I recently obtained a 1927 Roadster with a Holley Vaporizer Carb that I believe to be original to the T. I found on the Forum some great drawings by Martin Vowell (also in Langs catalog). I have disassembled most of the parts to try to clean them. The one part I have not been able to remove is the 6283 Vaporizer adjusting needle seat. I tried heating the body around the seat but the seat did not come out easily. I did not want to do more damage with out asking for help.
Has anyone come up with a special tool or special method to help with removal of this seat?
Does anyone have a list of thread sizes for cleaning the threads?
I do not have any experience with vaporizer carburetors. Any help with adjustments when starting, after starting, and when driving will be appreciated. The previous owner indicated that he had to open the carburetor about 3 turns to get it to start.
I want to try to clean/repair as needed so I can keep the original carburetor. Any help will be appreciated.
I sure ain't no expert but I'll gladly share what little I know! :-) Most is from this forum and these guys. Some of these fellas know a lot about the Vaporizer.
I find these carbs are really forgiving in some situations and very fussy in others. I swear that when choking mine once I saw a slosh of gas coming out of the primary tube where it enters the top of the bowl casting. He started right up and ran so... ??? A forgiver.
3 turns to start is quite a bit. I have my TT set at about 1-1/4 for running and 1-1/2 to start. I (or a buddy) hand cranks the TT.
I find they're fussy with the adjustment. A 1/4 turn with a Vaporizer is a bit more extreme compared to the NH. Fussy.
Float setting is a KEY issue they say. 3/16" to 1/4" from the machined flange to the top of the float.
Machined flange: Where the bowl gasket is supposed to be. ;-)
Installing a bowl on ANY carb? Check to see the float is free to move back and forth (up and down) with the bowl on.
Seems kind of silly but some carbs have been found lately that something is tweaked and the float drags on the side of the bowl. True.
I've gently rocked the carb back and forth and listened to the clink-clunk of the float since I was a kid. Musta had a dragger back then that flummoxed me...
Did you get the 6286 spray needle out? I'm ready on one Vapo-carb but haven't tried it. And wonder WHY I should replace it. It is suggested. Corrosion I bet.
Some have gotten good results removing the 6283 seat or similar parts in the NH, with generous heat and a cold water quench.
I do not know the how much's. :-)
ALL mating surfaces should be as perfect as possible. Air leaks are the Vaporizer's enemy. True.
For a BS session about the Vaporizer, see this thread. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/793414.html?1512195468
That thread ain't done yet. There's more to come.
A good sealer for the mating parts: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield -fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/
I need to look harder for better links. ;-) Look for Vaporizer carburetor. I 'spect you already have. :-)
Here are some drawings from Mr. Vowell that may be helpful.
Sorry I guess I should have a second cup of coffee before posting...I see you already have these drawings as I reread you post.
My 1926 T has a Holley Vaporizer as well. It seems to be starving for fuel when i go from low to high gear and really struggles even on level ground, low gear seems to be fine. It is likely that it sat will fuel in it for years before i got it. I'd like to get a rebuild kit, take it apart and clean it up but i have no idea what to get. Any suggestions of what sort of a kit i want? Any rebuild tips?
Some fellas find the lower gasket for the bowl (bowl seal washer for the drain cock) to be inside the bowl instead of outside.
Note this and do the the same if you replace it.
No way you bird, Denny! IF we have drawings in front of us? I find it's easier! Thank you!
Here's a few more!
Note: The orange bowl nut/drain cock assy has an opening/straight thru on top. It's supposed to be closed.
The last one is for flow purposes. Very helpful to me!
If another fella doesn't give us a parts list right quick, I'll dare type one out but I gotta get back out to the T shop.
Maw wants ME to take her for a ride in the '18 Tin Cup Runabout tomorrow in between rain showers!
She had said before she didn't want to go since it isn't painted and doesn't have a top on it yet!
Somehow, she has changed her female mind... :-) I hear bells ringing. :-/ Ding ding. aling
How long is the screw for the air flap stop supposed to be? Mine seems long to me.
I did some measuring here and find 10-32? X 3/4? on an "original" that I busted the head of the screw off of trying to get it out.
It never would've screwed out anyway, I find. :-/ :-)
?? 10-32 X 3/4"
Shoot. I put one in my running TT's Vapo carb (twas missing) and can't remember/didn't pay enough attention. I think the size above.
Runs pretty nice! I'll check it if you'd like. :-)
If there's interest yet in a parts list, I'll get to it. :-) It's pretty simple. Shipping is more expensive. :-)
I'll share what little I know! :-)
Everybody's busy. :-)
Vaporizer's matter. Odd/maligned ducks that they are.
If interested. :-) Always a day late and a dollar short.
Quick and dirty parts list.
6200V Holley set.
6200VFORD Ford set.
6200KV Kingston set.
6273 Heating plate.
6276 Primary air tube.
6277 Heating coil (Heating plate support spring, copper).
6269 Outlet tube. IF! you forget to look and remove the little screw that's one step closer to the throttle from the 6263-S air flapper screw set. :-) I did just that and ruined the poor thing.
How's your outlet tube nut? 6271
IF you wish:
These are Lang's numbers. Go lookin' for other supplier's too!
Thanks for all of the information so far. I hope that I have not missed the answer to my next question.
When rebuilding Holley NH carburetors, there are three air passages that need to be cleaned. They have brass plugs/threaded plugs that need to be drilled out and the airways cleaned. One is behind the nameplate on some NH's.
ARE THERE ANY HIDDEN AIR PASSAGE WAYS ON A VAPORIZER THAT NEED TO BE CLEANED IN A SIMILAR WAY? (Sorry for the caps)
Two suggestions after 16 years and 26000 miles:
1. Carry a spare heating plate. They last maybe 4 years and then you suddenly get spitting and bad running when they perforate or crack.
2. Mine will always but ONLY start from cold after turning 4 compressions with full choke, ignition off first.