Ran rough, some back firing, some coil issues, oil leaks. A lot of oil coming from the rivet on the right side of the oil pan by the magneto and flywheel. I have fuel, electrical and plumbing problems. Anybody have a check list on where to start first? Can you stop a rivet leak without disassembling the entire engine? Iím using a New Day timer, got to check the wiring, timing, carb?
This won't all apply to a bare chassis, but most of it will: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG93.html.
RTV might stop the rivet oil leak
The firing order is 1243. Remember the camshaft turns counterclockwise (opposite the engine rotation)
Hey Steve, that article is really cool, I think that will help a lot, this is a chassis I bought which had been sitting for many years, I had to do a lot but not a long block rebuild. They are a problem when there are multiple systems causing the problem.
Les, would you use rtv on the outside or pull off the hogshead to get at the rivets from the inside? I have never used it, is it a silicone product? The leak is on the rivet on the right oil pan mount. Was it originally braised?
I would only use it on the outside!! I probably would consider it to be a temporary repair, while you sort out the other problems. For a more permanent repair, probably something like JB weld or a similar epoxy type product, but again I would only use it externally. Originally the rivets were brazed as needed
Thanks Les, I will use a cleaner on the area the next few days and get the oil residue off and see what happens. It is always something.
Not only were the rivets brazed, but if you see a pan that's been sandblasted there will be brass splattered all over it in different places.
I would clean real well and coat with JB weld or something similar.
Cleaned motor mounts and rivets on both sides of oil pan, applied jb weld and filled with epoxy weld. Letting it dry overnight. Found a problem with my brand new New Day Timer, spring failed in the rotating contact and firing intermittently. Checked wiring, have my fingers crossed. Fixed fuel leaks.
Sounds like the normal new restoration bugs, you must "endeavor to persevere".
Love that movie! You donít expect to have a problem like that with a new part. I put a new Anderson timer on,hopefully that solves the issue. I still need to figure out what happened to the spring in the contact.
Don't tell us the leak wass on the passenger's side of the pan... ? :-)
Joe, you might be surprised how long the JB Weld lasts on the pan! If you cleaned and roughed the surface half good enough, it'll prob'ly outlast us.
I cleaned and used acrylic latex caulk! 20 years ago on the 19 engine here and it's still holding the oil inside.
The 18 here came to me with a new fangled dry brush type timer and the spring is so blinking strong, the cover will not fit without wiggling around.
I dug in my new stash and used an old roller timer. Works good.
One thing at a time to sort out, yes?
I'm happy to hear you are making some progress.
Brendan, did you have a rivet leak on one of your cars?
Iíll bring those tee handles to Iola for you, will you be in the same spot this year?
Success, runs good with the Anderson timer and tuned right up with the carburetor adjustment. Still chasing down oil leaks but I am winning. This chassis is for a 1910 Racer and is built of all kinds of parts. Thanks for the advise.
Yes I will be in the same spot at Iola E-1,E-3.
Yep I had a leak in the pan of my 16 and still working on it.
Joe, I used a ballpoint pen spring to repair my original New Day. Been in there for 5 years now and runs good.
I have a used New Day contact, they seem stronger than a ball point spring. The one I took out was completely compressed. Could not even spring out the contact. I was worried about an electrical short breaking the spring?