After narrowing down that the steering bracket bushing is most of the 1" steering wheel play i have before the pitman arm even starts to move, i noticed that i have some play in the area between the steering quadrant and the column. Turning the wheel back and forth you can see the slop to the point that the throttle/spark levers even move a little. I was thinking about driving out the pins and adding some metal shim's in that area. Any other suggestions out there to those of you who have dealt with this?..Thanks.
Kind of in the same boat John.
I need to spin a chair around and machine a couple bushings for the steering bracket on the 18 here or just buy them. :-)
I've also done some studying off and on over the winter and find:
One method is to use hacksaw blade bits (you already know this I think) and tap them into the places where the slop is between the parts up at the quadrant.
I bought some slightly oversized (3/16 X 1-1/2") rivets, thinking remove an original rivet, re-drill a new hole (a thou or so undersized for the rivet), tap in the new over-sized rivet and then remove the other original rivet and do the same but found the new rivets are NOT uniform in size. Ugh.
I find some fellas use tapered reamers and stainless tapered pins to set all parts up at the quadrant IMMOVABLE and like the thought.
Here's the best I've come up with at this time: A reference or two show a couple different taper numbers also so it's anybody's game in my brain.
2990A51 chucking reamer
Go to McMaster.com and drop the numbers in their search window.
My web browser is so old I can't order the parts. So for me, I might have to go up into the house to place my order or update my Linux system.
If this of any help, let us know. :-)
Regarding the play at the quadrant and column:
The movement which you describe reminds me of a problem which I have seen before. Please look very closely at the steering column tube itself around the two rivets which hold the quadrant into the tube. It is likely that the column is actually cracked around the rivets.
If this is the case, replacing the column is the most effective repair. A short term and unattractive "band-aid" is to obtain a modern worm type hose clamp and put it around the column just below the quadrant, tightening it as much as possible. It will reduce the movement but does not eliminate it.
When you replace the bushings in the steering column bracket, do inspect carefully the steering shaft as it does wear. New bushings on a worn shaft is only one half of a repair.
Good luck with your project. Nice runabout in your profile picture. Bill
John, Bill is right about the cracks, but cracks can be welded very easily if you take the column apart. It probably should be taken apart to inspect it anyway. That would also be a good time to replace-repair the spark and throttle rods if needed. With a little work, the repair can be made to be pretty much invisible. JMHO Dave
Yes, welding works. A TIG welder can "smolder" the crack closed such that it is almost invisible. For folks without a welder or who can't find a capable welding shop replacement can be the path to follow. Bill
John, I tried the shims but they barely helped.
So I drove out the pins and (ahem) bolted it together, painted them black, they hardly showed. Problem solved.
Thanks for the input and info guys, i appreciate it.
Got a chance to tear it down and get it back together over the weekend. luckily no cracks, but i found what probably everyone who owns a T has to deal with at one time or another, very worn pins and holes in the quadrant. As Duey noted, new pins vary in size so you need to buy oversize and re-drill for a nice tight fit. I chose to use Tim's solution and used some small bolts to clamp the quadrant tight in the tube, and it made a huge difference in the amount of play i had in the wheel. When i first bought my car i went through the entire steering system and replaced everything i could find that was worn or questionable, but still had this annoying play until tackling what could be loose from the steering column down. Sometimes its the little overlooked things that can seemingly, make a big difference. The little bolts don't bother my purist heart none, and are barely noticeable,...whatever works.
You devils! That's cool!
I 'spect 10-24 or 32 screws and nuts or M5-.8 Metric.
Hint I learned. Metric socket head (Allen wrench) bolts are harder than SAE screws from the hardware store. Don't know IF this applies tho.
No slop = good!