I took my exhaust manifold off to diagnose several obvious exhaust gas leaks. The manifold was warped, the gaskets in sorry shape, and there were no "glands" in any of the portals. There's a bit of pitting on the mating surfaces, but by far the biggest problem seems to be the portal closest to the pack nut. Advice on how to make it serviceable?
I plan to buy a new manifold and gasket/glands. Is the copper clad gasket better? Is there any sealing compound recommended to help with the general pitting? And what to do about the #4 exhaust port? Thanks!
Maybe U can fix it with this:
I do not know. That one looks pretty bad. It appears to have eaten up into the top of the block, and may be headed into the valve seat. I have patched some pretty nasty stuff. But sometimes one must know when to move on.
It could be welded back up, hard seat installed, and made nearly as good as new. But that would be quite expensive. Probably not worth the cost unless it is a pre 1915 block.
Oh, and yes the copper gland set is probably best. It might even get this by for some time. However enough damage has already been done that the block likely will continue to get worse.
The copper gland set also relies on contact with the block to draw heat away. Without adequate contact? The copper gland may just melt away.
The steel glands with copper crush rings may last a little longer. But they will likely not seal as well from the start.
on our race car headers, we a special high temp silicon sealer.
I'm installing my manifold next week and have the copper gasket set. I hope my install goes well. My portals look pretty good. I hope your portal repair goes well.
Arthur, Iíve successfully repaired a # 4 exhaust port that was leaking badly. Thereís quite a number of specifically designed JB Weld products. One is a high heat stick gray on the outside and beige on the inside. Clean the damaged area real well - I used a dremel with a brush. Insert a steel gland into the port and seat it real well. Install steel glands in the other 5 ports with Permatex and copper crush washers. Pinch off some JB approximately what you think youíll need for #4 exhaust. WET YOUR HANDS and the product and kneade it real well. Place it around the #4 gland - wet - with a copper crush washer and install your new exhaust manifold. When tightened down the high temp JB Weld will fill the damaged area but wonít adhere to the manifold. Thousand miles later and I still have no exhaust leak.
Check out a product called Lab Metal. I think Fastenall stores might have it. Check the high temp.
I just went through this repair - Belzona Epoxy - it's the BEST !!! I've done several repairs with this product. It can be machined.
And - it seems #4 is usually the worst ?????
In this case, the ports were machined larger and a special gland was made to fit. When the rings and manifold were placed, they held the glands in place and it worked fine.
What sealed them Norm ? Double copper rings - one on each side ?
try PYRO-PUTTY good to 2000F
Just pressed into place and held in with the manifold. It wasn't my car. Perhaps they used the 3 in one gaskets. But it worked fine without a leak.
Wow, I've seen some blocks dug up out of dirt or mud that looked better than Arthur's. These blocks didn't run, but were rebuild-able. Anyway, I have used ALVIN Lab-Metal high temp. I ordered it through my local Fastenal store. I was going to suggest it, but I like the Belzona epoxy that Steve recommended, above.
I re-machine the manifold side of the block and re-counterbore the manifold ports and freeze plug holes.
Adam, I think that's what most rebuilders would do, but without replacing some surface area on the first block in this thread, that would be impossible.
Thanks for all the responses. It looks like I have a good opportunity to experiment with some of those epoxy products, but I won't be too surprised if I have to replace or machine the block this winter.
We do it this way.