Gary S. Cant wait to see it all together. My project has had to wait because of work. Owning a business is great....
My boss wont let me work on it when I want to. I can get my progress fix by watching you and others.
I can't wait to see wheels on it either! It is about 6 foot from them at the moment!
I tell ye,I had no idea how much time it would take,but money wise,it has been much more affordable than buying a ready made kit.And I have learned some things, relearned others.
Well,a good bit of work to go yet but, it looks more like a T now.
Would you believe I had put this body on a 1920 chassis,mounted the brackets and such and thought it would be a direct fit to my running chassis. He-- no! brackets were all to far back a 1/4 inch,I filed the 1/2 holes back a bit to take the bolt and all fits now.
Like I say,along ways to go till done,but it looks a bit more like a vehicle than a bunch of parts.
I need some one to show me how the leather hood protector tips fit on the hood,The stuff on the paper that comes with them may as well be in Zambezi as I can't figure out how to make them fit.I would rather glue them. I read somewhere on here how to do it 1 time can't find that page.
Looks really good Mack. Looks like you will be driving it soon.
Wow, Looks great. Just in time for the nice weather.
WOW Mack, that looks awesome !! Love the wires and wide whites too
Drove it about 6 miles today.
It has been a couple years since I drove it.
I have got to sit down and figure out how to describe a minor problem with high gear.The notches catch, but when i push in the low pedal,the lever comes back a couple clics. In looking for a problem,I notice my brake rods put pressure on the lever when it is all the way to high? Do I need to sit down and read the high gear adjustment again? Perhaps the brakes are to tight? Which it will roll unless the lever is all the way back. Confused.
The pickup rolls along fine down the road.It don't swerve and wobble-wander but the steering seems VERY sensitive,as in a slight turn of the wheel and it would start to turn hard it seems.I know I don't have much play in the steering.
Common problem. Try shortening your brake rods just enough so that they allow the brake lever to stay fully forward in high gear.
If you haven't driven the car in a couple of years, the standard 4:1 steering ratio might seem fast compared to what you're used to. Still worthwhile to look everything over carefully to make sure everything is tight and cotter pinned. Also check to make sure that the pitman arm doesn't go "over center" at full steering lock (check both directions).
thanks. I have the cotter pins everywhere in the steering and I had my dad wiggle the steering wheel while it was jacked up and so far I have found no play in anything.I am going to watch the front end alignment vhs again and get some help with a tape line to make sure I have the 5/16ths in to the front.
I did the switch to 5-1 ratio on the steering.
Ok, i took a look today, the brake rods do seem to cause the issue. Trouble is,I took it down the road today and tryed to park it in a certian place and the brakes would not hold even though the rods are in a bind when in high gear? Could there be wear on the cams or do I seriously need to do some home work? You have to forgive me,when I put the chassis together it was years back and it seems I was scratching my head over this even back then.But I was taking some stout medicine and now that I aint,I still can't seem to quite grasp the issue. I promise to do some reading while I am waiting for my dad's medical test to be done monday.
Mack, your brake rods are too long. Shorten them and it should solve both of your problems
Before you shorten the brake rods! I almost always find I need to enlarge the rear end brake cams. New ones can be bought, I have never tried them myself. I usually make a custom flat steel shim formed to shape around each cam. A few times, I have had material that could be formed cold, sometimes the cam wear is enough that I use thicker strap steel and must use a torch to form it. I have seem unrestored original rear ends with such cams and shims, often not held on by anything but the friction of being squeezed in place. But I personally am not satisfied with that. I usually braze the shim piece into place on the end of the cam.
Doing this will usually cause the cam lever to grab at a point of rotation farther back, in effect, making it require a longer brake rod. It also moves the advantage point of the lever to give you better brakes on the rear wheels (a very good thing).
Most of those cams suffer from years of wear on dusty roads, and need to be replaced or enlarged.
Thank you folks for the help.
well I finally got around to figuring out some issues with the park brake.
Turns out the camshaft and bushings were worn to a point things were sloppy.I had my dad work the lever for me and I could see movement.
So I will order the cams and bushings in the morning.Already have everything took apart and ready to install the new bushings.I guess it was 1 of those things I didn't realize was a problem back in 2007 or so when i did this rear axle.
The axles are tight as I know I put in new thrust washers and good bearings and new seals.
Just must not have thought this movement was a issue.
BUT I did notice,there is a oil cup there for oiling the shaft. The bushings were not drilled. So no wonder they wore out.
I think this bit of slop was the straw breaking the camels back for the problems I was having with the high gear lever.
I got the bushings and new cam thingy's put on and still have the same problem.So I will continue to reread the above words and hopefully get this figured out.
Dumb question perhaps, but is there a proper thickness for the brake lining? It has what appears to be decent brake lining on it but if it is supposed to be a certain thickness perhaps that is something else I need to check.
