Got my axle manual the other day and dissemblables the rear end from my T chassis (1927). Right now, I have the drive shaft removed and I split the 'pumpkin'. I need to replace the thrust washers only for now, ring and pinion are good enough. I'd like to go a route that involves minimal ré adjusting upon assembly. It appears that I must undo the safety wire and unbokt the bolts? Or is there an easier way...? I don't think the book goes into this.
My bad, it's not right there in the dissembly steps, it's in the differential one. Never mind for now!
Chances are, when you put in new thrust washers there may be some "adjusting". The rebuilding of the differential and drive-line can seem a little intimidating the first time around, but it is a straight forward operation.
John this is just my opinion but in addition to inspecting just the differential I'd have a good look at the drive-line assembly as well, and replace any worn parts you find.
Easiest to just open the thing once, measure everything while you’re in there and shim/replace as necessary. My car’s diff had most of the ring gear bolts broken(!), among other things that I only found on disassembly.
For reasons that I don't remember I put off dealing with the rear axle under my '21 for months. Finally I just dove in, after buying THE book and done it. It wasn't bad. Just something else that should be good for another 100 years.
same process for me----my new thrust washers are a bit "thick"--need to shave them down a few thousands. How do you use a belt sander to shave them down a couple thousands and keep them flat? thanks!
Thanks guys, Charles, Ill take a look. I keep finding evidence that this T chassis was rebuilt, Id guess a 60s job. Layers of primer and paint, new one piece valves, replaced wiring, and the rear end which has the babbit thrusts in almost perfect shape and has little wear on the ring and pinion. Im hoping that means the rest will be in decent shape too... but yeah of course ill measure everything. I didnt take my micrometer out with me to compare the old thrust washer to the new brass one from Langs, but the new one is slightly slightly thicker.
Luckily no bolts broken Tim! (yet).
This rear end was filled with oil. Ive never really had experience with 600w (Isnt that what youre supposed to use?) but this stuff is very thick, like syrup. But it was filled! Thats good. No ground up babbit either.
Charles, the teeth on that driveshaft pinion APPEAR to be in very good shape, but I know that doesnt say anything else about the inside. Its very quiet. I may or may not open it up right now, depends on time. Im building a speedster and plan on doing a real restoration one of these upcoming winters, so thats when Ill do a total overhaul. Plus, being a speedster, it will be able to remove the whole rear end again and open it up compared to a big tudor. Not planning on doing major cross country with this thing . The book helps a lot though, glad I got it.
Also bought the inner oil neoprene seals, and a whole bunch of new gaskets. luckily the old original seals seem to be fine, barely any grease in the brakes. Those are next... One lining is completley gone, lol.