Hand Brake moves into neutral

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Hand Brake moves into neutral
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Albert Belling on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 06:09 pm:

My hand brake moves back into neutral when I push the low pedal in neutral at a stop sign. What do I need to adjust? Thanks Al


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 06:30 pm:

Sounds like the paul and ratchet are worn or missadjusted brake rods putting to much pressure on the lever.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 07:52 pm:

Also - weak, broken or missing spring in handle/grip.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris from Long Beach, CA on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 08:46 pm:

There are four adjustments on the clutch and handbrake system. If the holes get wallowed out and allow for slop it is impossible to adjust them correctly for both actions. The first picture shows where to adjust them and the second photograph shows the two points of wear where the holes will have to be either welded up and re drilled or enlarged and replaced with larger diameter fittings. The arrow on the far right shows the place where the bolt and jam nut for the clutch cam are attached. Sometimes that bolt gets bent and other times the head of the bolt gets worn down too far for adjustment and need replacement. Some of those parts can be replaced but reworking them is more fun.

If the hand brake lever jumps out of its position too easily as was said above . . . .the ratchet or pawl need replacing. Some replacement parts such as the pawl are made of soft metal and it is better to weld them up with good rod and dress them back to shape with a file. If the teeth on the ratchet gear are worn off and rounded they are easily dressed to a proper shape with a single cut triangular mill file. This is good to do because some of the replacement ones are rather soft and should be replaces with good old originals that have been fixed. Also a helper coil spring can be attached at the hand lever.

On an historical note the single cut mill file is known as a Bastard file because of the direction of the cutting teeth as shown in the third picture. In British Heraldry the royalty wore sashes over their left shoulder drooping to the right as it covered their hearts thus showing royal blood. Anyone not of royal blood had to wear a sash going from their right shoulder down to the left thus not covering their heart and thusly showing them to be a bastard.

So be careful when purchasing a tie. One of my English aunts always sent me ties with Bastard stripes for my birthday presents and for Christmas too. Was she trying to tell me something ?

There is more information that requires more pictures so I will post a continuation under this one. "Fast Frank of old "






adjustments and points of wear






points of wear



Bastard file


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Albert Belling on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 11:08 pm:

Thanks guys I know I can fix it now. Frank I was shown what a bastard is back in 1957 when in high school. Also old and have a speedster


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris from Long Beach, CA on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 11:18 pm:

Aha you thought you caught me didn't you. You thought that I got the part about the Bastard file all wrong. Actually it is when the file is turned over that the stripes go from the upper left down to the lower right when cutting and that's the bastard cut. The picture of a future king and his bride is correct.

Royalty







Enough about bastards lets get get on with the adjustments continued from my post above.

I mentioned that a coil spring could be attached to the brake lever mechanism to add extra tension. Here is a picture of how to attach the extra spring. at the lower end of the handle. If you brake lever pin is sitting in a wobbled out hole and the handle moves back and forth without changing the linkages the fix is to use a taper reamer and fasten it using a taper pin set in place with a hammer



spring


I mentioned that the pawl may require attention. here is a picture of a worn pawl that is solid original and not a replacement one made of soft bent iron. It was welded up and dressed with a single cut mill bastard file. I just had to say that.


worn pawl


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William Hoffer on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 07:20 am:

Tapered pins are a good way to fasten an assembly, particularly if you are in a hurry as on an assembly line. It can be difficult to tell the two ends apart if they have been trimmed close, though.

After fighting with tapered pins on several ancient automobiles, I have made it a practice to engrave a plus sign on the big end after installation. Hopefully the next guy will get the message and drive them out from the small end.

Cheers, Bill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robin Pharis on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 01:45 pm:

The neutral adjustment bolt on the parking cam needs to be a little tighter so it won't back off into neutral when you put your foot on the pedal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robin Pharis on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 01:46 pm:

The neutral adjustment bolt on the parking cam needs to be a little tighter so it won't back off into neutral when you put your foot on the pedal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 05:17 pm:

My experience in the past causes the brake lever to move back when you depress the pedal from high into neutral or low. The usual cause is the parking brake rods adjusted too long. To fix this condition, take out the clevis pins and push the parking brake lever all the way forward. Then adjust the rods so that when you push the rod all the back toward the rear wheel you can put the pin in without force or without bending the rod. Next step is to try the parking brake and if it pulls to one side, tighten the opposite rod 1/2 turn. Do this one half turn at a time until both wheels stop at the same time when you pull back on the lever. Note, you might find that the neutral position is slightly forward of the handle straight up, but you should still have a neutral. If you don't have a neutral, something is bent usually the cross shaft.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 05:25 pm:

The spring in the handle grip and the ratchet and pawl should be enough to keep the lever in place when the brake rods are adjusted properly. Fix those three items.

Relying on the parking brake shaft cam and the clutch bolt to keep the lever in place is Mickey Mouse…..


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