Trailering tie downs - a photo thread

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Trailering tie downs - a photo thread
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 05:29 pm:

We frequently get questions about how to tie a car down for trailer transport. Each of us have fixed ideas on how to do this. Some methods commonly used are dangerous, many of us have worked out methods we feel are safe.

Yesterday I had occasion to tow my car so I took several photographs of how I tie the car down and am gopingto post some notes which should explain my preferences. This is not new ground for the forum and if you are bored by rehashing old information please feel free to exit out of this thread!

tie-down elelmets


Here are the elements I like to use: Basket strap with closing hook so it won't self disconnect. E-rail mounted on the trailer deck with a gap in the floor boards below so debris will not clog under the rail. Strap ratchets also with closing hook... this style has a locking closed position shown in the photo. An e-rail tie down loop which can be mounted or moved /removed in seconds.

worn


I also carry extra parts such as these straps retired because of the worn spot. I bought another basket strap to replace the damaged one, but the parts are good to have on hand.





Tie down points are positioned and clipped in thusly.



Strap is positioned next to wheel.



Installed and clipped down.



Ring is positioned and the strap tightened. This way the force of the strap tightens on the wheel without pulling the wheel along and over-stressing the wishbone to pan connection.



This is how it looks if you are careful to position the straps so they do not rub against the body which would cause the strap damage shown at the top.



I even make sure my winch cable and snatch block have closed hooks. This type of hook only cost pennies more than the unacceptable (to me) open hooks.

I buy my straps at swap meets but they can be had on line through vendors or e-bay. I have no interest in the sale of tie-downs or parts.

It is important to tie the car down safely so it stays on or in the trailer. It is also important that you do not impede the car from moving freely on it's springs... you want the wheels to stay put and the car to bounce over road shocks.

I put the car onto the trailer yesterday because I had driven to town and lost my low band. In a few minutes I tightened the band and discovered I had used up all the adjustment. I was faced with driving home late at night with a band which had no adjustment left. I chose to go on the trailer instead of risking loosing the last bit of low unexpectedly on a main road in the dark. The car drove easily up the ramps to the trailer so I probably would have been ok to drive home!

Stay tuned to MTFCA Forum 2018 as I will post how to change out a wooden band in my next photo dump!


IMHO, TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 05:36 pm:

Great post Terry!

I just installed a set of Guinn wood bands (and changed a cracked drum) based mostly on reviewing your old posts on the topic. Looking forward to the next post!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 06:26 pm:

I thought my wife sold my RPU as I looked at the photos! Whew, glad yours has a black top.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 07:49 pm:

Dan, sorry, I seem to be a bit late on the riveting wood bands post for your needs.

Dallas, your car looks far better than mine... where's your rust?

I just finished swapping in one replacement band, so I guess I can do that post soon! After that one I will do one on how I rivet bands. Find someone who runs Kevlar linings because using one of their broken drums as a mandrel saves having to make a mandrel!

TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By FreighTer Jim on Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 08:13 pm:

Terry,

Useful thread - thank you.

The risk of using the wheel on any car as a tie down point is:

On a car you are not familiar with and/or have not serviced or worked on yourself - if the wheel is not secured to the spindle - it can come loose - this can be a disaster on an open trailer if it leaves the trailer for the road - that could also happen in an enclosed trailer.

Granted this is a remote possibility - but ....,.

I recently transported an early Ford Letter Car about 2000 miles - when I got to the drop off it was noted the wheel was just about ran off the spindle - the axle was jacked up & the spindle nut was tightened before the car was unloaded.

I had not used that wheel or the other wheels as tie down points.

Just something to be aware of ....

Thank you for posting.

FJ


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 06:34 am:

How does the rail attach to the trailer? My trailer only has a cross member every 3 to 4 feet as I recall. It's been a while since I replaced the deck and don't recall just now. Is that close enough together? Currently, I tie the axles to the trailer frame directly. I've seen recessed D rings too, but was always worried about whether I could find a good place to put them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 12:15 pm:

FJ,

Yup, with all four wheels held down if you loose one there will be some damage, but the car will stick in place. Loose one wheel on a car held with open hooks and maybe not so much! I've seen people tying the body frame down to a trailer and cinching it tight. The car dances around and slams against the ties. That is hard on the car and straps.

I once took my 1913 to a tour, my tie-down method back then was to fasten the front axle down and to strap over the rear axle, under the drive shaft. I figured it held the car down and still allowed the body to float. When I got to the tour I got to ride in someone else's car because I had broken my torque tube at the pinion spool.


Hal,

You have spotted what I believe is the weakness. I am just bolted through the decking. On my last deck I also had it fastened to the cross bars of the frame, and plan to re-do that. I have read that you should fill every hole in the E-track with a bolt, but I think that is excessive for model T and lighter cars.


TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 10:38 pm:

Terry, Nice thread. I also like the tire baskets. Mine are similar to yours. The main difference is the top strap on mine is adjustable (green strap on yours). That makes it easy to get a good fit to different sizes of wheels. Yours seem to fit very good as to position. I also like the tie downs working as separate tie downs. That way even if a couple of them fail you still have something tying the car down. I have e-track in my enclosed trailer. The floor beams are two foot apart. I had a piece of flat bar the same width as the e-track installed under the e-track to close it off. Dirt in the e-track in an enclosed trailer is not a big problem, and I wanted the trailer sealed off. I just blow it out a couple times a year with compressed air. I had the e-track and flat bar welded to all the floor beams and also bolted to all the floor beams before the floor was installed. It is very solid. If you have problems with the straps hitting the body, there is a "strap idler" that lets the strap go straight down, then thru the idler, and pull straight toward the front or rear along the top of the e-track. They work great. I have bumpers on my 27 touring and they are right in the way of the straps. The idlers solve the problem. Ill try and find a pic of the strap idlers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 10:43 pm:

Here are the pics of the idlers, They cost about 10-12 dollars each and are all over e-bay sold by many different sellers.

1

2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Monday, May 14, 2018 - 07:25 am:

Thanks Terry. If my deck were tied better to the trailer frame, I wouldn't be too worried about attaching the rail to the wood, but my wood is only held down by a couple of self drilling screws every 4 feet or so. I do like your system.


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