Bought a nice klaxon aoooga horn for my 27. This is an 8c, BATTERY horn that works.
I had it connected to my horn switch with no results, thinking the switch was corroded and bad... But then I checked my terminal strip. Currently, the horn wire leading to the button is connected to terminal 1, the yellow and black generator wire. This was the same as Ron's wiring diagram. However the more I think about it, shouldn't it be connected to 3, the yellow battery wire? Or am I wrong?
Ron's diagram is correct for the T battery horn. I wired my aoooga off the battery main terminal. Is your horn one or two wires? If it's single wire, make sure it has a good ground or is grounded to the chassis.
Mines a 2 wire. I ran a wire to the frame, sanded the area, and other is connected to the horn button. I'll try switching the terminal to the battery main.
Starting to think my brand new horn wires are bad... Tried it with the switch. Nothing. Removed the switch and touched the wires together. Nothing. Removed the horn and got new gaskets, oiled, etc. Tried the horn button. Nothing. Directly to the battery. AOOOOOOOGA. Touched the two horn wires together. Nothing. Twisted them together and touched a ground wire to a wire brushed area of the frame. Nothing.... Sounds to me like that horn wire is the culprit. I'll try to bypass it or something now.
They are! Got some other wires and connected it, horn is loud and clear. Got a multimeter and checked both horn wires. Nothing. No continuity.
Guess I'll be getting some new ones...
I think a Klaxon-type horn takes a huge amount of power to run, too. Mine needs the battery to either be fresh off charge or the engine running to make much noise at all.
T battery horn draws only 5 amp nominal and as such typical Ford factory horn wire was 16 gauge. I for sure would use 14 gauge wire to and from the horn and to the horn button keeping all wires short as practical to reduce overall wiring resistance. Put the source as pin 1 on the barrier strip or your ammeter will read the horn drain as "charge" current rather than discharge current but also wiring to pin 1 would give the highest voltage when the engine is running to make your horn strong and loud since the typical generator output voltage will be about 7V while the battery would be about 6.5 or so when taken from the battery at least until the battery was fully charged when it would then approach 7V same as the generator. Wired to pin 1 the horn operate current would register as "discharge" as it should.
Thanks John for the explanation on the terminals.
Got some new rubber coated (I know I know...) Wire from the parts store, 14 gauge. Hooked it all up with my button and it's all working now. Connected to terminal 1. Reads discharge.
All good now everyone. Can't believe not one, but TWO of the new vendor sold horn wires were bad...will stick with my working rubber coated modern stuff for now since I know it works.
Another T with a happy Klaxon!
While on the subject of Model T and Model A horns, Why is there a paper gasket on the Klaxon but none on the T? Just wondering.