Trying to figure out how the terminal block is supposed to go on the firewall of my 1927. The new repro has two bolt holes, but the firewall has three. The furthest two line up with the two in the terminal block. the bolts are smaller than the holes in the firewall, and not long enough to put nuts on them. So how do I do it? Am I missing a mounting piece?

The authentic reproduction styles mount same as original, two coarse thread single slot round head screws. Heads on inside of firewall/cowl. The material is soft so a coarse thread is needed.

Don't know about the replacement version offered, have only used the better quality repros.

Oh, that's why, heads are supposed to go on the inside. Makes a lot more since now! Should have thought of that...

All the screws on original terminal blocks are the same. #9X 1/2 RH slotted.

My original terminal block was some sort of pressed fibre held in with wood screws from behind, while my new one is a modded rubber with nuts somehow buried within it to take machine screws from the back side of the firewall.

I think the original might be made of Fordite.

The rubber ones were made sometime in the '60s. Even though they worked, they didn't look correct, so we took a NOS original and started making copies of that original. To date, we've sold over 1000 of them.

Do they come with fuses ?

Do your terminal blocks look like this one.

Who sells yours Larry?

You'll need a helper. Two screws on the inside of the cowl. Unless you have a left arm that is two feet longer.
This is an original style I git from one of the vendors

The two mounting screws and holes are just below where the switch harness goes through the firewall. you can just make out one in the pic.



WORD OF CAUTION !!! You will see where I have hooked up the red Magneto wire to the Batt. terminal. Since I do not have a Magneto on this car, this is so my ing. switch will work on batt. or mag. at switch. IF you have a working Magneto, don't hook it up this way or you might drain the magnets !!!

Dont worry George, I know! Did manage to get it installed a few days ago by myself! Its on a speedster with a roadster cowl so didnt have to reach past any doors or anything, so had it much easier than most, hahaha.

If you have decent wires like George shows there is no need for fuses. 10 fuses on a model T makes for an electrical problem going some place to happen.
Those fuse holders corrode and cause problems.
I would disconnect each bottom wire and connect it with the top wire.
The eye fittings together under a screw will not get corroded between them.
If you must have a fuse put a 30 amp just in the wire coming from the battery cable on the starter switch. Or in the hot wire going to the light switch if you worry about head or tail lights shorting out.

George’ s block looks very T authentic. I have seen several of that type.
If you look at the picture of his junction block you will see three wires on the screw on our right side of the picture.
When I rewire a car I cut the fittings off the two bottom wires and put them both in one fitting that has a larger tube so it will hold both wires. That makes only two connections under the screw instead of three.
Even better, use a round eyelet fitting instead of an open one.
Same on the two center ones.
Look at the one third from left... four wires!
Do it my way and you only have two connections.

Bob Bergstadt had them NOS, but I don't know if he still does.