I cant find thread for March.
Im deep into generator rebuild. This generator would not even turn when I got it. Bearings were froze up. The brush plate insulators looked good but someone painted the whole brush assembly with chrome or silver paint. I am very lucky to have an Amish shop that rebuilds starters and generators. He checked and turned two armatures and re-cut grooves,sold me the large bearing and loosened the field coil bolts for$22.00
I was making great progress until I realised I was out of lock tight for the 6-32 screws for the brush holder. It was late and I guess it will wait till tomorrow.
I am rebuilding a starter and looking for one brush holder.
Andre
Belgium
Just finished up this master Vibrator here are some before and after pictures thanks again Bill
Bill, that is beautiful - great job! I love the way the old wood cleans up.
Nothing yet. I need to R&R my generator. My reverse band needs tightened a bit too. Maybe this coming week.
Today, I am rebuilding 4 Heinze coils.
Photos show the coils and the broken starter brush holder I am looking to replace or repair, any suggestions???
Andre
Belgium
I raised the door in front of my t, to let it see why Ive not let it out to play,honked the horn patted the fender and closed the door.there is still three feet of white stuff out there,any one told mother nature its MARCH?time to get mud season over with.set out the tomato plants,prune the apple trees and a bunch of other spring things.the world is changing,we never sugared in Febuary,I have not been stuck once yet,still keeping a good smudge going in the Vermont castings,and all that there stuff.its strange how some things are sooner and some things are later,any one else notice whats going on?.
I did what I like best about Ts, a tour with some fellow Ters.
I’m also working on the 09 body which is coming along well but slow. :-)
Finally I have managed to remove the later starter Rajo engine from a friends 1911 T that appears to have been put in the chassis before the body was put on and really held the engine in position. Finally I managed to remove the firewall. Some of the screws were metric :-(
(Message edited by Tony_bowker on March 11, 2018)
So far: nothing. My to-do list includes one last pass through to ensure all of the cotter pins and safety wires are present, then get it on the road. After that I should go through the front axle (it's presently good enough but I'd be happier if it was rebuilt and repainted), and properly clean and reseal the fuel tank.
Before and after. Two generators to make a good one. I need to order a cutout and the TT will be charging. I ordered the glass last week for the Martin Parry cab. Hope to mount the cab about the end of March.
FINALLY got two tires mounted. Spending some time in the Smokys for a couple week, then will try to get the other two on the car. It's going to be nice to see a set of new tires on the car.
Sunday evening I give it a try to repair the broken brush holder and rebuild the starter brush bridge.
First I give it all a good cleaning. I drilled out one ground brush holder to replace the broken holder. Make the three holder fit with 3mm screws.
Replaced the ground holder by the broken one.
To do this I first de-grease the brush plate and the parts of the broken holder. Glued the parts to the bridge with super glue and set the two screws in the bridge parts.
Set new insulation on the plate and assembled the two positive holders on the bridge.
I hope the supper glue and the two screws will hold but I am still looking for a better brush bridge.
Thanks Toon for the offer and will surely except it.
Andre
Belgium
Today I finished my new tail lights. A couple of months ago I bought a set of the bargain trailer lights on sale at HF. The last few days I've been converting them from 12 volt incandescent to 6 volt LED.
Most of the time they fit in a small box in the car. If I get caught out after dark I can set them out on the fenders and plug them in and I'll be plenty visible from behind.
Eventually I may rig up a flasher and a turn signal switch, but for now I have the most important thing: bright tail lights that I can turn on with a toggle switch.
I haven't done a road test yet, but I think the magnets are strong enough to keep them in place.
I was just thinking about doing the same about thing Monday. I have not figured where to mount the brake/tail lights on the 25 I am working on, but this would get me up and going till I figure where I want them.
I did take the 25 down to the Oregon DMV (about 8 to 10 miles round trip) for VIN inspection, title change and applied for year of manufacture plates. I took Bruce's book with me to show the correct year, the Montana title had the wrong year, guess everyone has a 1923! Everything went OK, but will know in about days if ok to use the 1925 plates. We had a great day Monday, nice and warm. Great T driving weather, today not so nice lots of rain, boy did I call that one right. The 25 has some running issues, should be an easy fix.
Got the 21's block back from the babbitters, been using it for setting up the Poormans overhead. Lost one of the ball sockets for the push rod (found a replacement) and am waiting for Gene to send a couple of parts, Thanks Gene!
Replaced the bottom 5" on the right 1/4 panel (rust termites). This was the only rust through on the whole car!
fitted 1/4 panel to body.
Next step, metal finish and solder the repair, and prime.
