Good as the MTFCA book on axles is, there are a few pitfalls for the unwary when working on the early stuff using the original parts. Perhaps I don't have the best idea for assembling the drive shaft spool bearing, please feel free to improve on this. I found a few quirks the hard way . . .
Part of the puzzle stems from the fact that the ball-bearing race (thrust bearing in the spool) does not pass over the hardened sleeve which is pressed onto the drive shaft, which provides the running surface for the Hyatt bearing. The reason for this, I assume, is because the drive shaft sleeve stops on the ball-bearing race and that controls thrust clearance for the drive shaft as gear pressure tends to force the pinion and shaft forward.
It appears to me a logical method is to disassemble the ball-bearing, and place the ball-bearing race on the drive shaft before driving the hard sleeve onto the driveshaft.
Remove the Hyatt bearing outer sleeve from the spool. Install the bearing cup in the spool, fill the cup with grease and install the fifteen 3/8" bearing balls in the cup. Placing the spool on the driveshaft from the forward end, bring it up to seat the race on the bearing balls, and into contact with the drive shaft sleeve. Clamp in place with vice-grips below the bearing cup. With minor difficulty, the retaining ring for the bearing race can now be installed.
Next install the sleeve for the Hyatt bearing, making sure the hole for the set-screw is positioned correctly. Next comes the hardened "distance plate". OD of the distance plate helps to keep the bearing race retainer in place, as well as provide proper distance from the Hyatt bearing base, and a surface for it to run up against. Pack the Hyatt bearing with grease, then install the drive pinion gear.
Comments, improvements welcomed !
Drawing (sketch) with components labeled, please. Cheers, Bill
Hello Rich:
Do yourself a favor and replace that archaic OEM assembly with the inexpensive Fun Projects Pinion retrofit. This is a more reliable, more precision, and significantly easier installed upgrade. Consider the huge advantage this improved technology affords you when setting your gear backlash. I cannot conceive of fighting with this OEM dinosaur for only the benefit of myself knowing that it happened to be old school. With (3) successful rear end rebuilds with the Fun Projects retrofit behind me, I am aware of no performance reason to option for the original assembly.
Regards,
Scott
Nabbed from this site and from Vern Shirk. Thank you Vern!
This drawing still gives me aha! moments and did just now again...
Is this a help or a hindrance?
It is a big help to me! Thanks Duey.
Thanks for the testimonial Scott. I've got nothin' to prove, but my re-build is done, on time and under budget ! I'm sure the Fun Projects are aptly named from all the good thugs I hear.
I'll post this sorry sketch just because William asked, and I spent five minutes on a double shot of bourbon doing it. Thanks to Duey for posting a GOOD drawing !!
As I recall, the distance plate will slide right over the 2596 sleeve. It's too bad the Ford Service book doesn't show the earlier design. I'm sure Johns new method is fine, but I've always used Ford's original design and never had a problem.
Yup, the distance plate slips easily over the DS sleeve. More, its OD helps keep the retaining ring secure in the bearing cup. The old style ball bearing is hell for stout, and everything fit up correctly, the way Ford designed it.
Verne's drawing is good but yours is nothing to sneeze at Rich.
I'm with Scott. I don't like many "upgrades" (which usually aren't), but after struggling with the original set-up I have the FP pinion bearing in two cars and will never go back.
My aversion to non-Ford parts comes from having to un-do a few retro-fits and then try to figure out what new parts were used, and how original parts were ruined (uh, I mean modified) in the process. In this case, once I figured out what parts were used, and the order they can be assembled there was no struggle. The struggle for me was the dearth of information on the early style "spool".
Steve, it would be helpful if you could give a comparison here of the FP conversion and how it goes together.
Rich: When you have the ball bearing thrust assy out of the spool, clean it, and put it back together with grease. The distance plate can be inserted before or after installation, because it will slide over the 2596 driveshaft sleeve.
Thanks Larry, I was able to use a NOS ball bearing ! I packed it with grease. The distance plate is an important part !