How to seal sediment bulb

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: How to seal sediment bulb
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Chady on Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 08:17 pm:

I bought a new lead gasket to seal my sediment bulb but trying to tighten it down, the gasket cracked. It never came close to sealing. I'll order another one, but do you guys have any other tips?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 10:11 pm:

Order several, they have a long shelf life. Also make sure the mating surfaces are smooth. If rough or pitted it will be nearly impossible to seal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alan Long Western Australia on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 12:28 am:

I use both a copper gasket / seal ring plus a small amount
of liquid thread tape to seal this area. On the valve spindle
I have found lead packing works well.
Alan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 08:24 am:

Back in the 60s, in a little town in West Texas we made almost every gasket used. For something like a sediment bulb, kite string coated with aviation permatex was the fix. Hang the string like a clothes line , coat it with permatex the next day make several raps above the male threads, screw it on tight and your good to go. Worked on rear ends too. The down side, permatex on your hands lasted a long time too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 09:33 am:


Thick gasket paper from the local auto parts store works fine. Easy peasy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Codman on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 09:39 am:

The thread and Permatex thing will work well, but be sure that when you wrap it above the male threads, you wrap it so that when you screw it together, the friction will tighten rather then loosen the string. It may seem obvious, but I hate to think how many times I have started to install thread tape the wrong way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 09:43 am:

What Steve Jelf did! Simple, easy, efficient.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 10:09 am:

I have rebuilt many sediment bulbs, and have never had a problem with the lead gasket. From the looks of the outlet cap, perhaps there is a problem there?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 10:30 am:

Don't forget for the valve parts

EZ Turn

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php?clickkey=218206


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 10:34 am:

Also I use Seal-All on the threads, gas & oil resistant.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/seal-all-contact-adhesive-and-sealant-380112 /7010007-P


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 12:31 pm:

Alan Long,

Could you please elaborate on how you use lead packing on the valve stem? Or did I misunderstand? What form does this lead packing come in and where do you place it? All the ones I have seen are just a bronze on cast iron taper and they are sometimes a real pain to get to quit leaking. I am VERY interested in any new tricks to solve this problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 01:10 pm:

I don't see how a lead gasket would crack since they are fairly soft and not brittle. But I guess anything is possible. I have used several over the years with no problem. But again there is also a first time. If both surfaces are flat and don't have any burrs it seems to me it should work

I did have one that was a little tight going over the screen end.
I got a small pen knife and trimmed the ID just enough to not have to force it over. Worked fine after that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Keppler, Fredon NJ on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 06:32 pm:

Just use valve lapping compound on the tapered valves, works beautiful, nice and smooth


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Keppler, Fredon NJ on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 06:38 pm:

Steve is that screen from Langs? If so what is the part # Thanks Doug


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 09:36 pm:

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2903BSC.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Keppler, Fredon NJ on Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 07:20 am:

If the inlet screen is used does one install the outlet screen also?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 08:48 am:

The outlet screen is already part of the sediment bulb. It's installed at the factory.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Keppler, Fredon NJ on Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:03 am:

That screen was turned to dust in mine when I took it apart. I guess it's a yes to install both since you have both Steve
Doug


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