Greetings fellow Model T'ers!
After many requests, I've (finally) made a video about lubricating your Model T...
Ford Model T - Oil, Grease & Lubrication
Don't forget to join us on Facebook
... And have a look my website too
- Mitch Taylor
No play. Error.
It plays on my Windows 10 tablet.
It played fine here, thanks Mitch.
When in doubt, restart your computer. Playing now.
Devilish computers. Mine says it doesn't support HTML5.
Ooh! I'll try it on my phone!
OK as far as it went. No oilcan? zerks all over the car, no spring leaf lube. The car looked like it had not been lubed since it left the factory. But ok,
The audio has an Australian accent but it plays okay on my desktop....
Many thanks, Mitch, for posting.
I found you on YouTube a while back and subscribed. Have enjoyed and learned from all of your videos.
I am so appreciative of folks like you and Steve Jelf who have been so generous in sharing your time, expertise and resources
Those painted over Zerks need to be replaced , the paint keeps the grease from going in. Also the hand brake shaft has an oiler hole on the inside of the frame rail between the two bolts that hold on the bracket. it's just a simple hole in the bottom of the frame , sometimes you will find a felt wick there . Most of the time restores miss the hole. Mine were clogged with road dirt so I removed the and cleared the oil holes in the bracket. Just a thought Mate , good job over all.
Does a '25 not have the provision to oil the rear of the generator? My '21 does. Although it would be difficult to do by pouring oil from a cap. What about the rear wheel outer bearings? I try to lube my door hinges and latches moving parts occasionally. Any moving parts or hinges/joints need attention. Also, it should be pointed out that brush type timers, like my New Day do not need oil or grease.
All Model T generators originally came with oilers on the rear cap. When they're rebuilt, a sealed bearing is often used. Some guys then remove the oiler and some rebuilders have a screw that looks like an oiler that is non functional.
Those old school oil cans with the stem like in Wizard of Oz that may or may not have a pump on them is what I use for the spring hangers. You can find those at garage sales and such. Super convenient.
This is a handy tool. You see it at swap meets, usually priced from $20 to $80 depending on condition and who's selling. The one I bought at Hershey last fall was $2.
I agree with Tommy about oiling or greasing all the moving parts (latches, linkages, etc.). Many are not listed on the lube charts.
Neat picture Steve with the car hood in the backround
Just wondering about the steering case. Isnít it possible to undo the top cover without removing the steering wheel. Just un screw the little lock screw and unscrew the hole assembly?
Rolf, you are correct. The pinion comes out with the cover.
I like oil cans. Guess that's why I have about a dozen of 'em. No "FORD" cans though, yet.
Also missed, is the Grease cups on the rear axle.
Thanks for all the positive comments, it genuinely inspires me
I will keep you guys updated with more videos soon
Mitch, Not to be a nit picker but the front spindle bolts should have oil cups not zerk fittings. Grease cannot get down to the bottom joint of the spindle but oil will run down the outside of the spindle bolt to lubricate the lower joint. From what I have read here on the forum a lot of us are using chainsaw bar oil it's quite tacky and doesn't run off as quickly as just plain old oil. If I am wrong in this statement I'm sure someone will correct it. Jim
Jim is right on both counts. Spindle bolts should have oilers, and lots of folks use chain saw oil that will last better than motor oil.