We frequently get questions about how to tie a car down for trailer transport. Each of us have fixed ideas on how to do this. Some methods commonly used are dangerous, many of us have worked out methods we feel are safe.
Yesterday I had occasion to tow my car so I took several photographs of how I tie the car down and am gopingto post some notes which should explain my preferences. This is not new ground for the forum and if you are bored by rehashing old information please feel free to exit out of this thread!
Great post Terry!
I just installed a set of Guinn wood bands (and changed a cracked drum) based mostly on reviewing your old posts on the topic. Looking forward to the next post!
I thought my wife sold my RPU as I looked at the photos! Whew, glad yours has a black top.
Dan, sorry, I seem to be a bit late on the riveting wood bands post for your needs.
Dallas, your car looks far better than mine... where's your rust?
I just finished swapping in one replacement band, so I guess I can do that post soon! After that one I will do one on how I rivet bands. Find someone who runs Kevlar linings because using one of their broken drums as a mandrel saves having to make a mandrel!
Useful thread - thank you.
The risk of using the wheel on any car as a tie down point is:
On a car you are not familiar with and/or have not serviced or worked on yourself - if the wheel is not secured to the spindle - it can come loose - this can be a disaster on an open trailer if it leaves the trailer for the road - that could also happen in an enclosed trailer.
Granted this is a remote possibility - but ....,.
I recently transported an early Ford Letter Car about 2000 miles - when I got to the drop off it was noted the wheel was just about ran off the spindle - the axle was jacked up & the spindle nut was tightened before the car was unloaded.
I had not used that wheel or the other wheels as tie down points.
Just something to be aware of ....
Thank you for posting.
How does the rail attach to the trailer? My trailer only has a cross member every 3 to 4 feet as I recall. It's been a while since I replaced the deck and don't recall just now. Is that close enough together? Currently, I tie the axles to the trailer frame directly. I've seen recessed D rings too, but was always worried about whether I could find a good place to put them.
Yup, with all four wheels held down if you loose one there will be some damage, but the car will stick in place. Loose one wheel on a car held with open hooks and maybe not so much! I've seen people tying the body frame down to a trailer and cinching it tight. The car dances around and slams against the ties. That is hard on the car and straps.
I once took my 1913 to a tour, my tie-down method back then was to fasten the front axle down and to strap over the rear axle, under the drive shaft. I figured it held the car down and still allowed the body to float. When I got to the tour I got to ride in someone else's car because I had broken my torque tube at the pinion spool.
You have spotted what I believe is the weakness. I am just bolted through the decking. On my last deck I also had it fastened to the cross bars of the frame, and plan to re-do that. I have read that you should fill every hole in the E-track with a bolt, but I think that is excessive for model T and lighter cars.
Terry, Nice thread. I also like the tire baskets. Mine are similar to yours. The main difference is the top strap on mine is adjustable (green strap on yours). That makes it easy to get a good fit to different sizes of wheels. Yours seem to fit very good as to position. I also like the tie downs working as separate tie downs. That way even if a couple of them fail you still have something tying the car down. I have e-track in my enclosed trailer. The floor beams are two foot apart. I had a piece of flat bar the same width as the e-track installed under the e-track to close it off. Dirt in the e-track in an enclosed trailer is not a big problem, and I wanted the trailer sealed off. I just blow it out a couple times a year with compressed air. I had the e-track and flat bar welded to all the floor beams and also bolted to all the floor beams before the floor was installed. It is very solid. If you have problems with the straps hitting the body, there is a "strap idler" that lets the strap go straight down, then thru the idler, and pull straight toward the front or rear along the top of the e-track. They work great. I have bumpers on my 27 touring and they are right in the way of the straps. The idlers solve the problem. Ill try and find a pic of the strap idlers.
Here are the pics of the idlers, They cost about 10-12 dollars each and are all over e-bay sold by many different sellers.
Thanks Terry. If my deck were tied better to the trailer frame, I wouldn't be too worried about attaching the rail to the wood, but my wood is only held down by a couple of self drilling screws every 4 feet or so. I do like your system.