Well it is not mine but I think I am going to be the guy who restores it. The actual owner got it at an auction for about $3.5K and just found out via over the phone what it would bring if done correctly. He drove it in to where it is parked and I have been using the bed for a work bench for bout 5 years or so.

I'm going to need some pointers with this one cuz I know not in what waters I swim.

I am a decent mechanic and a notoriously bad speller but I do bring pictures and a desire to see this through. Every thing will be done on the cheap because the owner din't get where he is by throwing money away and that is a hardship for me but I have done better with lots worse.

Oh and this thing has a two speed rear end, flat four and what ever transmission that goes between. Wood spoke wheels and hard casings, hard from age I imagine. If I remember correctly it has front and rear fenders and well, basically all the tin is there and straight sept for all the life's dings an old work horse can go through. Hey it even has glass.

SO, if you guys can point me in the correct direction then I can formulate a plan of my demise as I swim in uncharted waters, well uncharted for me but you guys...well all ya gota do is yell from the sidelines I'll do the rest.

How about some photos of this TT. And welcome to the forum!!

Should be a makers name on aux transmision such as Warford,Rocky Mountian or Chicago. Ruxtel rear axle? Should be a tag on it as well.

point me into the direction...OH I see it 'upload attachment' K, now to see if'n I can do this again, well not here of course...K, I got about 13 to 14 piks and I was holding the/a halogen light tacked to a 2x4....K, off to see if I can do it again.

do we need to keep entering our screen name and password ever time? oh well...hummm? My pik's at not picking? I browsed at least ten of them and I see them not in the preview.

Limited size on photos I use Resize Me. Its free to down load.

New site new rules...I think I got it. nope now it will not let me browse....HELP!

250 kb size limit.

I fumbled my way through it but Im no computer guru. I use my phone. Someone here will help you get them posted. Thats whats great about this group.

I have already resized these piks to jpeg do I need to go smaller or something? If it is not against the rules I have these piks at another place already....I will try again. nope will not upload, I must have done something despicable what that would be IDK?

well see'n I am having problems if you want to see this thing I have posted piks at this place and you should be able to look at them.

https://www.goldismoney2.com/threads/anyone-else-got-hotrods-here.182587/#post-1 367975

It will come up as a bunch of numbers for me then when I hit post message the photos are there.

Nice, its a C cab. Not sure its a 26. Check engine numbers and look on the frame under floor boards on passenger side. Photos of peddles will help determine year. Please put plugs in head. Must be tons of dirt in there. Looks like thick dust on the head. Looks like its in great shape.

Oh, and thanks for the welcome. I seen the message about a list of numbers but I did the upload wrong...maybe I should restart this thing clear the cookies and have another go at it? Naw I'll try it again....nope... I had a message that this site was trying to close something and I clicked on it...stupid me....

plugs back in head' check.

I have never even looked sideways at this truck sept to fill the tires with air. I pumped them up about 3 months ago so they are not really leaking-leaking.

So numbers under passenger frame' check.

And, check for tags on the drive train' check

and, upload pik's of the pedals...? Like that's going to happen...I'll figure out how to do it.

Here is a photo of mine. 23 TT with a Chicago 3 speed, high speed gears in rear axle. Martin Parry wood cab. Just about finished with cab

So that is a crew cab? Oh I see it the cab protrudes into or past the fire wall.

Nice. Makes me want to pull the ol'T out and wash her up before I do anything...

OH: On the axel where the speed shift is there is nothing touching it or rather connected to it and I have never looked at it but Monday it will get the look over but do these axels get like between gears and stuck? I only ask because I cannot push this thing and it is in neutral but acts like the engine is rolling over.

The lever on the left side in the cab is the brak and high gear. It should be 1/2 way between forward and rear position. If it has aux. Transmition it should have a neutral possition. The rear axle is two speed. Straight drive and a lower gear. The bands in trans. How long has it been sitting?

Well that I don't rightly know about sitting. I remember it having no dust on it 5 years ago. In fact the bed was empty and I was tearing down a tractor to change out some range gears and needed a bench to work off of so I was the first one to do anything with it at that end. I din't even know the plugs were out till I took/looked at the pictures. Really 5 years and 5 days a week and I never looked. I know what ur thinking "Try running that through in a court of law" but is true.

What is an aux? I know it has a shifter to the right of the steering wheel and it has a clutch as well as a break peddle. At least I remember it that way. So you are saying that there is another lever on the left that is for either shifting the rear end or for a break or maybe both.

The lever on the left: All the way back is parking brake; straight up is neutral; all the way forward is high gear when you let up on the left pedal. Left pedal: All the way down is low; all the way up is high (when the lever is forward). Center pedal: reverse. Right pedal: brake.

You're going to need these: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

Thanks Steve, you are much better at explanation than I.

Well Plugs are in and no/nothing under the floor boards. Found a tag on the passenger kick board that was painted over. Used some brake clean to take off the black down to what looks like primer and nothing but pitting here and there. I take it they did not stamp these tags. Oh and no part tags on the drive train but I did capture pictures and lets see if I can upload them. And the upload button is not working for me.