I did find the bushing on the left side was fairly easy to put in. The 1 on the right was not.It also had to have more work done to get the shaft thru. I don't have a reamer that size and didn't know where to get 1. So I got my old trusty brake cylinder hone out and gave it some valve grinding compound and used a drill. Kept a good check on it,cleaning and retrying the cam until it fit smooth but snug.i gave it a oil hole and oiled it and they work back and forth fine.
OK ME GOT'S it!
It came to me last night when I was trying to sleep how it worked and sure enough,it all works as it should now. I was turning the adjustment the wrong way. I think I was under the mental impression that the truck should roll when the lever is in center position and be held in place when the lever is back. Which sounds logical. But when I adjusted the rods this time,I put it in high gear and adjusted the rods to where there was no tension on them to put the pin in. So Half way back on the lever,it is starting to pull the brakes on. And when the lever is back all the way, the truck is held in place pointed down a hill. Well, now that is done!
I am going to make a separate thread on my interior light questions.
Floor board questions.
Should the boards around the pedal go down in front of the board around the lever? I took a pic because I have got to cut 2 boards to make the 1's to go around the pedals and I am thinking I have this wrong. I can solve it by trimming off the edge about a inch I think.IF that is what I have wrong.
Also, the starter button. When I put the floor board in, the button was to short. I thought I could get a second extension and put it on top of the first and take care of it. Which ,yes it works but it is loose and floppy.Not a tight fit. How do you deal with a short starter button?
Maby this bumper will save my fender or radiator..Took a little while to get it on as there was a bend in the left bracket but I got it figured out and I like it!
Looking great Mack. Did you get your floorboard cuts figured out?
Mack, about your starter button problem. You might try one of the first year starter button mounts. These have a step up that might work for you.
thanks! I will check that out.
Your truck looks fantastic!
Great job Mack, wish I was as far along. KGB
Ok Jim,I found a starter button mount that has the step up. But the extension wont fit it so it still wont quite reach out the running board.It may not be the exact thing you are referring to.I forgot to take a pic of it.
BUT I can say,I won't have to struggle to make a left fender. I have 1 started for each side but the left 1 is warped. I found what i think is a reproduction nos fender! So I will make changes to the 1 I have started making for the right side so it will more closely match this 1.
Nice fender Mack. Would you show a pic of the inside of it? Shoot, it's probly on the pickup already!
Are these your rattle can fenders and what-not? They do look nice!
I scrolled back up to your bumper pic to look again and for a second, I could smell the paint. :-)
I was playing I-spy and found the blue garden tractor. I should know what that is... You gonna wash that big coupe?
The rusty Indian,"Pontiac" needs a bath but is up on jack stands waiting on me to finish making the drivers side rocker panel.
The garden tractor is a T-70B Panzer.
Fender not on truck.Been busy on some other stuff. Gota get repairs on a Gibson model 300 tractor finished up today so i can get it gone.
I will try to get some pics of the bottom of the fender.Gota modify brackets. The hard part now is to make the right 1 I am making from a roadster fender look more like this 1. There is no bead on the back sheet metal on this fender and the bracket holes are in a different location.
Yes the fenders on the front are the rattle can Krylon.
I drove to the fire department this evening to attend a board meeting. Went out a hour and a half later and the battery was about dead.It did start and I got home. But the battery goes to a little under 10 volts under 100 amp load. The charging system is putting out because as I idle up the engine the needle on my battery tester moves up and down slightly with engine speed.
So I put the battery on a 2 amp charge.Tested it again 2 hours later,same thing. I think it is headed back to wally mart in the morning for replacement.
I also found,my headlights are NOT to good.I could see, but it was a dull yellow. May have been because of the bad battery but I think I will look into new reflectors. These are "ok" originals.
I gota do some studying.
I charged the battery overnight and it tested well under load.I found the positive battery terminal loose.I have a inline amp gauge thing from Harbor freight that you put in line with a wire and measure the amp draw of say , a light or fan motor.
I put it in line with the positive cable with all switches off and no amp draw.
But before I did that ,I got a quick spark to the battery from the wire.???
I do have a electronic regulator on it and so forth but it is odd that draw does not show up on the meter when I test for it.
The large battery wire goes to a solinoid,not straight to the starter. So unless something is turned on or shorted, there should be no spark.
Duey,here is the bottom of the left rear fender I picked up at the auto fair.
Ahh! Now I see. Way different.
Thanks much Mack!
The fenders are to different to try to fix the roadster fender to look like the nos fender that is correct .the end of the fender is rounded on the nos 1 and squareish on the old 1.
I will wait till Luray and see if I find another correct fender or fenders if this 1 I bought is not right.
IF I don't,which i have my doubts as the correct fenders are scarce,I will resume the roadster fender conversion. With both the same style and such,i can make them look ok for my truck.
Still aint got my windshield back yet.
I slowed down on the T to get the shop cleaned up and to do some other projects that are pushing while I wait for the windshield.
Thanks for the update Mack.