I'm wondering how much of a winch I want to drag a T up the ramps and onto the trailer without undue strain. The choices are 2500 lb, 3500 lb, 5000 lb, and 9000 lb. I have my guess, but I'd like to get some experienced opinions.
I'm kind of a more is better guy. I'd go with at least the 5,000 pound winch. Capacity is twice the weight of the car so you have a good margin of safety.
The 2500 lb should be fine if.....there is no problem with how the car rolls. When there is a problem in the drive line and the amount of force increases then you have problems. Having the rear of the trailer lower, as in a "beaver tail" will provide less stress and a shallower angle for the ramps. Which ever one you get, have the one with a remote so you can sit in the car and steer it onto the trailer while the winch is pulling you up.
Steve, you asked for an experienced opinion, and I have no experience. But I think that in pulling a car onto a trailer, one is basically pulling a weight up an inclined plane. This is supposed to be high school physics. Slope can be expressed as a percent, or in other words the rise divided by the run, times 100. If you ignore friction, such as a dragging clutch, the pull required is simply the weight being lifted times the rise over the run. if the ramp is less than ten feet long, then the weight being lifted is only the front end or the rear end, not both. So, knowing the height of your trailer and the length of your ramps, you could easily calculate the force required. I think the 2500 lb winch would be more than adequate.
Forgive me for being one of the many posters on this forum offering opinions without experience.
A winch is like a lathe, you can do small jobs on a big lathe but can't do a big job on a small lathe.
My first winch was a 3000lb, lasted a year, pulling on poor rolling stock like T's with flat tires etc pay a price. Have had my 12000lb for the last 10 years with no more than buying a few remote control batteries.
I have used a 2500 harbor freight with a remote to load my 27 T, 30 A, 1956 f100, farmall H. when we loaded a bridgeport we added a snatch block which doubles the pull but takes twice as long.
For occasional use a 2500 lb should be fine. If its too fast or not enough capacity in those rare cases, you can always put a snatch block on the cable and double up the line. But yea bigger is usually better-to a point.
I have a 5000 from Harbor Freight. The last couple of trailers I've had the 3500 straining on uncooperative cars. I also have a snatch block in the toolbox if I run into a real tough one.
Just got an email from HF, 12000 Lb is $299.00. Dan
I have the 5000lb Harbor Freight winch. It is only $50 more than the 3500lb version, but itís $100 more for the 9000lb version. 5000lb seems like the sweet spot.
It will pull up anything that my 7000lb GVWR trailer can haul. The Model T barely makes it work. In my opinion, it is just the right speed (slow, but not crawling).
Buy big. You will use it for other uses. A buddy of mine had a tree leaning towards his house. My 12,000 with a snatch block allowed us to safely take that tree down. Saved him $1,000.
So there you go Steve- somewhere between 2500 and 13000 will work for you...
I believe there is very little I can add to your vast expanse of knowledge. Here's one I am able to pass on:
Winch ratings are based on TWO parts of cable. Meaning, you need a snatch block to double up the cable to attain the rated pull. SINGLE line pull will be HALF of the winch rating. THUS, a 2500 lb rated winch will only pull 1250 lbs with ONE straight cable.
As said before, using a snatch block will cut your winching speed in half. Thus, you have better control of the whole operation. On the down side; the whole operation takes nearly twice as long.
Using a snatch block on any winch will generally make the winch last longer as the load on the winch is cut in half. This will make the motor run cooler and longer. Also puts less load and wear on the gear train.
Smaller winches are lighter, easier to mount, use less power, often can be made portable, and are less likely to be stolen. A big 12,000 lb winch is much heavier, harder to move, uses more power, and is more likely to be stolen as it is more desirable to have (in many cases).
Remember; one of the most important things when using a winch is the cable. Try to keep it as straight as possible on the drum as it winds in. Having the cable crossing over itself randomly will cause damage to the cable and shortens it's life.
I hope my meager contribution will help you with your winch decision and operation.
