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By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 02:45 am:I probably should state in the title that this drawing is a steel felloe, but I figured that since it shows a one piece felloe that everybody would know it is steel felloe.
Let me know what you guys think. 
By Frank P Spatto on Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 07:36 am:I like what you are doing. The part numbers are a great tool to use, And like they always say a picture is worth a thousand words. keep up the good work. Frank Spatto
By Allan Bennett - Australia on Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 07:34 pm:Excellent illustration Martin, again. I get a little apprehensive about making comments on your efforts. It looks like I am being critical, and I certainly don't mean to be. Any suggestions I make are made in good faith and knowing that you like to get things just right.
On this drawing, the junction between the inner flange and the hub centre should show a generous radius. This in turn means the butt end of each spoke has a chamfer to clear this radius.
There is a practical reason for this radius. Sharp corners are stress risers. I have seen a number of rear hubs where the inner flange has broken or cracked at that point, even with the radius. On a tour one rear hub broke right around. The inner flange, the spokes and outer flange, as a unit were only held on the hub centre by the overly thick reproduction hubcap. Under brakes, coming down a steep hill from a lookout, the only brakes the driver had was the small drum emergency brake, and that was rendered useless, as in effect he had the same situation as one would have with a broken axle. He had a wild ride down that hill.
He reported the only damage done was to his underwear!
Allan from down under.
By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 04:50 am:Martin, I just noticed the hubcap thread. The long thread shown was used on the earlier cars. 19-25 had shorter threads and longer shoulder inboard.
Allan from down under.
By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 05:50 am:Ok, made some changes...
By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 08:14 am:That's clever Martin. I wondered how you would show it in a drawing.
Re the incident I related with the broken hub, all that stopped the whole wheel assembly coming off the hub was the thicker material used in the repro hub cap. The OD of the hubcap was greater than the ID of the hole in the outer plate. As it was, the outer plate had rolled the thread even tighter onto the hub. The only way we could get it off was to drive a screwdriver clear through the hubcap and use that as a cross bar to wrench it off.
Allan from down under.
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