>>>It will be fun to see how you make out with this.<<<
This guy has all the materials, glues and instructions you would need to do a project like this. When I started, I assumed it would be as easy as gluing two pieces of wood together. I ask this guy Joe a few questions by Email and realizing I didn't know what I was doing he responded by saying "Hope this helps in some way." Why would he put it like that? It was at this moment I realized I might be in way over my head. This website has many articles about veneering. I haven't read all of them but I read a lot. In addition to warping, there are bleed through issues, bonding issues, temperature limits, water content of the wood recommendations, advice on humidity, curing times etc. For a while, I thought I'd go through all this effort and cost and end up buying a plywood dashboard from Langs when it was all over because there a 50 different ways I could fail. Today, I'm feeling a little more confident.
My first attempt at gluing the cherry boards to the substrate was a failure. I was using a 3/4" plywood with weight on it but I didn't have enough weight or glue apparently. See how the boards started to curl? So I aborted the project and read more about it.
One of the articles I read (after this failure) recommended 1300 to 1700 lbs. per square foot or 9 to 12 lbs. per square inch. So I set about to build a press.
The base of this press is a saw bench. There are several videos on YouTube of building these. No nails or screws - it's all glued together dovetail joints and walnut pegs.
This bench turned out as solid as an anvil although my dovetails look like crap. Good enough for shop furniture. Counter intuitive, but it's easier to get a nice looking dovetail with hardwood. Soft woods allow the fibers to tear and be distorted. Hardwoods give me a clean cut line. But even if this joint isn't done well, it's just crazy strong.
There's a link on Joe's site to American Woodworker with plans for the press:
So I put down a layer of glue on the firewall core to prevent the substrate from sucking all the water out of the solution before the chemical reaction takes place which gave the dashboard this caramel color. I wet the other side of the 1/16th inch cherry boards before applying the glue trying to achieve a 8% to 12% water content of the wood. If you're interested, the glue instructions are here:
So the first side of the spacer cherry turned out flat and OK. I'm starting to think I might pull this off.
(Message edited by jesselashcraft on February 25, 2018)
Well I gotta say, those are pretty darn fancy saw horses you made! I hope you have glued the other side on by now, and how did it turn out? I was thinking it would be good to glue up the other side before any bowing of the core could happen. I know it is very important to keep laminated panels balanced, so the same material and amount of finish on each side.
I suppose you want it that way, but you have the grain going the wrong direction for the core, and the veneer. Great looking little bench you made. Those dovetails are difficult to do.
>>>I hope you have glued the other side on by now, and how did it turn out?<<<
I hear ya, Ray. That was a concern of mine. But the Ultra Cat veneer glue I used is touted to harden so rigid as to become a structural member in addition to holding the wood together. Great product for a beginner like me. Since it cured five hours in the press, that sucker was flat. A couple day passed between sides and there was no warping that I could see. Since I wasn't worried about bleed through for this layer, I spread it on both the cherry and the core like a typical glue up job. So far, so good.
(Message edited by jesselashcraft on March 01, 2018)
Hi Larry - these cherry 1/16" thick boards aren't the finish veneer. I needed to make up 1/8" so these went on both sides. I put them vertically on the horizontal core boards to enhance strength. I bought another glue for the finish paper layer. It's premixed and is thicker to prevent bleed through. Only the substrate gets the glue this time. I'll put the top layer on with the horizontal grain.
That saw bench will come in handy as a place for car club members to sit and school me on Model T behavior.
Beautiful workmanship Jesse! I especially applaud your use of a brace & bit. That's dedication!
Jesse, at this point you should double check that the final thickness will be such that your brass molding will fit ok. You can still sand some off the first cherry veneers if you have to.