I agree with FJ the remote is a very handy feature. Only available for larger Badlands winches.
You get what you pay for!
Get one of these Wyeth-Scott come-alongs.
They've been making them since the 1930's, so they're almost "T" contemporary, they are massively overbuilt and endlessly rebuildable (all parts are available individually) and it is something you can use to winch vehicles, and for lifting, pulling, and stretching. Not only will it drag a locked up wheel-less car onto a trailer, it will also give you a decent upper body work-out, and you can also take it with you and lock it up when youre done.
I think one thing to look at when buying a winch is the cable/thimble/and clamps.Anyone offer Improved Plow Steel Cable? Bud.
I rigged up my first electric winch.3500, a while back with remote. I liked the idea of steering a lawnmower or something and pushing the button.BUT the dang cable gets all out of wack and it is h---,well uh difficult to get unwound.
I put mine on a 2 inch tube so I can slide it in a receiver on the trailer or the truck or even on my tractor so I could winch down a limb or whatever.
I am going to watch this thread and hope to see some mounting methods as I want to put 1 permanent on my tandem trailer I am trying to bring back to usefulness.
I have a 12,000 badlands which is way more than I need for a " T " but I was glad I had it when I went to help a buddy with a broken axle on his f-350 4x4
Gentlemen , what do you connect the snatch block to?
Pictures would be great. I do not have a winch at present but after looking at some threads about having one is changing my mind.Other than the 13 speedster which is light my brass 12 car is 2850 lbs .Never had a problem yet in 25 years but my time may be getting near to needing a winch. Cheers
I usually use the tie down D rings for a snatch block.
I use the 8000 lbs arm strong version but I also use it for more than a T.
It is best to find or make a connecting point, as much as possible, in line with the winch. Some winch mounts have holes or eyes just for this purpose. You can also tie off to any suitable item such as a D-ring (mentioned by Troy), a structural portion of the winch mount or trailer, or install your own tie back/tie down point. You just want to keep the cable as much in line as possible.
Keep in mind; your tie back point should be fully capable of more than half of what your winch is rated for. The bigger the winch rating, the bigger/stronger the tie back point has to be.
Peter - In order to utilize a snatch block for the main purpose for which it is intended, you do not, as you say,..."connect the snatch block" to anything! You open the snatch block, place your winch cable over the pulley in the block, and then close the snatch block up. You then connect the body of the snatch block to a hook, or hook and axle strap on the vehicle to be "winched", and then run your winch cable back to your winch, or winch mount, or frame of the vehicle your winch is mounted on, and then the winch will draw the snatch block (and the vehicle it's attached to) up toward the winch at half of the speed the winch cable is reeled up, but with double the power.
Hope this makes sense, as it's hard to explain,.....harold
Ok yes I get the picture now. Thanks for the info cheers
A snatch block can also be used to change direction of pull.Bud.
For my hand winch I was offered steel cable, flat belt webbing or Kevlar rope. I was tired of frayed cables snagging hands/fingers so opted for flat belt. It is good, but the pull must be well centred to avoid complications at the drum.
The kevlar rope is that used on high end racing yachts. It looks a lot like water ski rope. Very forgiving to handle, lays tightly on the drum, can stand a bit of side pull, but really tugs on the wallet. I am saving up to replace my flat belt when it gives out.
Allan from down under.
For the record, the remote control can be used with any Badlands winch, not just the larger ones.
I think frayed cable on most winches is a result of the maker using the wrong cable.There are many types of cable and i would guess often it's a low price that rules the day.If you have frayed cable on a hand winch it is cheap low quality and very well the wrong weave/braid.Left lay,right lay,which way the drum pulls and on and on.Bud.
The 3500 pd winch I bought was "new" but broken.Customer return.It used to be remote controlled from harbor freight. Someone lost the remote switch and had smoked it hooking it up wrong. I took the control box apart and found a relay like a ford fuel pump relay. Kinda small for the job to me. I found a remote control for it on ebay and then found a 75 amp relay-solenoid like is used on camper slide outs. Works great and I don't have to worry about overloading the stuff.
