Our '21 boils and pushes out some water almost every time we drive it now. Imagine that. It has a water pump on it because the pump was on it when we got it and I don't have the inlet to replace the pump if I remove it. I've been told that the car might be less likely to overheat without the pump. Is it likely and worth a try? I'm not particularly concerned about the "correctness" of having or not having a pump. I've heard all that discussion before. I would just like to be able to drive the car without spewing steam and water every time we stop.Thanks.
You may want to check to see if the impeller on the pump is stuck or obstructed in some way. Also check to see if the impeller is loose or no longer connected to the pump shaft. You'll need to remove it to do this. Also look in the top of your radiator to see if the top baffle is still in place and not disconnected. The baffle is needed to direct the flow of water over the fins. It is hard to see even with a flashlight so I sometimes take a stiff wire and make a hook on one end and lower it into the radiator and hook it in one of the holes in the upper baffle to see if it moves. If it does it may be laying on top of the fins blocking flow.
Tommy I have an inlet for you...a nice one. $25 Plus postage..est. $9. Call/text 419-271-5405 or PM me
Tommy,in addition to the above.Right after you start the engine, look for bubbles in the coolant.And as it warms up.
Chance you have a compression leak.Gets worse as warms up.
Also, some folks stick a thermostat in the outlet. A stuck thermostat can cause overheating.
Are you possibly over-filling the radiator? If I overfill mine to a point higher than roughly 2 1/2" lower than the filler neck it will spit & barf too. Once the level gets down to the 2 1/2" mark it settles down and runs right.
I hate overheating threads.
My 19 overheated a bit with the original motor and more with a placement.
I added a water pump and it didnít help so I spent $800 of non existent funds to get a new radiator.
After reading a bunch of threads about overheating I am concerned that the new radiator will not fix the problem as recommended by a bunch of people.
Be careful about who you listen too.
Some are full of hot air and others know what they are talking about
Do you have a correct fan and pulley. Earlier fans use a smaller pulley which turns faster. More air.
I've been in your shoes Tommy!
I had a (wheel chock)/water pump yet no inlet elbow and I've paraded that poor old T with both "ears" UP and never a hot problem with a baking soda treatment old radiator. Oops, I have a different brand fan on that 24.
Now I have two inlets or more... I'm tempted to try mine with out the wheel chock. :-)
When I spit into the cold radiator, it moves at such a leisurely pace! Try it. What do you find? Bubbles?
With car up to temperature, grab the pipe coming from the bottom of the radiator to the engine, or pump, in your case. Can you hold, or is it too hot? A good radiator will cool the water to the point you should be able to hold onto that pipe, at least for several seconds, if not indefinitely. If you cant hold onto, the radiator is not doing its job.
You know guys? I am capable of writing better than that. Should have proof read better. By the time I noticed how bad that was, the edit period was over. Sorry, but hopefully it makes enough sense to see what I was trying to say.
I think I will leave it alone until the infrared temp gun that I have ordered comes and see what is going on. I will go ahead and buy an inlet and a shorter belt though for future use.
An overfilled Model T radiator barfing out the excess coolant is normal. It's not a sign of overheating. The same goes for a little gurgle after you shut off the engine. Boiling is not normal.
It may be worth what you're paying for it, but here's my take on Model T cooling: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html
Fred, have you driven the car with its new radiator?
Solution move here you still need a cardboard
If your radiator is an older or original round tube type that "looks good" it's probably part or all of the problem. They can fool you by looking good.
Forgive me if I offend by stating the obvious but you described nothing about the cooling systemís internals. Iíve seen large mouse nests INSIDE the coolant chambers of the block and head when T owners are so impatient to get a car running and driving. Also the spark advance after motor running?