The resize place did
I guess I have to clean cookies as I seem to have a bad one somewhere that is preventing the activation of my upload...BRB

Well, the pedals are 26-27, so the engine and transmission probably are too. The serial number will tell the date of the engine.

It is in high gear also. The lever on driver side is all the way forward. The engine numbers are on the driver side of block.

OK, now....That lever that is all the way forward will not go backwards without resistance its like it is stuck in that position.

then there is the stick shift that goes forward and backwards. Oh and this thing had a battery in it under the driver side step. this picture don't show it but there is a key in the dash.

I guess it is time to start reading up.

Thanks guys.

I don't think he has a 26 or 27. The coil box is not in the engine compartment. Maybe a later trans or engine swap.

Tom, the TT's did not have the coilbox on the motor in Australia. There was a special firewall for the commercials which continued with the coilbox on the firewall.
Michael, there will be resistance when pulling back on the lever. If you lift the floorboards you will see why. The handbrake lever also controls the clutch engagement. As you pull the lever back from the forward position, the clutch is disengaged, before the handbrake works.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

My TT is a 27 and the coil box is on the firewall inside the cab.

cool beans.

Numbers on the block right above the water port are
#383844

Oh and speaking of the water port there is a contraption that has a pulley with a rod and an oil insertion cap that appears to be a water pump and this is on the drivers side. Then on the passenger side right behind where oil goes in to the block is what looks like a generator. I say this because of a wire and at the rear of it looks like a terminal...with what looks like a thingy that goes on a regular spark plug. Just the metal thing.

Anywhoo, the guy who owns it said it smoked a lot so I am thinking that whom ever auctioned it off over heated it and took the temper out of the rings...either that or it is just well used.

I tried putting the lever with the dog catch in the neutral position and rocking it but it din't move...so maybe the breaks are engaged/stuck....

But I am feverishly moving through all my other projects so I can devote all my attention to this.

Check engine numbers again.
1383844 would make the engine a 1926.
The numbers you have here would make it a 1911.
Probably a 1 in front of your numbers.

really? There is no one...sorry there is no #1. I...somebody used a rubber, like a flat piece of red rubber for the gasket of the water port and yes it is quite over done and obscures where the number is stamped. I tried to use a brass wire brush and break clean while pulling the rubber gasket away from where the number should be stamped. I gave up and used sand paper to get rid of the paint and rust and that is the number. I tried a photo but I only have two hands and pulling the rubber gasket back while holding the light just was not going to get it if I had to take a pik.

You think they swapped the engine out? I am thinking so. Tell you what I will cut/trim the gasket right down to the in-flow to the block and snap a pic.

Actually, 383844 would be a 1914 engine, and that's not what you have. 1383844 would be August 21, 1916. That's not what you have either. I bet you've missed a couple of digits.

Michael, have you lifted the floorboards yet? Besides revealing how the clutch works, it will reveal some aftermarket extras attached to your brake pedal on the transmission cover. I can see a linkage/attachment around the pedal showing through the slot in the floorboards. This is not a standard part on a T.
More photos required.

Allan from down under.

Allan's keen and onto something. I finally see it. Do you have accessory brakes on that TT? If so, lucky bugger.
As far as I'm concerned the brake levers on TT rear axles are notorious for locking up/rusting up/freezing up.
I've only played with 2 of them tho. The buddy's 25 and mine. Both tight/rusted.
Have you pulled out the brake rod pins yet to help free up that control lever?
I've had 2 control levers here that were rusted tight too. Broke one mount and then learned after welding that control shaft bracket back together that some spray or penetrant is a wonder! ATF and a thinner-50-50 mix is the very best.
Do you have some spray for the lever's mounts under the frame? Spray 'em and be sure all is loose and moving. :-)
A little wiggle back and forth and more spray really does work.
:-)

It's 2 am here but yes I pulled the floor boards but to just look for a serial#. The T is only two miles away so after it gets daylight I will go and get more pictures.

That is the number but there is an 8 like two spaces away from the rest of the numbers so number is #3838448

piks to follow as soon as I can.

K,

If that #3838448 number is no good I will take a piece of paper and a pencil and do a scratch and that should reveal any hidden numbers that cannot be seen. I'll just do it anyway and if its different I will post it. But it will be in about 5 to 6 hours.

3838448 is some time in 1920 (3659972 - 4698419)

1926 would be between 12990077 and 14619254.

From your photos, I see the "brake" linkage going to the rear of the truck. What does it connect to? I suspect there are outside accessory brakes on the rear axle.

Good Luck,
Terry

Now we're getting somewhere. 3838448 dates the engine to Monday, March 8, 1920. That's more in keeping with what we've seen of the engine. Now let's see the engine compartment from both sides. The pedals are 26-27, so I assume the transmission is too, but I expect the hogshead isn't bolted to the back of the block. The 1920 engine wouldn't have the bolt holes for that.

Hogshead? Terry you are correct there are what seem to be break bands on the outside of the rear axel where the shoes should be on the inside. So that is an accessory brake? here is a pik of that last eight.



there? engine compartment? Steve I am not sure what you want. I had a pick from the drivers side showing the water pump which according to some utube vids they say there is no pump and there is one from the passenger side which I think shows a generator, at least it has a wire going to it. I can take more piks but I need to know what I am picturing.

