I am a newbie/wannabe mechanic in training. I have been searching for a
good floor jack and jack stands. I see sets of stands and a jack priced from as low as $35 (Walmart) to $130 including creeper (Sears). I am cheap, but not when it comes to safety. I've also found wheel chocks priced all over
Any recommendations?
Thanks, Gene

Depends on what you're lifting. If it's a T than most jacks and stands will do. If you want to use it on a modern car as well I'd get one that is low to the deck so it can fit under all that modern day plastic. You do get what you pay for but for the hobbyist A 4 ton jack from a place like Northern Tool would be good. I'd also look at swap meets. Nothing replaces old time steel.

You should not crawl under the car when it is on the jack, so the cheaper jack would be alright. Use good quality stands and always place them under the car when you want to crawl under. Unless you are very large in girth, it is possible to go under a T with the wheels on the ground. You could also place large wood blocks such as 4x8 under the wheels with the chocks under and it would do the trick.

Have fun with your T.
Norm

IMO, spend the majority of your budget on getting a beefy, high quality floor jack. I got mine used at a garage sale and it has been fine, so I can't make a recommendation regarding brands of new ones. If you can, check the action of the release valve when lowering a car, some of them can be pretty touchy and let the car down too fast.

I used to have a creeper but got rid of it because it was always rolling around at the wrong time (like when I was trying to tighten a bolt), plus the added height made me jack the car up just that much higher. I just put on old clothes and crawl on the floor.

I have been able to find fully serviceable used jack stands at garage sales, so I haven't had to buy them new. Do not be tempted to use concrete blocks!

No matter how quick the job or how tempting, never get under a car without supporting it on jack stands!

If you have to pull the rear axle sometime you're going to need tall jack stands to support the frame. My home made ones are 27".

Maybe this is going off topic.. I am not sure when everyone decided they needed commercially made jack stands. My father drove past a timber framing company who would put out scraps for people to burn. Thinking that the large chunks of wood would make good solid jack stands he brought some home. Wood is generally more stable than the stands spreading the load better on the surface under the car (no marks in asphalt), a thin 2x4 or 4x4 can be stacked on top if a different height is needed. Pine blocks are light once dry and will support one heck of a load if necessary (they get used for all sorts of stuff in and out of the garage) rectangular blocks give three different heights depending on orientation and can be cut at any time for a special application as needed. A benefit of pine blocks for modern vehicles without nice frames or solid axles is that the surface in contact will crush a little if there is a bolt in contact and conform to the surface.
Dad never had a set of jack stands and used cinder blocks prior to the wood, but these are definitely not a very good idea. When set on their side cinder blocks have little strength. They are heavy and give no warning before they break.
The only downside of wood is it can be a bit bulky. I tend to stack it in the wall between studs with part of the block hanging out from the wall.

Harbor Freight

I trust their 12K Badlands electric winch to load & unload vehicles - equipment - tractors ....

I trust their 4 ton aluminum racing jacks to change flat tires on my enclosed 34 foot car hauler trailer ....

I trust their jackstands to support my truck & trailer when I do maintenance & repair ....

FJ

Yes the "proper" wood cribbing will support anything

I have two floor jacks. One is a older, heavy duty American made jack and one is a Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack.

Honestly I much prefer the Harbor Freight jack because it is SO much lighter, easier to move around and raises whatever I'm working on faster. Yes it is Chinese built but try to find an affordable new jack that isn't.

All I need a floor jack to do is to raise something in the air a few minutes until I can get my jack stands or blocks in place and the Harbor Freight jack has never let me down (pun intend) on doing that job.

I like the aluminum harbor freight jack. The really nice feature not found on many older jacks is the "quick lift" feature. With a couple quick pumps the lift arm raises to the car and only then does the hydraulic lift take over raising the car a little at a time with little effort. Sure beats pumping and pumping to reach the point where the jack contacts the car and starts to lift it.

HF has a good deal on jack stands too. As everyone has for the most part pointed out, they should be a must have.

If you decide you are not a mechanic at some point in the future you can sell this stuff and get most of your money back.

As well as proper purpose made axle stands, I have a selection of solid wooden blocks ranging from 4"square to 8" square. Never balance things on a stack of blocks, the 'cribbing' stack is safer.

I have a low profile 3 ton jack and a 1.5 ton Aluminum racing style jack that I normally keep in the back of my pickup--both from Harbor Freight. I was super skeptical of these, but they turned out to be a great value. Buy them only when they are on sale to get the best value.

I can not speak for jackstands as two of my sets were bought used at swap meets and the set I personally bought new are over 25 years old, and are built like tanks. Most stuff today is more than likely made off shore--not necessarily bad, but look at what you are getting first if possible. But you should always inspect your equipment before use regardless.

If you plan to jackstand a T by it's frame, your going to need something alot taller than what is offered. Zac has the right idea that blocks of wood are solid and generally not going anywhere or going to do harm to surfaces. But can be bulky. You could have a couple blocks cut or screwed together that will then raise and support a jackstand to a higher level (two 6x6 sections screwed together with plywood top and bottom then set the jackstand on top as an example).

I buy thing to be universal---Im not just using my jacks and stands under a T, I use them under 50's - current year cars, as well as T's.

You get what you pay for! Always think safety first!

Willis