Upon rebuilding my NH carb I came across a delemma, installing a new viton needle and seat, I matched the old seat up with the new one, (thread depth) and found the new one was quite longer. The delemma, while reading old posts about seat gasket problems, I didn't think the seat was fully seating against the gasket so I filed the seat (threaded side) down to the same hight as the old one. Now the float is alot higher. I know the float can still be adjusted but it just doesnt seem right. Has anyone else experienced this or done the same? Doug
I haven't, because after having trouble from the rubber tip sticking I use the original needles.
Ashley at Langs said they cant get the originals anymore. So I had to buy the rubber
The reason we made copies of the original is for that very reason, but the real reason was the hole in the seat was too small. Yes, they are all gone now, but it's time for someone else to take over making them right!
That's something else to watch for at swap meets.
Unless the bit on tipped needle is actually sourced from some other common carb, wouldn't it be easier and cheaper for the makers of these things to be putting out new steel ones?
I tried the Viton needle. Worked great for about two years, then began to leak. Back to a new original steel type (and seat), and no problems for the past 6 years.
I overhauled my leaky NH carb about four years ago using Lang's rebuild-kit which had a Viton needle. -So far, it has worked out quite well. -My engine runs very nicely and the carb doesn't leak anymore. -Guess I got lucky.
Is there a fiber washer between the bowl and the "nut w/thumb screw" that holds the bowl on to the carb. body or some type not fiber washer? Also is this "washer" included in the 6 piece package from mac's, snyders etc w/number 6200 NH thanks
I think people may be using the word “neoprene” and “viton” interchangeably and/or aren’t sure what they actually have.
One thing I have noticed on more than one viton needle and seat set is that there is frequently a burr at the bottom of the seat where the needle fits in there. The machining leaves a sharp edge that can hang up the softer needle tip. I put some toothpaste on the end of Q-tip and rotate it between my fingers to round that brass edge where the needle's tip hits it. Have to do that with pretty much every carb kit I've installed in everything from outboards to small engines, so Model T carbs aren't the exception.
Don, the answer is Yes. The drain plug gasket is included in the kits.
I toss the felt for the fuel line and use a short piece of fuel hose, about ¼" long, instead. The float valve seat gasket is too hard and may leak, so I make one from thick gasket paper. Some folks make it from lead.
What is the correct setting for the float when the carb. is turned upside down. My memory is 5/16 In.
But at 81 my memory is a lot of mush
From the Carburetor book:
Cork float..........1/4 - 5/16
Metal float.........3/16 - 1/4
Might try putting the seat in a vice and file some off the slot end. The slot is easy to recut with a hacksaw. Then put the needle in the seat and file down the needle, as needed. Leave the needle as long as possible and close the float tab.Then take a fine tooth hacksaw blade and cut a grove around the float end of the needle, making a little mushroom head on the needle. Using Twenty four thousands mig wire, or something similar, form a little clip to hang the needle on the float. When the float drops, it pulls the needle down and -Walaw- no more float sticking. Most all small engine carbs use this—Not my idea.