I removed the cotter pin and bolt (pictured) from the crank on my '24 touring. Is there anything else holding the crank in or should it now slide out from the front? Seems to be stuck and I don't want to force it.
I am a newbie with zero mechanical ability.
Just pull like heck - in & out like a slide hammer - it's just stuck !
It should slide out. Is the shaft of the crank stuck in the ratchet part (the part with the teeth that engage the crank pulley pin), or is it hanging up in the bushing at the front of the engine pan?
Ordinarily the hand crank would slip out the front leaving the ratchet to fall in the "cup" of the pan where the crankshaft pulley runs. Why do you ask about a bent hand crank ? Can you see it's bent ? If it is, being sprung could make it bind in the bushing - otherwise, it's possible the ratchet is rusted onto the hand crank. Can you show us pictures ?
You can also engage the ratchet and turn the hand crank without the clevis pin, it will spin in the ratchet - a little oil or lube spray and it should pull right out.
The 25 I have been working on suffers the same issue. If I my tanks were not empty and the nose area is/was full of grease and crud I would have heated it up and tried. As it is, even in gear and the dog engaged with the pin, she no turn. Mine was still riveted, that rivet did not want to come out ether. Of course the pulley was almost as tight (that's a plus) and took some doing just to move it enough to pull the timing cover.
I was thinking the same thing as Steve mentioned above. If you can get it to break loose, just keep spinning the crank and pulling and it should come out—add some oil. Good luck.
Stuck in the ratchet.
Definitely bent as if the previous owner ran into something. I can't spin it much when engaged or it will rub on the radiator apron, due to being bent.
I sprayed it with lubricant and will try to free it tomorrow.
Thank you for all of the advice.
No luck yet.
Crank slides in and out slightly, but still stuck in the ratchet.
Not binding in the bushing.
More WD-40 and Kroil applied.
Don't want to force it and do any damage.
Any better lubricant I should use?
With the pin out, does the crank slip at all inside the ratchet ? WD - 40 isn't much of a rust solvent. Kroil is good, Liquid Wrench and 'S-OK are good penetrants. So long as you're just "muscling" it, you don't have to worry much about forcing things to a point of damage - all those parts are plenty robust.
By the way Gene, welcome to the hobby :-)
If it is rusty, you can take a strip of 1" x 12" sandpaper and sand the crank shaft just inside the bushing. Sand with a back and forth motion like you were buffing your shoe. Jim Patrick
Crank does slip a little inside the ratchet.
I'll keep at it!
Gene, Did the pin in the ratchet come out easily?
Pin came out easily.
Mine was kind of "sealed" in place with gunk. It helps to move it in and out a bit to loosen it.
Sounds like you have a start on getting it loose. Just need to keep working on it. Some of the commercial penetrating fluids work pretty well, but scientific tests have actually shown that the very best penetrating fluid is a 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Cheap and easy to get components. It might just make the difference.
You are not going to damage anything down there but perhaps yourself when it does come off !!!
Sprayed the crank and ratchet with PB Blaster.
Pulled once and off it came.
I wiped off the bottom fan pulley in case some spray got on there.
Would PB Blaster cause the belt to slip?
Glad you got it Gene.
Yes, PB Blaster can cause belt slippage. I would suggest removing the belt and cleaning with a solvent cleaner. I personally just use brakleen on a paper towel. Something that will degrease and not leave residue is preferred.
Good for you Gene !