I finally bought myself a 14 foot trailer. I am trying to decide the best way to attach tie downs to the trailer to strap in the car. I could use Etrack or I could install a few O rings in strategic areas, but that would require drilling through all the trailer supports and increase the chance of a lot of rust.
What have you done, or what would you recommend?
This picture was taken Friday after the etrac system
I designed was installed at Colony Cargo LLC.
This is the the first FJ Custom Enclosed Car Hauler trailer built
that was completely designed by me - free of charge.
It will be used to transport early antique electric cars.
This 30 foot trailer has surface mount etrac bolted thru
the wood floor every 4 feet - there are 3/4 “ rubber mats
installed between the etrac - this combination gives a
heavy duty cushioned floor that incorporates flush mount
etrac - the floor mats are easily removed if replacement
One of several custom features I designed.
I am planning to have this trailer at the MTFCA National
Tour & Homecoming next month.
I should have said my new trailer is an open trailer. I also thought Etrack went from front to back, or can they be used both ways?
20 years ago when i installed D rings i placed them over the floor supports and used long bolts with 1/4" flat stock under the floor supports.When it was done i had the underside undercoated.I like the door on each side as pictured.Bud.
Whatever works best for your needs.
36" wide x 72" tall doors with folding steps installed in line on passenger & curb side allows access to tie down the front car without an escape door.
Definitely go with e-track, recessed or flush mounted. In my 22' enclosed trailer I had mine installed lengthwise the entire length of the 18' rectangular box. Works well for tying down the Model T and any other stuff I'm hauling like snowmobiles or four wheelers. Looks like cow pads on the floor of Jim's trailer. On mine we are going to install masonite. Its tough, holds up to scrapes pretty well, and can be replaced as needed. Its also handy to staple some cardboard down the center to deal with drips and escaped grease.
FJ,do i see a hole for the winch cable? Bud.
In the center up front is a chase for wiring - that bright aluminum cover at floor level might be what you are referring to.
Because the new owner has specific relatively light hauling needs - I am installing a lighter Harbor Freight winch.
Those are horse stall mats - 4 ft. x 6 ft. - installed upside down so the grooves are up top
to catch fluids - they stay in place by etrac placement and are easily replaced if cut or damaged
by oil - gas - gear oil.
I use large shallow mortar mixing tubs filled with cat litter to catch spills on vehicles that leak.
Dave, I would definitely recommend Etrack. Mine were installed lengthwise. The tracks are located specifically for my T, but as they are longer then is needed for the T they can be used for other antique cars that will fit inside a 16 - foot trailer. I use two tie-downs in the front with over the frame straps, and two more in the back that are hooked to one Etrac in the center. The car cannot move either side to side nor front to back. For a little insurance, I have a transverse block bolted through the floor into the floor supports positioned so as to keep the car from moving forward. This system works well and has survived one panic stop on I-95 in Jacksonville, FL. The T stayed put.
Just got back from a tour that finished at the top of a awesome view of a great valley. I had three plus gallons of fuel in the '25 2dr sedan and almost made it to the finish before the engine quit. After getting assistance to the top and back to level we got into the enclosed trailer under it's own power. Tied down to the Etracks and went uphill to turn around to come back down the hill and go home. When I got home I checked and the '24 had not moved one bit to the front, rear or side. I love those Etracks. The trailer had been used to move A's, T's and a Maxwell over the years.
I have two E-tracks run lengthwise just inside the track for the tires. I use a plastic parking curb that I routered slots in the bottom of the parking curb so that it sets over the E-track and sets firmly on the floor of the trailer. I then attached two narrow pieces of wood to the front of the parking curb so that they fit down into the slots of the E-track. Once I determined the optimum position of the T in the trailer for weight distribution, I placed the parking curb at that location, and marked the slots in the E-track where the wood pieces go into. I can now just drive the car into the trailer up to the parking curb and it is in the proper location. I use one strap on each side over the front axle and pull it tight against the parking curb. Since it is pulling the tires against the curb, it is not trying to pull the wishbone out of the socket. I then use a strap on each side over the rear axle pulling back. I have covered many thousands of miles this way and it has never moved a bit.
