Modern Foot Starter Switch

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Modern Foot Starter Switch
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 11:29 am:

I have one of the “better” modern style foot starter switches installed on my ‘23 Touring. (https://www.modeltford.com/item/5014RE.aspx)

I was under the car last night inspecting things and found that the source terminal stud on the switch could be slightly wiggled. I have had problems recently where I turn the car to battery to start and when the foot switch is pressed, the coils stop buzzing and the starter doesn’t engage. It seems like the switch may be grounding out.

Since I cannot easy remove the starter bracket, I want to just replace the switch. I found this one which apparently is “better quality”. Can anyone confirm whether this is the same switch that is installed on the assembly available from suppliers?

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC4015Premium-Heavy-Duty-Manual-Starter-Switch-B ase-Mount

Note they also have a “cheaper” one that looks similar.

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC066-6-volt-starter-push-switch

I also know from this forum that there is a footswitch available from TSC. But I can’t tell if it’s the “better quality” or the “cheaper one”. I also can’t find anywhere where it says it’s USA made like the T parts suppliers say.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-starter-switch-dr405c

Hoping maybe someone has experience with tracking down the proper replacement switch and can give me some guidance.

NOTE: YES, I know that the original Ford switch is bullet proof and serviceable. But for several reasons not explained here, I cannot easily swap out the bracket!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 12:22 pm:

The link to Lang's switch indeed has "Made in USA" - it's the only one I'll use !

Some body styles are not "user friendly" when removing the starter switch but it can be done - we have a Centerdoor and one bolt goes in from the bottom and the other down, I believe.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Manuel, Lafayette, La. on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 12:22 pm:

On my '23 runabout the bracket is held on with two bolts-easy to remove. If it is the bent clip type just straighten them out, tighten the studs and put it back together. Whole process only takes a few minutes even taking the time to clean the contacts. I had ordered a new switch and didn't see the need to use it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 12:43 pm:

Steve - That switch assembly is just the switch installed in a custom bracket. I guess what I’m really trying to find out is if they are saying the actual switch is Made In USA, or is the switch bracket made and assembled in the USA? Guess I’ll have to call them. I’m trying to find the best quality replacement switch. I don’t need another bracket.

Since I expect others to ask why I can’t just remove the switch bracket, here’s the ugly details. The original switch was apparently RIVETED to the frame at the attachment point for the running board bracket, not BOLTED as some later cars were. The original bracket was missing/cut off. Back when I was restoring the car, I knew less and was less adventurous, so instead of removing the rivet to install a new bracket, I drilled another hole in the frame to put a bolt through. So, yes, I could remove the bracket. And yes, I could install a Ford switch. But it would require me modifying it to work with the current setup and cutting a notch to go around the rivet. You asked!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 12:25 pm:

Well I took off the switch last night for inspection. I must have the higher quality switch because it can be disassembled and is constructed much like the original Ford switch. I do not see anything here that would indicate that my switch is an issue, so back together it went.

Photos below for somone’s future reference when they search on the topic.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 05:16 pm:

Dan, I have been using that switch on my T for a bunch of years because I had continual problems with the original design (repop I think) ones. Last summer it failed and I pried it open and wire brushed the contacts. It is working again. If it ever gets trashed it is easy to get another and takes two minutes to change out. The one you show is a good quality and will long outlast the cheap design of the Ford one (in my experience).

Since originality is no longer an issue I suggest you do what I did... I hid a solenoid inside the frame rail so the starter switch fires the low amperage signal to the solenoid which then completes the circuit. Running the high amp 6V through the switch will eventually destroy it. A small advantage is that the solenoid has a little button on the top which I can use to fire the starter when I have the floorboards out... an occasional thing at best.

TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 09:23 am:

Thanks Terry! I can definitely see the advantage of that setup. I also took this as an opportunity to finally install a fuse on the yellow hot wire coming off the switch.


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