26 tank removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: 26 tank removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:21 pm:

So I have the straps, sediment bowl, and choke rod removed, the tank broken loose from 92 years of stubborn determination and rust, but I can't figure out how to actually get it out. Everything I've read only says it isn't easy and while I can confirm that, I'd still like to know what kind of motion I should be trying to accomplish.

Any suggestions?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:30 pm:

It can be done with steering colum in the car but its much easier with it out. Installing it is fun to.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brett Vining on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:32 pm:

26 Roadster
I had to unscrew the dash, steering column supports, ignition switch/ammeter assembly.
Then if you hold your mouth right it falls right out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:34 pm:

It looks like I may have to pull the dash to get it out of a 26 touring cowl? The service book is no help, they say "see figure such-and-such for how to remove" and it's just someone holding a tank out of the car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:39 pm:

Getting it out was much harder than putting it back in. I too had to remove the dash and column.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan Danbury, WI on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:58 pm:

Tim, take out the dash. I've taken two gas tanks out of 26 Model T's. The Tudor was actually easier to get out. The Touring was a pain and I had to pull the dash. My dash needed work so it had to come out anyways. I installed the gas tank first before installing the dash on the Touring. Kinda tight getting all the nuts on the dash screws, but you can do it with a little ingenuity. One of these days I'll get the Tudor back together and report on that experience.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 07:00 pm:

Tudor and coupe tanks come out and go back in easy.

Roadster and touring tanks require removal of the switch panel but nothing more... So long as you precisely rotate the tank exactly to the right position and insert something like a large putty knife or piece of sheet metal between the dash and tank at the point it binds and allows the dash to flex about 1/8” and the tank to slide by. Remember precisely how it was removed. It needs to be reinstalled in the exact same position.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 07:13 pm:

My roadster was a little hard to get out but easy back in on the 26 rpu. My 27 coupe was very easy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tim moore, "Island City" MI on Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 08:48 pm:

Disconnect your battery so nothing touches the switch (2 screws also to get it out of the way). It can be difficult upside down but the most important is no sparks.

Tim Moore


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 11:36 am:

I'll try Adam's sheet metal trick tonight then if that doesn't work the dash is coming out. Don't worry Tim, the battery disconnect was the first thing I did.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n LakeOzark,Missourah on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 02:27 pm:

If you look at what the Black Book says it appears easy ,The pics look like a coupe or sedan. On a roadster/touring not so easy. I suspect the distance from firewall to dashboard is shorter on the open cars.
I found that I didn't need to mess with the transmission at all, had plenty of clearance . But you do need to lower the steering column to remove the dash board and two bolts on the stations the outer most dash screws .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem S.E. Michigan on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 02:58 pm:

I put one back in a Roadster. After 1 or 2 hundred different manipulations, it suddenly popped in as if it were no trouble at all. I have no idea what I did different during that last charmed movement that allowed it to slip in. It all seems related more to the number of times you attempt it, than the actual technique :-) Come to think of it, that describes another of life's pursuits...

Anyway, good advice above. Best of luck to you.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matt the Headlight Lens Guy n California on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 03:37 pm:

I have a touring. I never removed the dash, but If I recall correctly I removed the steering column and instrument panel.

I don't remember if the pedals get in the way and I had to move them?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 05:37 pm:

Something sticks in my mind that the last time I did one I may have loosened the brake band adjustment so the brake pedal would stay all the way forward.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 06:15 pm:

I've used that technique myself Adam ! I loosen all of the bands and "bungee" them all forward.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Miller, Mostly in Dearborn on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 08:57 pm:

The manual says to remove the six transmission cover screws and get the pedals pushed forward.

That said, tonight I tried fitting my tank in the runabout. This body has never had the instrument panel removed and it has no wiring, frame, column, engine, or pedals in the way. This is the body that recently in a post featuring my grand kids inspecting the filler opening in the cowl.

What worked for me was lifting the tank in place with the filler hole towards the front of the vehicle. The pipe threaded outlet was facing down. I was then able to tuck the tank into the instrument panel area and pulled it up into the filler door opening.

So working in reverse, get the outlet flange away from the dash and rotate the tank down. Wear long sleeves, I scratched my forearm somewhere in the middle of the job.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 02:56 am:

Done this enough times.

Disconnect battery.
Loosen the bands so the pedals move freely.
Loosen dash panel if you have to, I did.
Undo bolts for straps holding the tank in.
Wriggle the tank so the tap slips through the hole in the fire wall and drop it down, rolling the tank out.
Much like Tom Miller had said.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 07:33 am:

So the firewall side of the tank rotates down? If that's the case I'm screwed, there's no way I can pull the tank back far enough for the outlet to clear. With the tank touching the dash I still have an inch to go. Looks like the dash is coming out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Miller, Mostly in Dearborn on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 07:35 am:

Tim,

Did you remove the support straps completely from the car? That gave me a little extra room.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 07:56 am:

I could not remove tank straps till tank was out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 09:14 am:

If you think getting the tank out is an exercise physics/geometry/contortion.
Wait until you try to put it back in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Codman on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 09:54 am:

I don't know what body style you have, but on my '27 touring I futzed around for about a half-day and finally threw in the towel. The steering column had to come out. The improved car tank is a major PIA to swap out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Codman on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 09:56 am:

I don't know what body style you have, but on my '27 touring I futzed around for about a half-day and finally threw in the towel. The steering column had to come out. The improved car tank is a major PIA to swap out. I also had to remove the gauge unit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 10:47 am:

What does pulling the steering column gain? I can't get my tank to shift sideways more than about half an inch. The more I wiggle it around in there the more I convince myself the best answer has to be to pull the dash and bring the whole tank straight aft.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 11:19 am:

Removing the clamp between steering column and dash would let the dash flex a little more.
(But sometimes it seems impossible without removing the dash)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 12:03 pm:

Detailed removal and re-installation instructions are published in the Ford Service Bulletins.

I tried to post them here but the small file size limitations of this forum won’t take them...


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