Steve, for occasional use, it's pretty hard to beat a boat trailer winch, permanently mounted on a stand up at a comfortable working height near the trailer tounge. A 2500 lb Fulton two-speed will pull anything you need and will always work. No wires, battery, controls, etc. Don't buy the ones that Tractor Supply sells. They're junk.
I dunno, but I think the big ones still look to be in good proportion to a T ...
I hooked a 300 gear reduction to a winch drum powered by a electric motor fine tune the cable speed by v belt from motor to gear reduction, make sure you start with a 1250 reversible motor I ran a 30 foot extension cord with a dead man reversible toggle switch I always have a generator with me to run air compressors and lights
Steve it surely is easy to spend another guy's money....hahaha The 2500lb HF is a good little winch. Mine's about 3 years old. They are on sale for $49.95 right now.
I have a yellow sales flyer here from the harbor freight and the 12,000 pounder is 299 with this coupon! Shucks,that would be a plenty for ANY job.
HEY<I got my bumper on the T pickup last week! I can mount me a winch on it!
Easy to double your pull strength by using a snatch block.
Despite what the packaging says, the wireless winch remote control works with any of the Badlands winches. The module simply plugs into the female connector for handheld controller.
It is nice to have especially if you are a one man crew!
I have a 9000# from Harbor Freight mounted on a portable platform that fits into my hitch receiver. Works wonders when loading cars. Enough pulling force that when used on an immovable object, it will drag my 4 foot Blazer across the yard. HA!
I use a 2,500 winch for model T's and motorcycles. Works great, no issues so far. Light use - maybe 4 or 5 times a year, been 12 years. Still working fine
Steve, this may be a good deal, I know I am thinking about 1 myself. Cheaper than Harbor freight and no sales tax!
Now,if you are not limited on budget and have plenty of time to wait and want to pay duty tax,
Here is another option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GLF-Universal-TDS-12-0i-12000lb-Pound-Electric-Recovery -Winch-12V-Steel-Cable/173219276355?hash=item2854ac6643:g:dqYAAOSw7nZaqyZP&vxp=m tr
If it cost that much imported from China,China, how much is the same unit here in the US after 2 or 3 middle men have put their stickers on it? Looks like a Ramsey actually.
I was a millwright for GM untill retirement.Good cable and used right should proably not fray in many many years! Chains break,and snatch blocks also do with no warning! Good cable/Improved Plow Steel Wire Rope will give off a puff of smoke before it lets go!! If your good on the cat you get off the power the instant you see the puff of smoke! Bud.
These are just my thoughts about winch cable and not about haulers.Winch mfg's sell much of their replaceiment cable because they provide poor quality /wrong cable in the first place.If one wears a cable drageing it over a edge a pice of Teflon made from a scrap dump trailer liner or combine skid will do nicely without taking up any usable floor space.If it is important,improved plow steel cable,not something bright and shiney.Bud.
When I decided to get a winch for my model T I wanted something from the time period. I figured this would look nice on a TT. I originally was hoping for a weaver wrecker winch;)
Freighter Jim and Bill's Auto Works - The MTFCA Forum is not the platform for you to air your differences. This thread is not about you! Our membership is tired of seeing this kind of thing on the Forum. Cease, this is not the place.
I hope the winch info can remain intact to help all of us.
I am wondering what Steve wound up with also.
I wanted to ask Matt the headlight guy if that was a Novo engine on that winch setup.Strange looking thing for sure.
It is a LeRoi engine. It should have plenty of power to pull up a Model T or TT. Unfortunately it is seized up.
Just a little OT here but.
A couple years ago a friend got a call from one of his buddies to borrow his trailer to move a broken down truck. My friend said he would move it, buddy says I can do it. Two hours later, Buddy's wife finds him pinned between the tow truck and the broken down truck, dead. Winch pulled the broken down truck up on to trailer and then it rolled on top of him. BE CAREFULL what ever size winch you get. Dan