In my 8.5' x 27' vee-nose enclosed trailer, I installed two different types of E-track. I installed the conventional type of E-track 56" apart to match the "tread" width of Model T & Model A Fords and they run fore & aft for the full length of the trailer. More versatile than D-rings I think. The other type of E-track has the slots running vertical,....that is to say, in line with the length of the E-track instead of crosswise. I installed a pair of these vertical E-tracks vertically,.....that is,....floor to ceiling, 42" apart on the walls on opposite sides of the trailer towards the front of the trailer. This allows me to have vertically adjustable bunk beds, top & bottom, or bottom bunk and top shelf for storage, or top bunk and bottom workbench, or,......well, you get the idea,.....pretty versatile, depending how I'm using the trailer,...i.e. car hauling, car storage, workshop, etc, etc. For what it's worth,......harold
Oops,....forgot to mention a good use I found for the cut-off short pieces of E-track. Mounted on the wall, these make a great place/method for storing your various basket type tie-down straps and various types of E-track D-rings and accessories,.......harold
My trailer, bought used, has D rings. Get etrack, but run it the length of the trailer, front to back. I will next time. IMHO. Cheers, Bill
If the trailer bed is 14 foot 2x6's, and you run e-track the length of the trailer, which means the e-track is only attached to two 2x6's, how much force is being exerted on the two boards? Then the rest of the bed really is not doing all that much? I see that the bed is only attached to the trailer frame every 3 feet.
Would that mean it would be better to lay the e-track perpendicular to the boards so the stress is on every board?
Can you post a picture? Bud.
What is the rating on the Etrack when the pull is sideways like installed in the picture? I would have to think it is less than lengthwise. What is the load rating on the Etrack? Shouldn't you use all the holes to get the maximum rating? Asking because I couldn't find the answers from the sales sites.
I assume that question is directed at me ?
It doesn’t matter which direction you pull on the fittings installed in the etrac - mounting etrac across the width
of the trailer allows for greater versatility in cargo management.
Kinedyne etrac has a 50K lb. rating when all the holes are utilized - the installation shown has the etrac centered over
the floor structural members which are 12” on center.
FJ, looking to learn something here. My gut tells me that running e-track front to back the length of the trailer would give maximum load flexibility. You say side to side. I do not do this for a living, so can you educate me on why side to side is better? Thanks much, Bill
PS I will pm you for your trailer design. Mighty nice of you to do this!
With the etrack mounted horizontally don’t you also have a twist in the strap? Unless you have another link in the strap that changes the orientation. Lots of questions.
dave I think you should be placing metal plates under the 2x6's so the load is spread over several instead of just the 1 bolted to.
Etrac mounted lengthwise across the width of the trailer
gives the most cargo management options.
Etrac fittings are round or semi circle.
I see the advantages now, thanks FJ.
If you are hauling one or two specific vehicles only - never anything else ....
If you are using wheel baskets over the wheels - then mounting etrac in line with your particular vehicle is a custom choice ....
When I hauled the 1915 Stanley Steam Mountain Wagon earlier this year - Mark flew in from Connecticut with custom made wheel baskets made from fire hose.
But they were part of a custom etrac layout specifically for that vehicle so they could not be used.
I have hauled just about everything over the years.
I design my custom enclosed car hauler trailers
and my etrac layout to meet a variety of challenges.
Just a recommendation on the stall matts being used.
We use these for our horse stalls and trailer. The best price we've found on these is at TSC.
That is where I told Colony Cargo to buy the mats you see in the trailer - $40.99 each - sometimes they go on sale.
They are made from recycled material.
Those mats are also good to put down in what would be a dirt floor barn-shop so you can work in a cleaner more comfortable environment.My neighbor uses them in his 30x40 shop,put pea gravel down then mats .He works for the local farm store and got them at cost.Tractors and such don't hurt them at all.
I am at a standstill on refurbishing my tandem trailer but I watch threads like this for education.
I have got the "catwalk" welded in.It is 7.5 inch wide strips of 1 inch thick cat walk material I welded the full length of the trailer. Using the T's wheel width,that is the narrowest point.2 rows of it the full length of the trailer for the vehicle to be setting on. I decided not to trust wood since the original floor rotted in such a short tie.
I will use ground contact grade treated lumber for the rest of it.
That must be a early Fairbanks Morse Dishpan to have the crank guard.Mine was meant for a cement mixer and did not have 1.It had a full sheet metal cover with service doors on it.