They're smaller than #6, but I cant's tell if they're #5 or #4.
They're too delicate not to have extras, so I need more.
Steve, I have hoarded as many raised head countersunk slot headed screws as I can lay my hands on. 5g x 5/8" or 3/4" seem to have the best fit in the holes on the bases of the fasteners. 4g will do, but they sit lower in the hole and are more delicate to use. I always drill a pilot hole for them, as small brass screws are easy to screw off like the one you show.
Allan from down under.
I like to use Stainless steel screws here. They look like a nickel plated screw. If you are using brass fasteners and screws, put the stainless steel in first to put threads into the wood, then replace the SS screw with your brass screw along with your fear of twisting off the head.
Oval head, #5 or 6 x 5/8" depending on mfgr.
: ^ )
It is best, as several people said, drill a pilot hole, then dip the end of the screw into some liquid dishwashing liquid before screwing it in. Works for me. Frank
I broke three before I figured out the right drill size. I like the dish soap idea.
You can also use wax on the threads. I find it lasts longer than dish soap. The least expensive and easiest to use is a toilet wax sealing ring. Most of them have a plastic neck i.e. their own holder or you can squish them into an old deodorant dispenser. The kind you can turn the knob on the bottom to raise the product. These are nice as they have a cap to keep the wax cleaner.
To figure out what size pilot drill you need, take a caliper and measure the shaft diameter between the threads. Then choose a bit one or two sizes smaller than your measured diameter. One size for softer materials, two sizes for harder materials.
This may not apply to this particular case, but using soap on steel screws tends to cause rusting. Wax is good, so is old Crisco that's past its expiration date. I've heard of old timers using bacon grease, which probably smells nicer, at least until it goes rancid.
Steve, to address your original question, here is a chart I keep over my fastener cabinets in my shop. It's made for wood screws but the head size specs are the same for machine screws.
I think if you click on it, it will open up and you can view it.
img20180611_10164993.pdf (120.9 k)
I don't think Ford used lift the dot fasteners, except possibly on the 26-7 models. The common sense fasteners used prior to that time use a #5 oval head wood screw. I can't give the length here because I'm out of town.
I was surprised by "Dot" also. I found that DOT is a trade name and Scovill uses it and sells some common sense fasteners. I too have puzzled about screw size but don't have an answer.
There are two types of fasteners in use which are associated with Dot. The current common sense fasteners used on early cars have the DOT pressed into the top of the turn button. I suspect that is why Steve calls the DOT fasteners. Old style units do nor have the DOT on the turn button.
Lift-the-dot fasteners came later as Larry indicated. They have the male stud threaded in place and the fastener is fitted into the fabric. The lift-the-dot is stamped into the body of the female part of the setup. These are still freely available, but my trimmer expects to replace some as they do nor work as reliably as the originals.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Around here the old folding rule carpenters always had a cube of bees wax to put on their awl, screws, bits and hand saw. And donít even think about using their hand saw-too much danger of some young kid kinking it. They would take their saw home at night and touch it up, those saws would just glide through wood.
Allan is correct. I was going by the name on the fasteners. A bit of research tells me that they're common sense fasteners, sometimes called Murphy or Murphy style (Murphy being a brand name).
The Murphy's had an M on each piece. Many parts get nicknames and makes it interesting when we talk about them.