Might be a stupid question or two, but when pressing in new spokes how do you know when they are all the way down? Also when drilling the holes between the spokes, does the wheel still have to be on the press?
Good questions!
I pressed the hub down until there was no gap between the outer edge of the hub and the base of the spokes.
After I pressed the hub down and removed the wheel from the press, I turned the wheel over and tapped down any spoke bases that were standing proud of the others. That way I didn't have to rely on bolting down the backing plate to bring all of the spoke bases down flush with each other.
I drilled the holes with the wheel out of the press, but you could leave the wheel in the press if you wished, I suppose.
As you mentioned in your question, be sure to arrange the hub so that the holes get drilled between spokes, not in the middle of the spokes.
Thanks. I am going to make the press tomorrow and order new hubs and spokes.
What manufacturer felloes do you have? Be aware that Kelsey felloes and Hayes felloes use a 1/32 inch longer spoke than Ford felloes.
Also, check your felloes to make sure that you order the correct size spoke tenons - some are 1/2 inch and some are 5/8 inch.
Is the maker scripted on the felloes? Or do I have to measure them.
If you can post a picture of one of your wheels, we might be able to identify it for you.
You can also measure using the guidelines in the Lang's answer to a customer's question here:
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800HS.aspx
Hayes felloes sometimes are stamped "Hayes", but another way is to look for four "dimples" in the outer ring, right above each lug bolt hole. The dimple is there to provide clearance for the "foot" of the rim lug. The rim lugs are attached to the rim.
Kelsey felloes have four raised sections on the inside surface, in line with each of the lug bolt holes. The raised section provides a place for the lug to bear against. Kelsey lugs are separate pieces from the rim.
I don't have any Ford felloes, so I can't comment on whether they are stamped or not.
Pictures of Hayes felloes:
Pictures of Kelsey felloe, rim, and lugs:
I see HAYES stamped on the felloe?
The pictures are of my wheels, not Jonathan's.
I'll check them out in the morning. As usual, Thanks guys.
Here's another Hayes felloe.
The notch in the felloe accommodates the Hayes lug, which extends past the bead. Hayes rims are the only ones with this kind of lug.
For drilling bolt holes reasonably straight I made this jig.
I removed the rim today and the end of the spokes are covered by a steel button! You can't see the end of the spoke. I wanted to check the diameter on the end of the spoke.
Post pictures, please. There is a file size limit of 250K per picture.
Jonathan, yes, some wheels are made that way, nope, no one makes spokes for them. Maybe you can have someone turn down the tenons on a new set?
Your wheels are not common.
What are these wheels called and when were they used.
Yes, let's see some pictures. I've heard of these but I don't think I've ever seen any. If they're what they sound like, I'd replace them with some good Hayes wheels.
Jonathan, those are an aftermarket wheel made back in the day. I'm sure someone will chime in here with some pictures of some ads for them. I don't know what advantage they were supposed to have, probably just another gimmick to sell wheels. Dave
How in the H--- do I shrink a photo to fit on this forum???!!!
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/825102.html?1519877028
Thanks for posting the picture.
Some discussion of that style in this thread:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/437128.html
You might be able to modify a 5/8 tenon spoke to work by cutting and sanding the tenon on the new spokes to match the shape of the end of your old spoke.
Regarding overall spoke length, you may have to remove one of your spokes and measure it to know whether to buy the standard length or the 1/32 inch longer spokes.
It seems like I need new felloes, where can I get them? The rims are Hayes.
I got some good Kelsey felloes from Mark Freimiller at Model T Haven. I don't know if he currently has any good Hayes felloes. Perhaps post a "wanted" ad in the classifieds? Maybe somebody would be interested in trading their Hayes felloes for your dimpled ones.
https://www.modelthaven.com/
Most of the parts dealers have used parts not listed in their catalogues. Here are some suggestions to get you started. If you don't find some Hayes felloes before October, you can probably find them at Hershey.
Model T Haven, KS (620) 365-6709 modelthaven@nautilus.net
Lang’s, MA (978) 297-1919 www.modeltford.com
Bob’s, IL (815) 633-7244 ModelT2001@comcast.net
Snyder’s, OH (330) 549-5313 don@snydersantiqueauto.com
Chaffin’s, CA (951) 735-4791 www.chaffinsgarage.com
Ron Paetz, Lone Pine Enterprises, WI (608) 604-7534 lonepine@mwt.net
Julius & Marvin Neunhoffer, TX (830) 257-8168 9hoffer@maverickbbs.com
Dave Huson, 2116 Charro Ave. Longmont, Co. 80504
Phone 313-774-9246
email modelt112@msn.com
Bob Hagelgantz, KS (785) 731-5285 loah@gbta.net
Birdhaven Vintage Auto Supply, IA (515) 674-3949
Antique Auto Ranch 2225 N. Dollar Rd. in Spokane Valley, WA 99212
(509) 535-7789
Andy Loso
323 W MN ST
St Joseph, MN 56374
(320) 293-1953
Steve's T Works, LLC
Model T Ford Service, Repair, New & Used Parts.
Longbranch, WA
(253) 884-1925
Steve, I want a spoke drilling jig like yours! What do you make the tubes out of and what size? What is the dimension of the straight piece? I am planning to be at Chicksha.