I am rebuilding my first rear end and came across an issue Iím not sure how to handle. I noticed the driveshaft bushing was the old Babbitt type and when I tried to punch it out it actually popped out with no effort. As nice as that sounds I found the new bronze driveshaft bushing can be installed and removed very easily. So does this mean the driveshaft housing is too worn and most be replaced? Iím assuming the bushing should be a tight fit so it does not spin with the driveshaft which I fear this will do.
Thanks for any advice.
Fit the new bushing to the shaft. Face it for proper u joint position then Use loktite sleeve retainer.
I was going to suggest knurling the bushing OD, reusing that's a little "iffy" for a sure press fit. I have never used the loc-tite product. I'm guessing it wouldn't be a good idea to do both ?
"Realizing" not "reusing". Gotta do a better job of proof reading my posts !!
I've never heard of that! Sounds like maybe someone forgot to drill the oil hole, and the bushing seized up on the drive shaft causing it to spin in the torque tube?
How loose does the new bushing fit? Sloppy loose, to where if you turned the tube on end, the bushing would fall out? Or is it a snug fit, but not requiring much effort at all to take it back out?
If it's snug, but not tight, I would go with the knurling and high strength Loc-Tite. Realizing also, the when the grease cup is installed, it MAY actually go in deep enough to engage the bushing lube hole slightly and also offer some locking. This shouldn't be considered a total means of securing the bushing, just a little added insurance if it works out that way. (You could carefully run a pipe tap a little deeper to perhaps ensure that the grease cup does engage the bushing, if it currently does not do so. Just be careful to not enlarge the pipe thread so much that the cup can touch the driveshaft, or to have the cup run out of threads before it's tight.)
If the bushing is sloppy loose, I'd make a new, custom sized bushing with a larger O.D.
Had that happen on a driveshaft housing I disassembled last year. The bushing must have been a jobber as it was a steel sleeve with babbit moulded around it and the face that the u joint was supposed to be up against was completely gone. It just slid out when I inverted the tube. A new one was loose in the tube.
After I got a new bushing faced to fit the u joint, I dug out my copper pipe soldering kit and fluxed and soldered the outside of it and had to file down some high spots when I was done but got it to fit snugly. Also used a thin coat of JB Weld on it for good measure.
Drilled a hole for the grease cup and reamed for the driveshaft and it looked good. Have yet to run it as I have not finished the rear axle assembly but I hope it works.
Sorry, no pictures.
Your mileage may vary.
I would face it where you want then put it on the drive shaft as a backer then go up and down the length in rows with a sharp punch where it fits into the drive tube. This is the same as knurling except not everyone can do that at home, it is going to go in tight.
Loc-tite or JB might be fine, I am just not a guy who likes to glue things but like a mechanical fix.
Any of the above suggestions will probably work just fine. Dimpling with a punch is probably the quickest and easiest way and how they would have done it in the past. As long as it is tight and won't spin you will be fine.
Dimpling with a punch or chisel is not a good thing, unless you add something such as Loctite. Yes, the dimples will make it tight, but it will NOT last, eventually, they will flatten out to their original size. I've seen it happen time and time again over the last fifty years of messing with things mechanical. Think about it, if it was worn to start with, how can some dimples replace the lost material without some help? It just ain't gonna happen! As always, JMHO. Your mileage may vary, but I'll bet not by much. Dave
What I did with a bush that wasnít as tight as you would expect when installing it was to also fit a ďanti rotational pinĒ through the torque tube into the bush. Worked well for me.
I agree with Johns approach. I turn down the OD of the bushing so it slips into the torque tube easily. Fitting the thrust since the bushing can be removed and trimmed as needed. Once you've got the right fit, use loctite or epoxy or JB Weld to hold it in place with the driveshaft and ujoint installed with the pin all buttoned up to the rear axle housings. That keeps everything aligned as things dry. Its a very sturdy repair but can be undone simply by heating the bushing.
If the bushing isn't reamed for clearance (.002-.003 I believe?) drilled for the grease cap and lubricated then yes it will grab and spin in the drive tube. If you pound a drive shaft into a new bushing like a nail in wood bad things will happen. Dimpling will swell the OD and make it tight again, glue is insurance I guess.
I only started on my first Model T 30 years ago and probably 15-20 cars over time. Only did this once and that was the first one by advice from an old time mechanic who was there in the day and owned a John Deere dealership, his collection was massive with Pierce Arrows, Packards, Fords, High Wheelers, curve dash Olds...I dimpled it as advised but have never taken it apart to see if it spun!!! Never a problem though.
Seems like a simple concept too me; if I put a new door in my house it only takes a few thin wooden shims to anchor the frame but if the door is too tight the first time I open it everything pulls out. It doesn't take too much dimpling of the bushing to set it but with no clearance it will grab the driveshaft and the wrong side will spin.
Don't really care here but no need to over engineer something simple. Dimples don't replace lost material, they just swell it back up to fit then proper clearance will not bind or grab. Round things spin in a hole with room but tight things spin the hole, that is called "friction" and you need to understand where it is applied and not applied.
Thanks for all the ideas, I ended up finding a good used housing-now if I could only
get the old bushing out. LOL exact opposite issue on this housing