1915 Roadster top installation?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: 1915 Roadster top installation?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 03:39 pm:

Yesterday I emailed some questions to Classtique. While I wait for a reply from Mike, I'll put them here in case somebody on the forum has enough experience with a Classtique top to answer some of them.


1 Even though the top labeled here (yellow) is facing front when the bow is on the car, it's still the top, and the tacks go on the front (green) side, right?


2 The 58" piece of vinyl with two seams is the windshield flap, right?
3 The two straps are not mentioned in the parts list, but I gather they're for the roll-up back. Correct?


4 The rear vertical measurement of 25½" is the only one which matches the diagram. Is that OK?


5 With the main socket vertical (see previous picture), the front bow is 2½" in front of the windshield frame. Is that OK, or is 2½" too much?


6 It's a bit out of focus, but the picture shows the distance between the back of the bow and the back of the seat is ¼". Does the bow need to be farther toward the rear?

7 If I lean the main socket back a little, that will reduce the gap between the front bow and the windshield, increase the distance between the front two bows, and put the rear bow farther behind the back of the seat. Is that advisable, or should I leave things as they are?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 03:48 pm:

Found elsewhere on the forum - I'm pretty sure that the middle bow should be vertical, that somewhat constrains the possible positions of the other two bows. :-)


pic


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 04:14 pm:

This diagram is Feb. 1922, but shows good ref. dimensions. Wouldn't be too specific on the actual measures, you want the top to 'look' correct. So all sides the same for the irons, and overhangs approx. Be sure your chassis is level too.








For the front bow, that is wrapped in vinyl, (or rain flap, depending on style) and tacks go in the center line of outside facing the radiator. Then the top cover wraps over and tacked to hide the tacks of the bow wrap. So put the tacks on the 'Yellow' marked bow side.

The vinyl piece is the cover for the front bow (rain flap). The two straps are for the roll up window. Put those on prior to the top cover.


That way the top cover is stapled or tacked along the same lines, covering the first row for the bow wrap staples, and then all is finished covered with bias tape or Hidem. (later car shown)




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 04:37 pm:

Forgot to add, that while top covering can be fun, I tend to walk away and let the mind and hands rest! If you tackle it with a time schedule, things don't go well in haste.



On the assembly line, the body was on slide rails so easy to reach the top and sent it to the next man on the line! When by yourself, just take time on this job.


IMO, the worst part is wrapping the wood bows with the cotton drill. That material is cut on bias so wrap it and stretch it to get the wrinkles out from the inside curves of the bows. That is hard work to me. After you tack the drill, then spray with water and that will dry and allows the wrinkles to shrink.

Have removed a few old wrappings and found that Ford used a narrow and thin felt over the sharp edge of the wood bow to cushion the top material from wear. Good idea. As the tacks for the bow drill should be hidden by the top cover, but not in a place where the tack heads rub the top cover when the top is up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 04:47 pm:

I usually check out Dauntless Geezer. He usually has a how to on what Im working on.
He He He!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Mills_Cherry Hill NJ on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 09:58 pm:

Steve,

I usually only comment on stuff I've been through personally. I'm going to offer some half-baked comments since I'm senile and don't remember things...maybe my remark will spark someone to explain it further. I last did a '15 Roadster top maybe a dozen or so years ago, followed the instructions and what sounded good, let it get good and warm, had it all sag and bag by the next day! The forum gave me the following advice (more or less)

- The rear bow really should have crossed lathe strips to hold the dimension. They attach to the nailing strip. You start tugging, the whole thing can rack...

- There was something about putting a 1x or a 2x at the windshield to front bow gap, add web straps/pads, add cover 'tight enough' and then when you pull down the straps and hook the hinge 'taunt' will be just right?

-Always put tacks in only halfway until all is adjusted to your liking, only then send them home

- Do pay attention to the tightness of the side over the vertical bow. Trying to add stretch and nail it with a nail after all else is done 'might' leave a bag.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 10:36 pm:

Steve, Dan shows the way my trimmer does it. The hidem strip across the front bow covers the edge of the top panel and the wind/rain flap.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Sommers on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 10:56 pm:

Steve,
Regarding bow wrapping... the instructions I had said to apply spray adhesive to the top of the bow, stretch it around the bow, including the inside radius, and then staple it at the top. I found that spraying the adhesive on the inside radius of the bow as opposed to the outside, adhering the fabric, stretching it around to the outside edge, and then stapling it produced a wrap on the inside that was ABSOLUTELY wrinkle-free.

Of course, rapping while you are doing it also helps...

Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Thursday, May 24, 2018 - 10:57 am:

A correct 1915 top should NOT have a rain flap. They did not include a rain flap from the factory.

The bow drill (wrapping) is cut on the bias so it does not pucker at the curves.

The bow drill on the first bow is thin leatherette. It is tacked on the bow and slightly overlaps if at all. A minimal amount of tacks are used and the tacks are nailed to you what you refer to as the top (in yellow) in your first photo. Although this method involves tacks, the tacks are not exposed and to do not rest agains the top material.

On a roadster top, the cloth bow drill on the second and third bows are sewn. The seam is on what you refer to as the top (in yellow). Tacks are not used to install the cloth bow drill. The reason being any exposed staples or tacks between the bow drill and the top material will eventually wear holes through the top material.

Some folks install one side of the cloth bow drill with tacks, wrap it around the bow, double over the other end of the bow drill and lay it over the tacks and then sew it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Thursday, May 24, 2018 - 11:11 am:

One thing I see from Steve's pictures is the top material is wrong, and it has a roll up rear curtain, which '15s never had. Classtique has the correct top material available. Whatever you want to do is you business. I've done a few tops, and the bottom line is take your time, look at old photos, and when you reach a point where things just don't seem to be going right, go in the house and have a beer!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael T Cox on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 08:51 pm:

How wide are the 26-27 top irons from each side of body? and from windshield to back of seat? Going to put top on a 25 tt truck. I have called every t model dealer there is and no one has any sizes but langs got me a size off a 1923-25 and it came close to working. no one has the top irons in stock. i can get the 1926 27 irons My windshield is 39 1/4 and wood body out side is 46 1/2. 52'' from windshield to back of seat


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael T Cox on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 09:02 pm:

How wide are the 26-27 top irons from each side of body? and from windshield to back of seat? Going to put top on a 25 tt truck. I have called every t model dealer there is and no one has any sizes but langs got me a size off a 1923-25 and it came close to working. no one has the top irons in stock. i can get the 1926 27 irons My windshield is 39 1/4 and wood body out side is 46 1/2. 52'' from windshield to back of seat


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 09:27 pm:

The tacks all go in from the top, except for the front bow, which should go in from the front. Don't forget to install the bowdrill on the bias, and that includes the top material on the front bow. I usually use a little contact cement to help things along.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 09:29 pm:

I almost forgot. Buy some round toothpicks, and some glue, and plug all those old tack holes.


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