About a year ago my runabout was getting hard to start, so I installed a new set of Autolite 3095 plugs. Problem solved. For awhile. But it gradually returned, with more and more cranking needed for a cold start. So today I replaced the 3095's with four of those Champion X plugs I finished Sunday. Now I'm back to easy cold starts. One choke, one pull, and it's running. Warmed up, one easy pull on BAT gets it going. We'll see how long this lasts.
Sounds like your plugs foul up. What about a hotter range 3095, if they make them?
Why the devil do these issues face you Steve? I hope this gets put to rest for you! :-)
The "Champ" 25's in my 24 Runabout have been cleaned once in the last 20 years and they still go. Very nicely. Dizzy setup.
And I don't like "Champ" plugs but it's what I had.
The "new" "Champ" X's in my 18 might need a cleaning. Well, one of them anyway. I think. Stock setup.
I have never had great life out of new Champions or Autolite spark plugs in any engine. I suspect the metallurgy of the plugs is different from other brands (Bosch, NGK, Motorcraft, AC) that have longer lifetimes. My experience in all engines has been that weaker ignition systems start (and sometimes run) better on Champion/Autolite plugs, but the gaps erode faster than some of the other brands I mentioned. But it would figure that softer metals tend to be more conductive than harder ones. I would tend to take a hard look at the ignition system itself to make sure its output is sufficient for starting the car. Too bad they don't manufacture a double platinum non-resistor 1" NPT plug to fit Model T engines.
The story goes that every Model T is a little different than another. I have 3 and each one starts and runs a little different.
I guess I've gotten use to it. Occasionally my 21 gets a hard to start fit but after I readjust the carb I can get it going. Most of the time.
I wonder if your T would have easily started if you had used 3095's. From what you've been posting I bet it would have started.
I have a 54 Ford NAA tractor that had a occasionally miss that I could never figure out. All the electrical, plugs, gaps and etc were checked over and over. I just kept driving it and got use to it.
I was about to pull the head and get a valve job and decided to try another distributor cap. I had already replaced it 2-3 times but this time the miss went away and the old tractor runs smooth as silk! I have no idea what I did differently.
What about the gasoline you have in it? This stuff we get now goes bad in a month. Also additives are changed for winter and summer, and I think they change alcohol percentages as well. In some states, you can buy non alcohol premium which might help! You don't need the anti knock octane, just the pure gas!
Steve, could you please use a larger point size on your distinctive typeface? I'm needing a magnifying glass to read your posts on my "telephone". Thank you.
(I used to drive a '79 Toyota Pickup with the 20R engine in it. Went for smoog check and it would miss just about when it was to pass the idle test. Folks on this forum answered the question--plug wires had to be routed just so, and parallel to each other as the factory did them; miss went away! Apparently just a little crossing over each other caused the miss!
Now to figure out why my refrigerator isn't freezing--and yes, the fan is working! Gonna have to eat all the ice cream! (OK truth, I do have another 'fridge in the garage and have moved all that stuff to it, I couldn't eat ALL that Ice Cream at once!)
Steve - I agree with those that say that every Model T is different and that they don't all run the same, but the alternating "hard start, easy start" thing, THAT really is strange! If I didn't know better, and with all the different things you've tried, by now, I guess I'd maybe suspect something like "borderline" compression, like p.s.i. somewhere in the low 20 psi area, but didn't you and Mike Bender just recently rebuilt that engine? Yeah, it sure is a mystery,.....harold
I had this with my '27 Tudor because I hadn't learned to correctly use the carb needle adjustment. Plugs got so bad the first time it happened it wouldn't start at all. I learned the hard way. If you're going thru plugs you've probably got some agonizin' reaprasials about your driving (spark lever & carb needle adj.) habits.
The fuel had nothing to do with the hard starting. I changed the plugs from Autolite 3095 to CXhampion X and the car became easy to start. I didn't change the gas.
Rich, the problem with my typeface is your phone. Here's how it looks on a desktop:
Maybe I should use this size for folks who have "smart" phones.
What's you plug gap set at ??.... same for the other plugs in the past ?
I guess you misunderstood my comment. My intent was that maybe you SHOULD change your gas because it may be what is causing the plug problem! Sorry to have upset you, I'll leave now! 42 years as a professional mechanic, own two T's
Had this myself. Personally I think the carbon is settling into the porcelain and not even heating my plugs to orange can get rid of it.. Made the mistake of cleaning my plugs with a wire brush once, the metal streaks were visible in the porcelain when heated.
Bob, I've been using the same gap for all of them, between .025" and .030".
WD, You're right, I misunderstood. Maybe it is the gas causing the plug problem. If that's the case, I expect the gas will do the same to the new plugs. You didn't upset me in the slightest. And even if you had, it would be no reason to leave.