It looks like I am going to replace the rivets on my 26 driving plate.
My guess is peening the rivets when they are red hot would be the best method.
How would I verify the alignment after replacing the rivets?
No need for heating. Rivets from the vendors are soft, as they should be, if the holes are not out of round It will center itself. Care needs to be taken to assure the shaft and the plate are flush. I use my press to hold together on a fixture for a buck. Small hammer and lots of strikes, You will need to machine of some off the peened rivets for clearance on the back side.
I forgot about this video we did on replacing drums. may give you some ideas. good luck
Dave, if you are replacing loose rivets, I would suggest doing them one at a time. That way you need not worry about keeping things in line. My preference is to hot rivet them, and this is easier if you have help. One fellow heats the rivet sitting on the buck and the second person lowers the drum over the rivet and sets it.
Others will do it differently.
Allan from down under.
Why not just buy a 26-7 driving plate?
Larry, if I purchase a used 90 year old driving plate it will likely have 90 year old rivets
I agree with Mike Bender, no need for heat. It only complicates the procedure and is not needed.
90 year old rivets are just fine, as long as they're tight yet. You're replacing yours only because they're loose, right?
Check the plate for cracks, most are cracked between the rivet holes. This is from flexing of a misaligned pan. Dan
The rivets on the drive plate should not come in contact with anything. There is clear space on both sides so no need to face them.