What should the clearance be when taking up rods?
Also, what do you torq the rod bolts to?
1.5 thou at 35lbs of toque on the rod bolts
Is there a table or listing somewhere of all engine nut and bolt torque values? I dint find anything in the T1.
Wrist pin bolts
No there isn't a chart.
Head bolts about 45-50 FP and re check several times after
Rear axle nut about 100-120 FP
Wrist pin tight then cotter pin
Pan bolts tighten, never have worried about a torque value, same with most the other nuts and bolts on the outside
I use Ford tools so never really have worried about torque values. (when I first put a head back on I use a torque wrench, sometimes)
In the era the length of the wrench set the torque. So if the Ford sold wrench is say 10-12" long, the amount of force an average person could pull on it till it stopped turning without getting over zealous is the torque for that fitting. Even today if you buy your normal everyday wrench set, they come in different lengths. Even at that, a 4" wrench can still twist off or break a 1/4" bolt, so a lot is by feel.
Here is a generic torque table based on fastener size and grade. Note that the main table values are for dry fasteners.
Since Ford was not grading bolts in the '20s, I would torque to a grade 1 or 2.
I'm wondering why the Vendors haven't been able to put together a Recommended Torque Value chart for the T hobbyists ???
I would think that putting together a list, send it out to all the engine builders/machinists for review and come up with a good workable consensus ???
I would think it would be a good project for somebody more knowledgeable than myself.
Not a professional rebuilder but with a good number of years experience, the bolts I set torque on are:
Rods - in steps 25 then 35 after checking or replacing the nuts and bolts. (I've heard 25, 30 and 35 and some of the bolts I've seen were visibly stretched.)
Mains - in steps 35 then 50 after checking condition of the threads. (I've heard 45 - 55 from others)
Flywheel - 60
Head - In steps from 35 up to 50 or 55 after checking threads and clearing any garbage out of the bottom of the holes. Bolts should fit snug to the head when the head is on without a gasket. If they stand proud of the head they are too long - the head or block may have been milled. If you need to shorten a head bolt, shorten them all the same amount so you don't need to remember which is which.
I too would be interested to hear what the paid pros use in these instances.