So, I got the Bendix cover off and this is what I see.
1) Does this spring need to be replaced?
2) Does it just slip off or do I need to remove the head?
3) Does the head slip off or do I need a gear puller?
I would replace the spring. Before you remove it, be sure you have two new tab washers in hand for the spring retaining bolts. You might want to also have two new bolts on hand, they sometimes get mangled.
The procedure is shown starting on page 212 of the Model T service manual. If you don't have a manual, you really should get one, the MTFCA store and all the vendors carry it.
Here is the procedure if you don't have a manual and refuse to buy one on principle:
Unbend the tabs on the two bolts, then remove the bolts. If you are lucky, the head will just slide off. If the head is stuck, you may need a small puller. Ford made a special one, but you can use a generic one if you don't have the Ford one.
Be careful to capture the little woodruff key on the shaft, it has a bad habit of popping out of its keyway and getting lost.
With the spring removed, check the fit of the woodruff key into its slot on the shaft and make sure that the head can slide onto the shaft smoothly, without pushing the key out of the slot. File off any burrs that prevent the head from sliding smoothly over the key and onto the shaft. Once the spring is in place, it is nearly impossible to see whether the key is staying in its slot when you slide on the head, so check it now.
Slide the new spring into place, then the slide the head over the shaft and woodruff key. Make sure that the already bent tabs on the tab washers fit into the pockets on the spring eyes, then install the bolts and snug them down. No need to go crazy on the bolt torque, just snug is fine.
Then bend up the unbent tabs on the washers against one of the flats on the head of each bolt so that the bolts cannot back out. You're done!
Yep. That spring is toast. To be operable the two spring ‘eyes’ need to be in the same plane or in a linear aspect. Don’t throw the spring away though; the 12 volt boys like to use no account Bendix Springs above the starter as a voltage reducer. It does work
Grant, once you have the bolts out, it helps to turn the drive head so the keyway is at the top. That way it is easier keep your woodruff key in sight and it makes it easy to remove.
Allan from down under.
so what makes a spring do that? get warped like that? i just replaced on like that today.
Here are two pages from my original Ford Service book.
The vendors have an excellent reprint of the book.
It would be a good investment.
Regards, John Page, Australia.
I've used Model A Bendix springs successfully on my two Model Ts. They are beefier than the Model T springs. You need to grind down the "A" spring eyes to the same height as those on the Model T spring. Early Model As used 5/16" diameter Bendix retainer screws so the Model T screws and lock washers should fit the early "A" spring with the shortened eyes. Later Model As and flathead v8s used 3/8" diameter screws. Both size screws and washer are available from the suppliers, but Bendix springs with 5/16" eyes are hard to find. I use a vise to collapse the 3/8" eyes to 5/16" and trim the eyes to fit the retaining washers with a Dremel. For added strength I machine grade 8 machine screws to the Model T dimensions and thin the hex heads to match the thickness of the model T screws. The Modified spring, screws, and washers fit inside the Bendix drive cover without interference.