This is a 1914 hub, I took it from the Ford drawing, so I'm pretty sure it is correct. Also the revision list denotes that this hub extends back to 1911 (with very little differences I might add), but as you can see the cap now fits flush with the hub body. Which leads me to believe that since that drawing came from 1911-1914 would seem to indicate that the 1909-1910's probably didn't have the same flush cap fitting as these did...I could be wrong of course and maybe all the hubs had them, but the drawing I used to make my previous hub (which I believe to be a 1909-1910) showed quite plainly that the cap fit on the outside of the hub and not flush with the body. If anybody has a picture of that bloody hub and it's cap fitting I would certainly love to see it so I cam make the proper amendment to my cross section.
On this drawing I've also included the hub caps that spanned the years that the drawing claimed to be this hub for reference purposes, I'll try to include them in the iso's also when room permits.
Anyhoo, you'll notice that the hub cap does fit flush with the hub body and the cap shown in the cross section is a "domed" version, but since this assembly stretched to 1914, the flat raised letter and border versions are also included and they are all brass. The nickel ones didn't make an appearance until 1917 as far as I can tell.
If as always you see something amiss, please inform me so I may make certain that things are correct or make the necessary corrections, thanks.
Although your post is about the ball bearing hub, I will send you some information about hubcaps later today.
May the Fourth be with you,
: ^ )
Lot more info, I appreciate that. The hub/spoke configuration appears 'dished' is this correct? The king pin axis and spoke axis appear parallel below the hub, making for difficult steering and worn tires? I've never seen any ford hub spoke flange that wasn't 'flat', but I have not looked carefully at the early ones. jb
When are you publishing a book of your diagrams? Put me on the list!
Went back and did some checking a bit...seems the spokes had moved when I swapped everything from one cross section to the other...also re-figured the hub cap in the cross section, since it's a domed cap, the corners need to be twice the distance of the flat, so that meant the sides had to move up a bit...at least it is closer now than the first one was.
These cross sections only help me visualize placement of the internal parts and how to order them on the page. They're not necessarily as accurate as the iso will be, but I might as well get them as close as I can I guess.
Martin, with all due respect, please check the hubcaps again. On all of my T hubcaps the wrench surfaces on them are 8 sided, not 6 sided as drawn above. I'd post a picture but haven't mastered that yet.
I agree with Keith about the hub cap, this is mine presently on tour in eastern Arizona.
Pictures of hubcap wrenches:
Now that you have decided it's 11/14, the flat side on the axle at the inner bearing needs to go and also make the thread on the spindle bolt longer, up to the bushing.
Ok, how's this...
Changed, the flat on the spindle base, moved the outer cone flat to the top...although I'm thinking of redoing this CS, and sectioning those cones too and reducing the bearings to two per bearing so as to show more details.
Also changed out the hexagon to an octagon for the hub caps...funny I was pretty sure they were 8 sided, but I drew them as 6 anyway...today I was out in the garage and took a look at my hub cars and noticed they were 8 sided not 6 sided...whoopsie.
And the wheels were dished, as you had them in the first pic.
Wow Martin, GREAT job, Many Thanks, for what you are doing!!!
Ok, how about this...
Had to change things a bit, there was no reason to include oilers that weren't used on 1914 .
Messed up, hit the wrong button...this is the corrected one.
And the wood spoke wheel is again 'dished'? jb
Yep, but not as much as on the earlier wheels.