Looks like a "20" casting date on the block !

Well spotted Steve. I saw that too, but was not sure how that related to the engine number shown. Steve's post puts the two together.
What purpose might the twisted piece of flat steel connected to the Ruckstel shifter serve? It goes forward and I can't see if it's attached to anything.

Allan from down under.

Michael,

Accessory brakes are on the outside of the drum. There were many different manufacturers. Most of them had their name cast into the mounting brackets, supporting the brake bands. Rocky Mountain, Bennett, AC, and others. The emergency brake is or should be on the inside of the drum.

Right now, it looks as if you have a 1920 block in your truck. Being a TT, it may be hard for the experts to tell exactly what year the truck body is. I understand most later Ts had the VIN number stamped on the passenger side steel floor board support that angles upwards and forwards, OR on the frame rail right near the passenger door. I've seen one stamped into the side of the frame rail but most people say the number, if there is one, is usually stamped into the top of the rail. It was common to replace the engine instead of repairing a damaged or worn out engine. Thus the numbers may not match. Another possible explanation is; one of the previous owners was mislead into believing it was a '26 when it wasn't. Or, maybe he wanted to sell it as a newer truck to get more money for it. In the past, it was easy to get a title and registration for a vehicle. Not so much today!

Cheers,
Terry

Hogshead is top half of the transmission where the pedals are. On the 1926/1927 model year hogshead there are two bolt holes at the top that allow bolting to the back of the 26/27 block. Since you more than likely have an earlier block you will not have the threaded holes in the block. You may have a 26/27 hogshead, in which case you will have two empty holes at the top of it.

Two things that no one else has addressed are:
"The actual owner got it at an auction for about $3.5K and just found out via over the phone what it would bring if done correctly."
"Every thing will be done on the cheap because the owner din't get where he is by throwing money away..."

TT trucks are great, but not big money. Model T's in general are a labor of love. I am not trying to scare you off, I just don't want you or the owner to be disappointed.
Welcome to the forum.

Engine compartment means like this, showing the whole engine in one shot.

Steve Jeff, I have those but maybe not so clean and not so wide. K, I'll take wider shots but remember you are conversing with the technologically challenged; at lest this new stuff.

dam, did you polish that power plant before you took the pic?

well anywho's great to meet you guys.

Painted it while I had it all apart.

(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on April 24, 2018)

sorry was/got frustrated with a disk and having to load the gangs on it.....will have piks of the beast that is supposed to make this move tomorrow.

me and computers just do not get along. So I am not sure what to write as for descriptions because once again all my pictures went all over the computer so there will most likely be just pictures.

Oh and I looked once again for the rail number but I found nothing.

and, this one

#1: Not T or TT.
#2: 26-27 style water outlet and fan mount; water pump is not a Model T item and may indicate cooling system clogging and/or a defunct radiator.
#3: Looks like a Holly NH carburetor, typical for 21-25; the carb adjusting rod is missing.
#4: Wide pedal and bolt holes atop the hogshead (trans cover) are 26-27 features; linkage for aux (aftermarket) brakes clamped to the brake pedal.
#5: Where is that? I don't recognize it.
#6: All looks normal, some stock and some aftermarket (linkages for aux brakes and two-speed axle); part of the battery carrier is there, part missing.
#7: Two-speed rear axle (Ruckstell) and auxiliary brakes, both very desirable accessories.

(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on April 26, 2018)

Steve: The first picture as I was told today is off of a flathead V-8. I din't know what it was and just took the picture because I turned the hood and there it was. #5 is the cab plate and there is nothing there. I shot it down with brake clean and used a brass toothbrush to get rid of the primer.

Funny thing is the cab has grey primer but the frame has red under grey with black paint; strange.

Thanks guys....Oh and as I was talking to the owner today/morn I told him about it only being worth what some one else was willing to pay and I said it was mostly worth a labor of love and he nodded his head in agreement....I just kind of think he likes riding around in stuff no one else has...he also drives tractors down the road leading the parade so this is right up his alley.

Oh well, this is a 26/27 with a 20 engine and a crazy aftermarket water pump and I suppose a aftermarket 6V generator.

Well cool beans all I have to do is get it running wash it off and do some motoring.....that is after the owner does. Oh the bed is wooden and home made as there is no FORD TRUCK back there. Oh and the wheels have 6 holding lugs in the back and 4 in the front.

#5 is more than likely the patent plate. It did not contain any vehicle specific information. Reproductions are available from the vendors. In 26/27 the engine number is usually stamped on the top of the passenger side frame rail. With the exception of the first 2500 cars, Model T's did not come with a water pump. The generator appears to be correct, and was factory installed. Front wheels are the same as the car and four lugs are correct. Rears are TT only and 6 lugs are correct.
Glad to hear that you will be moving forward with this project.

U bet-cha...It's a go ahead show.

It's an old logging maxim: Never howl whoa on a go ahead show; it's come bleed or bust.