Would this ball bearing be a suitable replacement (cut and weld as discussed in a previous thread) for my wishbone?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-1-1-4-Inch-GR25-Precision-Chrome-Steel-Ball-Bearing -Ball-52100-Steel/292055907291?hash=item43ffe37bdb:g:orEAAOSw32lYyF3C:sc:USPSFir stClass!10025!US!-1

Previous discussion:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/835794.html?1518269920

There are soft steel balls that will not need to be annealed before you can drill them. I am working on fixing wishbone. Pm me for more info. Dan

There are only three way I would do this job. 1; build up and shape, 2; machine down the ball on the wishbone and leave a stub, drill the ball for press fit on the stub and weld both sides(like they do now for balls on Model A steering arms, but that is for a side to side not pull like the radius rod) or 3; buy the wish bone ball replacement kit from the part suppliers. The welding, not sure how that would work between the two materials, SS and forged steel? It also depends on the condition of the socket.

Gene, I have yet to find a soft steel ball the same size as the radius rod ball. If you can buy them, you could use the same process I use to fix early pitman arm balls.

I use an angle grinder to grind two flats on opposite sides of the ball, just 1/2" apart. then I grind two more flats so I have a 1/2" square. From there I grind the corners off and file the rest into round. This is then tapped for a 1/2" fine thread. The 1/2" thread is still bigger than the neck on the arm, so there is no weakening of the part.

I use straight shank tie rod balls for the pitman arms, held in the lathe, drilled for tapping and hand tapped while still in the lathe. You can use whatever ball you can buy that suits the purpose.

The ball is then screwed onto the pitman arm and welded on the outer end to make it captive.

The early pitman arms are much lighter than the available repros, and this is a good way to save them and have the correct part.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.