Does anybody have info on appropriate torque for the rear spring perch nuts ?
Was there originally a washer under the nut ?
Thanks in advance
Tight and then go the the next slot if it does not line up and no.
There were no torque values in the day. Do the final tightening after the springs are installed and the rear is under the car. This will help keep the perches at the correct angle.
Thank you, Mark. Unfortunately I've already tried that. "Tight" was just past the cotter pin hole. I have torqued the nut up 120 ft-lbs and am only about half way to the next slot. Kinda leery of torquing any higher.
I tried swapping nuts from side to side in hopes of getting a different alignment. No luck, they're just about identical.
That's why I asked about a washer.
So use an 8 mm wavy washer or buy some new nuts.
Could also use locktight.
I would not torque them more than 35 foot lbs.
While 120 fp might be correct for that size bolt/threads you are tightening up to a soft forging. I think you need to back that off some and just take to tight. If the slot does not line up when good and tight, grind a little off the nut or as Aaron suggest try a different nut.
Lightly sand the bottom of the nut on a belt sander or add a shim washer as been said. Although I am a fan of loc-tite, I really feel getting the nut tight and notch lined up with the cotter hole is truly best in this situation.
Over torquing, stretches the threaded area. You don't want to do that too much or you could stress and break the fastener. However, a certain amount of stretch is what makes a fastener feel tight when tightened down.