Towed my T to Rincon Pkwy in Ventura, left my trailer in Ojai and had lunch at a local taqueria. I just got an Alumna 14 ft trailer and it is GREAT behind my '15 JK Unlimited, I will probably buy a winch for the trailer in case Lila won't start......
Looks like we are replacing about 7" of body rust and holes with stainless steel. When I mounted up a rear fender, I got a rude awakening that maybe something needs to be redone. The stainless was free so the price is right with the top seam getting a regular steel weld and the bottom getting the more expensive SS weld. A one inch lip was welded onto along the bottom of the back half of the sub-frame rail, basically, all around the back half of the car, for the body to mate up with (The coupe body is still in two pieces). The water channels in the trunk, what's left of them, have been removed and they will get be replaced with stainless. I cut out two, 1" slots at the tail of the sub-frame for the stainless water channels to empty directly onto the ground, maybe extending a quarter inch below the body. Also welded up two 4" holes where the trunk floor pan did not quite reach the rear sub-frame. The rear sub-frame piece that was purchased was about 5/16" too low with the rest of the body, so it was cut off at the end and a 30ish" piece of bar stock was welded in it's place to match the lower body line. The rear body is now sitting on the sub-frame, teetering on the "D" pillars (rear window) with clamps on the "B" pillar door jams, all the while trying to keep the door jams plumb ("level" for the novice). I'm assuming that the door jams are supposed to be perfectly plumb. The two brackets on the back side of the door jams have been welded into place but not to the sub-frame. The rear panel below the deck lid had "oil can" lengthwise the entire piece and was put on the English wheel, now fixed. The two trim pieces that run the back side of the car from top, past the sides of the trunk to sub-frame are rusted up the last 10-12" and I've cut out new tops from 1/8" angle iron but have not rounded them yet. We have been filling in holes on the hood pieces, replacing some missing loops at the end and the Mrs has painted some of those pieces green. Everything we do is a constant reminder that this car did not deserve to be treated this way, left to rot. It is also a reminder that "Olivia" did not deserve to get restored either. Nevertheless, we are happy to spend time together working on our improved, improved Model T.
Got the top done. It is possible to put a Roadster top over Touring bows.
Not for me but another one going down the road !
Not much. -Waiting for a wheel to come back from the wheelwright and, in the meanwhile, dealing with cabin fever and acute boredom... so I played around with Photoshop.
Took the Roadster out for a 20 mile run up the Old Bull River Road. Most of the road is still frozen but there is a little surface mud in spots. Nice sunny day, up in the 40's.
I replaced the original engine back into my car. It is now rebuilt, aligned, and balanced, so it should run a bit better.
Took that frigging voltage regulator off my generator and went back to a cut out, I am much happier now seeing my meter showing charge and my headlight brighter as I drive...yep much better now.
I have the 4th rod adjusted I hope. I havnt tried it yet as I removed the bands for new linings.
They started coming apart.they had some strange rivets in the wrong way.you can see the brass shavings on the band.
An old SCBA tank for bucking the new rivets worked great
After seeing the brass wires in your old band linings I am surprised that your mag even works. Forgot to tell you to use one wire tie for each band.
Interesting band material. :-)
It would work just fine at the end of an axle under a dry brake drum? :-)
If you didn't do it this time, perhaps the next, for a gauge, put a set of drums in your lap after re-lining those bands and tweak the bands for roundness and twists.
I was amazed at how bad the bands were and with a little finesse, we can get get them VERY round and true! :-)
Yup Dallas, I think Duey's right. That looks like brass wire woven in the lining, used for brake bands. As I recall, a lot of older trucks with a drum brake on the transmission for a emergency brake used linings like that, among other uses. Dave
Funny that was the only band coming apart. It was the low band. The other two looked good with little wear.
Got my laundry list of things done on my new T. Started work, in my spare time, in December:
Pulled the engine, adjusted the mains/rods & painted/detailed it
5 new tires
New wiring harness
Etched Glass Wind Wings
Polished all the nickel
new stainless bumper bars
New wooden steering wheel
Countless hours bringing the paint back
Late model headlights and tie bar
Now just need some driving weather to complete the list.
Nothing done, I need to re-install the engine in my 24 Fordor, it had a loose rod and while I had it apart I installed a new .280 Stipe, I have a Stipe .250 with 200 miles on it. I figure about ten more weeks while my new knee heals and functions correctly. Gets better every week.
Rick
just finished disc brakes for the front of my speedster project
Just finished a double round stack magneto coil ring for a 1912 engine.
Andre
Belgium
Retrieved block and head from machine shop new valve seats and the block decked
Head was milled
and did a head bolt length check with no gasket front
and rear
since they screw in far enough to tighten with no gasket they should be fine and the block was bored .030 over thats enough for today.
Probably won't happen this month but I've gotta get my generator working and get my top on.
