I am restoring a 24 roadster and the wood is about half shot. I am trying to save as much as possible for patterns's. I cant figure out how to remove the top of the cowl to free up the wood to pull out from the bottom? any pointers would be appreciated When I start making new pieces what wood should I use? would treated wood be used? Should what ever wood that one uses be sealed,painted or preserved in any way?.
Joe, I live in the NW so I have used fir, which is available. I find old wood at places where they repurpose building material. I have used quite a few old doors.
Paul in Tacoma
I probably shouldn't admit this on the forum but I rebuilt most of my 24 Roadster`s wood using the wood from old pallets. It's been treated for bugs and what I had in stock.
Joe, I would recommend coating the wood with
BoraCare. This is a borate solution that will prevent damage from ash borer insects. Available from Amazon.
I don't know if the Ash borer is so much of a risk after the tree is cut, I think they live right below the bark.
Powder post beetles are in my estimation a bigger risk. We have to spray boron (its just boron and water) on all the wood cut to help minimize them or else much of the hardwood ends up with damage while it dries. Borer Beetles where the reason I had to replace so much wood in my TT, they ate it while it sat stored away I could touch what looked like a piece of ok wood but it just crumbled into dust. It seems that many bugs mostly leave the soft wood alone once it is dry, it has too low of a calorie count.
Powder post beetles is most of the problems with mine also, the wood looks good on the outside except for the small holes that look like fine shot, inside the wood is just powder. Never thought about pallets. The odd size pieces might be salvageable from them. They must have assembled the body around the wood frame. I am having problems removing the top piece of the cowl to get the wood out from that joint and the door frame? Without braking it up to much. Thanks for the ideas, this site is really something.
With all the bolts out, and there are many, the top of the cowl should lift off. Old fir is a good wood to use; oak is not. There are some complicated wood pieces in the cowl!
I used white oak from a local sawmill. It worked well. I did a lot of the shaping with a 10 " diameter sanding disc in my table saw. I had a copy of Mel Millers plans for the body and old wood from the doors for a pattern. It took a little thinking to
fit the door wood because of the flanged periphery.
I think any hardwood species would likely work. I would avoid pine or whitewood.
I am just starting on the wood for the rear doors on my '23 Touring. I think that the Miller plans I am using say to cut the wood pieces, then put each in place in the door (assemble in the door), then fasten together. I also seem to remember somewhere that the sheet metal along the top of the door should be bent upward when assembling the wood in the door.
Paul in Tacoma
I fitted the wood in the door without bending any sheetmetal. I rewooded a touring, on the plans I had the front door latch post was a quarter inch off. The roadster plans may be correct, I don't know.
Ted used white oak, which is acceptable: most oak available is red oak, which is NOT acceptable.
hi I had a rivet in each side on the 25 I took apart then the cowl came off maybe some are different