Probably won't happen this month but I've gotta get my generator working and get my top on.
It's not hard to get a top on...first you put your right arm in the right sleeve and your left arm in the left sleeve and your head through the larger hole that is centered between them and PULL!
As for your generator Geritol may help.
I succesfully installed new band linings!!!! Tightened the 4th rod that was knocking and all is well. Neither is a pleasent job IMO. Both jobs will keep my tools from rusting any time soon. Thank you MTFCA forum for all the info and encouragement. The people here and their knowledge is great. Thanks for sharing it so guys like me can enjoy these cars.
Drive safe and often!
New Prus High Compression Head installed. Can maintain 35 mph on hills I used to have to drop down into Ruckstell with. Noticeable improvement in performance all the way around.
Stainless steel right rear side patch.
Wow Bob, that is one sweet paint job!
Today's job wasn't on one of the cars, but on the shop. I set up the stereo and speakers I bought at the auction Saturday.
The tuner is set to the FM transmitter that's plugged into the computer upstairs in my office. I can listen to any station in the world that's streaming on the internet. One of my favorites is XHRPA in Morelia, Michoacan.
The Realistic (Radio Shack) speakers from the seventies don't really weigh 500 pounds, but for an elderly gentleman with no upper body strength left they sure felt like it when I wrestled them onto the shelf.
I happened to have a roll of speaker wire with just enough left to reach both speakers, so I spent nothing on that. The Sherwood stereo cost me $7 and the speakers were $1 for the pair.
Here's a couple pics from our Bernie Glass in SK, CA! :-)
Bernie says he didn't do much but Dale Anderson made him a set of wheels that he picked up in Prince Albert, SK last Thursday!
They're beautiful!
Steve, you're rocking out! Nice stereo. Now I gotta go lookin' for your new fave station you posted. :-)
You guys are busy! :-)
(Message edited by duey_c on March 27, 2018)
Robin, you NEED my RAJO :-)
On Saturday I gave a driving lesson to the guy who bought my Town Car, fun experience.
On Sunday I went on a tour, yes the second in the month. It was to a volcano in Carlsbad. To me it looked like a hill which had been excavated on one side. On the way home disaster, the normally very reliable 14 Touring busy a head gasket. It broke between cylinders 1 & 2. I checked the head and it appears flat. After some digging I think I forgot to tighten the head bolts when it was re-installed in late 2016. I removed all 15 using an eight inch wrench, which just feels wrong. At that time we were having some very serious family problems and I’m sure I never got around to it.
I had a problem with a head gasket too! We went on a tour in Nevada. From Hoover dam to Searchlight. I had filled the radiator at home Wednesday afternoon. It was parked all night Wednesday, and trailered to Boulder City Thursday and sat Thursday night. Friday morning we started the 50 some miles each way across the desert tour. I didn't check the coolant, because it had been full when I left home and only started up to load and unload from the trailer. What I didn't know was that there was a drip from the rear corner behind the exhaust manifold and in the back of the engine. The radiator and hoses looked fine. Anyway, I boiled the first day. After it cooled down I added coolant and no more boiling. Next day, I checked every time I came to a gas station, and no more problems. The head is now off being milled and I have a new gasket waiting.
Norm
I put the top down on my '23 touring and took her for a spin!!
I picked up the head today from being resurfaced and installed it. I torqued it and ran for about 15 minutes and torqued it again. So far no leaks. Also runs smoother when I start it out. It was hard to get it to run on all 4 when cold. I didn't seem to be able to find the "sweet" spot on the carburetor adjustment before. Now it starts up and runs smoothly when cold so there might have been a small leak into a cylinder too. Anyway, it is smooth now and I plan to drive it soon and torque again afterward. Hopefully this will fix things because this is the car I would like to drive on the Redwood to Coast tour in June.
Norm
Been a little slow to get started on things. But today I finally got a good hub stripped down. I am replacing one on my wheel because the inner race has run loose in the hub. Getting the old hub out of the wheel was an exercise in patients.
The newer hub below, disassembled:
I didn't want to damage the races, because at a minimum, they are still good for doodlebug use. Even with the notches, getting them out was another patient exercise. Then I remembered someone made a tool from a piece of square stock steel. I didn't have any, but I had a piece of round stock that had a bend in it. A few minutes with the cut off wheel on the grinder yielded this. It worked pretty darn good.
(Message edited by Chad_Marchees on March 31, 2018)
I just couldn't resist it and bought an other Master Coil ( already 8 working MC's in my show case).
Andre
Belgium
I installed the rear seat backrest cover. The front one I will do on Monday, April 2.
Tony just installed a Rajo 4 valve on my 14 roadster, WOW! What a difference!
There won't be any hills in the Sierra's any more!